Marky
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Posts posted by Marky
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Yeah just buy a tactrix cable and faff about with that
Those throttle controllers are like an s-afc in that while they do work exactly as described, these days there are more effective options available
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Would you say it's almost like a stone being shaken in a tin can? And only when full throttle?
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Insurance is well wise to the "just a named driver" thing, and I have heard of cases where the insurer went "okay so, when's the last time you actually drove the vehicle? Oh never? Okay no payout for you."
If you can afford 30k of car and you're still living at home, you can afford to do things properly. It's all good to hope it's fine until you rear end a range rover and find they decline the claim
They are also well aware that regardless of what your warranty says about it, a straight pipe is an obvious modification. Just play it safe man
On that note, crashed mine the other morning
On the plus side, my excess is less than what I was going to pay to get the front end resprayed so there's a silver lining to it
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18 hours ago, Marky said:
They have a normal coil over strut setup right?
Chamberlains springs in chch will make whatever to suit
Simple
Literally if you give them a size and shape and spring rate they will make it
Yes I quoted me
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They have a normal coil over strut setup right?
Chamberlains springs in chch will make whatever to suit
Simple
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https://www.cobbtuning.com/highest-horsepower-stock-ecu-subaru-of-all-time/
Its sort of a how long is a piece of string question
Everyone has their preferences, some are happy to work around the stock ecu and others prefer the blank slate of a link etc
Theres not much the stock ecu can't do that a link can, but the way to do it can be a bit of a headache compared to a standalone
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Or look at it this way
8k is enough difference that he can replace every single moving part on the car with nice bits, and have something improved in every way other than what the odo shows
Just look for the bargain, bushes are cheap, struts are cheap, and it's a Subaru so the motor could assplode at any given moment anyway. It might look like a low km minter however it might have done 50 thou city kms rowing the gears as opposed to 150 thou of country roads in 6th
Put it this way - when I'm buying a car for the mrs, or the mum in law, we shop for low kms as that's what their mindset is, and overall how mint is it as they dont want to touch a thing. When I'm shopping for me, I buy with the intent that I'm replacing anything I don't like and parts that are perfectly functional anyway, I look at it as something to build on not a static showpiece which won't change. The mrs wants the opposite and hence we buy cars with warranty etc for her - I legitimately enjoy working on stuff so buy the fixer upper on purpose... then invariably sell it for profit
Youll do what you do. My dad always sold cars at 99km because he hated that mental leap to 3 figures. Some folks will ignore the moving parts entirely and only care about a small shopping ding as an indicator of a cars condition - everyone has their eye on something different and everyone's standards vary
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For arguments sake - almost double the cost, to get a few less kms and different wheels?
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But st the same time... 12000 for a 20 year old car with 150kms?
Shop smarter New Zealand
Just buy like this
https://www.trademe.co.nz/1306268758
Or similar
cheap, looks the part, post 2000 so yearly wofs and reflashable ecu
facelift it to v8 spec if you can't stand the butterface effect
done
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What is it exactly that you want, and what's your budget
Thats a long way from a v9 sedan
If it were me I'd pay half that for a stocker or earlier model and work from there, that car looks a bit of a mishmash of big spending combined with half arsed stuff
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Could you run remove the internal flapper, and have a pipe run down beside the downpipe to where there's room to fit a gate upside down - effectively the same as the internal just bigger
Ive done it, just not on a suby
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I'm not trying to sound like a dick but I don't think you really know what you want?
Go drive some cars, make up your mind what you ebpven want to do with it. A v8 sti is far more capable than a v10 wrx.... but the v10 is a totally different looking car inside and out and you might be more keen on that aspect?
If you just want to go fast go buy the cheapest v7 you can find and go nuts, if you just want bragging rights of a newer model then go drive the different options of that shape... Do you have daydreams of a weekend track car, e-fame from something that gets all the #likes, do you want to make a show car, are you spending an hour in traffic a day, are you more keen on meremere every Friday?
You can test drive a car, get it looked over by the by the best mechanic around, they still can't tell you if it has spent it's life getting daily 8k cold launches or if it's just been putting to the shops.
No warranty = always a gamble, and if it's this sort of car you have to accept it is guaranteed to have had a much harder life than most on the road. It's a pretty massive $ investment for someone I'm guessing is pretty young so get what you really want, not the halfway there option
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1 hour ago, pedro said:
Good luck with your search for an STI.
Unmodified cars can be thrashed and suffer owner neglect.
Modified cars can be very loved and cared for.
People make up all sorts of S*** when they are trying to sell cars..
Exactly
Pre purchase might tell you something you've missed, it also might miss something vital and leave you with a false sense of security
If you're planning to do it up, buy one already done up and save yourself some coin, or buy a dirt cheap neglected project to refurbish - no point buying a mint stocker to then spend several grand more on doing the basic modifications everyone else does anyway
If you're planning to leave it unmolested, buy from a dealer with a comprehensive warranty (double points if you get it pre modified with that same warranty, then you have some wiggle room for fiddling)
And ignore the "reason for sale" - people sell cars because a) they need the money (house, travel etc) b) they want to buy something better/different, or c) there's an issue and they want to flick it. Private sale is always buyer beware no matter how trustworthy they may seem. Except me I'm like totes legit babes
Oh my strongest bit of advice is try driving a few other options - don't just get your heart set on this one model and look for the best example you can - you might drive something different and go oh hory sheeit this is way more "me". Please see: a million examples of import owners turning V8 or what have you. My workmate had his heart set on his dream car - he got it (R32 with 25DET) - 3 weeks later he's swapped for a 180sx
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22 minutes ago, Subru said:
wow it knocks on 95? I didnt know that...How bad is the knock because I use a Z card and they only have 95. Could a tune adjust for it?
Yes it can and it'd be advisable to do sooner not later. It will hurt power a bit but it's better than hurting the motor more
For what it's worth I've been seeing those go for a few grand less quite often these days - that's almost paying dealer prices for a private sale
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stereotype of old legacy:
labrador in boot (well, a lab sized collie / shepherd cross)
gold wheels because subaru
bonnet raised on Saturday morning 😂
Reason: Surges when cold for a minute and missfire on high boost, cleaning the afm improved it slightly but plugs were the next bet
I wonder if this could be the reason... I mean I'm no expert but call it a hunch
J
Joys of buying a 15 year old car for $1500
On the plus side it was $1500 so I can't complain all that much
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Submarine spares in Chch made one, think they used it themselves? Wouldn't be a tricky job if you could be arsed with getting a shell in from Canadia eh
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20 minutes ago, newsuba said:
... and
get rid ofsell thestupidJDM as f*ck earthing kit to some clown on eBayYou're full of great ideas
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1 hour ago, les666 said:
So part 2 of yesterday now didn't go too well... got the exhaust removed got the mid pipe and muffler all mounted. Go to fit the catless 2.5" down pipes and they foul on the transmission sump. Had to return it all back to how it was as it is booked in for a wheel alignment today. Part of me wants to just sell them and part of me reckons my half assed welding skills could make it work...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProJust decat the primary pipe for $free and flick the big ones
They don't make *that* much difference and the money from selling them would pay for a TD05 and manfold
Just sayin
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Bought a car knowing it had this issue... now not sure how to fix
Short version - the dash gauges play silly buggers. The fuel gauge will periodically give up, and drop from wherever it is to 0 over about 45 sec, then perk back up. Temp does the same, and the rev counter has just once decided to just read 0 while the motor was running.
Where should I start - is this likely to be a dash cluster issue or earth related? Alternator looks to have been already replaced, and it has one of those stupid Japanese earthing kits from battery neg to anything unboltsble
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Installed a sweet buckie ow
And cleaned the AFM element
Before
After
Oh and did the hose ten thing
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Weird. Tho if it thinks there's a fault then it'll be in limp mode I guess
Legitimately have you tried turning it off and on again? Sometimes a reset (battery off or that bastard method with the plugs) makes it happy again
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It isn't normally the sensor itself, it's normally a fault with that low boost and the car being a vague piece of S*** at telling you what the problem is. When you say low boost describe what it's doing, does it still switch over?
Best place to get a new one is pickapart, if you wear a pair of boots capable of fitting one down them, the part is $free I heard through a mate
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Title is clickbait
Now I get a bit of grief from workmates for going through cars faster than socks, at least I did till one of them followed suit and started doing the same with the rfb crowd. Basically buying anything underpriced, fixing it up or adding a few cheap things (set of alloys or minor paint work etc), getting a new wof and moving it on, or doing swapz ow for something a bit better. It's well worth the trouble, tho it can confuse the neighbours a bit
Do you see a car as a commodity to be bought and sold, something to make money from (like property, but on a smaller scale), or do you see it as something to pour cash into and make it just like the one you always daydreamed about and keep it forever?
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On the plus side, my excess is less than what I was going to pay to get the front end resprayed so there's a silver lining to it
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Electronic Throttle controllers - Thoughts?
in Engine Related
Posted
Oh I meant DIY'ing the tune stuff, not paying someone for it.
Easy to just wing it when you have a 2k car to blow up... not so much a 20k one at risk