Marky
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Posts posted by Marky
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A downpipe will not cost you $700
Option A) Gut cat as per example above
Option B) Keep an eye out for a second hand one
Depends on how much time you have to kill
Option A is the cheaper one ($free) and will net some gain, option B costs money but will have a better result
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Check engine light should come on, then turn off after a couple seconds yes
What year / generation is it out of?
Might be as simple as TPS being mis-aligned or something? Does it do it super consistently or only at full noise - like if you creep it up at half throttle does it still hang, or what
Hard to diagnose but if you get the CE light to go it probably will tell you what the issue is. Does sound like something sensor related
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(it's my understanding that if the lights are orange then its not a major problem and the car can be used, if they are red then its another story).
I'm sorry wut
I wouldn't work with that theory, for what it's worth
As for unrelated fault codes, as said a reasonably common and exasperating issue in new vehicles
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You'll only -only- get that if you have a ****ty, leaking BOV (or one set far too soft if adjustable)
They are supposed to seal at idle and in vacuum
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There is 0 point whatsoever in swapping out the perfectly good late model BOV for an aftermarket one doing the exact same thing, the factory subaru one on V5 onwards is very effective and no benefit to exchanging it for something else
However if you do want venty wooshy noises then yes you need to blank off the return hose. The ecu "upset" is pretty minor to be fair, majority of the time you can't pick anything at all. and the momentary rich condition from air being vented is only for a split second - the ECU cuts fuel on nil throttle anyway
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If someone gets a run of cheap fascia plates made up to just fit a normal 1-2 din stereo for these cars they'll make a packet because good god it seems like hard work
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Small chance it's the bov having a slight leak - almost all piston-type ones will simply cause you can't make brass on ali a perfect seal
Might be the afm being dirty
Might be old spark plugs
Might be something not tightened up right on reinstall (like intake hose - pressurised and not)
Might be the fuel pump being sad
Did you ever find out why the old motor went pop?
You mates one could be a number of things. First suggestion is go back to whoever did the tune, also they are very touchy around airflow meter adaptors and the way it flows through them - simply changing the angle of it or putting a new bend before or after it can mess with it
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Define "fairly stock"
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Just roll with it. Chances of the WOF man picking up on it are slim to none
Worst case if you do get pinged, you weld one in later
If pipe proves to be fally aparty, you has consumerer guarantees act
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A dozen different things could be at fault
Could be spark failing - try new plugs or even simply gapping yours closer to rule that out
What is modified on them? Are they stock cars or do they have a half dozen changes?
Ignore the air fuel gauge
Have you plugged a scanner into them
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You'll be in a minority here in NZ
There's nothing, at all, wrong with a "built" turbo. I don't know why you'd be against it unless it's purely for the internet brand name shopping list? You'll be spending double to get the same result, but it's your money I guess
Ditto for keeping stock location. It restricts you when you could get better results with a simple cut & weld
Flex fuel is brilliant, not sure why you don't trust it... That said I know a lot of people who don't trust fuel injection or ABS either so there's that
Remember, don't believe everything you read on the internet - especially when it comes to someone trying to either a) sell or b) justify the purchase of a certain part. Just because something is branded doesn't mean it's the best
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^ Meanwhile workmates are going "Is that a drug thing?" "Yeah must be a drug thing, the yoof these days are all about them drugs"
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Let pickapart guide you
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If you join the breathers together, you're effectively halving the breathing... room?
I've seen plenty of people give grief on RFB setups where both breathers tee together to a single inlet on a catch can
No idea if there's any substance behind that mind you
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Or not spend the GDP of a small nation and go to murch?
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Boost might rise a bit, might not. Other than that no, no problems
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Nah that's pretty normal (ish) for them, it does vary a couple psi between cars
I wouldn't go higher than that, especially on an otherwise stock car
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What's your question exactly?
Will it make 17psi? Yes
Should it? Probably
Is it safe? I'm dubious
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A spring is a piece of metal with a certain length and tension on it
The brand name on it means zip zero nada
A set of second hand kings will net the same result as a set of still in the wrapper STi springs, if they are the same length and stiffness
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Fitted my mates BOV to my TT legacy, not as many chu chu noises as hopped for even on full atmospheric. Oh well, fun while it lasted. Back to stock tomorrow. Also keen to do a catch can install cause i'm getting some smoke on gear changes. Anyone know best way to deal with the three(?) breathers going into one or two ports on a catch can
A catch can won't fix your car smoking
The BOV being quiet is likely due to the "hose 10" Tee off setup they have stock
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That car placed quite well in the superlap seriesor at least the rounds it did run
https://www.hpacademy.com/blog/how-much-more-power-can-you-make-on-e85/
They still have it (well ben and andre do) in queenstown where they have the HP Academy working out of Queenstown
Got featured in NZPC a wee while ago too if I could find it. Really nicely done car
Also have done a 1UZ into one recently too
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Yes, many people
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Everyone's opinion on blow off valve tuning ?
in Engine Related
Posted · Edited by Joker
I'm a fan of this technique myself
[video=youtube;3pbUMXZvfi8]