Marky
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Posts posted by Marky
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Etune is an economy tune from Japan, run them a bit leaner than the standard gt to get better milage for the average punter. Knocky as f**k
Hers had the same ECU tune as my not-an-etune does (well, did). I think it was maybe a trim package or something foolish
OP - any legacy with less than 3l or a turbo is underpowered, half the reason they get a bad rap for economy
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40k of travel per year on highways and you need a big boot
I'd look at falcon/commodore sized stuff
Same economy and power and you get fatboy seating for extra comfort
Legacies aren't very big and with that sort of use you'll devalue the hell out of it in no time, subarus are not known for their resale value
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Can you up line pressures and stuff with remaps on these?
I did it on my airtrek and it made it the first auto I was really happy with
That was before I drove anything dual clutch mind you, pops and bangs on upshift FTW
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An auto BH wagon, regardless of km's I wouldn't pay more than 4k
If it has a blown turbo then it hasn't been treated right regardless of what the odo says
Still dont know what E-Tune actually means, mrs's old one was an etune, mine isn't, they were both identical
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Sell it and buy manual
Converting is about as smart as putting a V8 into a V6 commodore
You spend twice what it's worth, it's still worth the exact same afterwards, and it's never *quite* as good as a proper one anyway
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Just seems low I guess to suggest they can't get there when a poxy old TD05-16g can do it happily
I am far from an expert, sorry to derail the thread OP
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http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?35708-Boon-s-2001-STI
That's close-ish surely (the first dyno chart, a VF34 with bolt ons and top mount)
231 to 240 is pretty close
Like 96.25% of the way there
That's pretty close in my books
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To be fair couldn't the stock turbo get 240ish wkw pretty happily with a couple more bolt ons and a reflash?
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There's nothing wrong with them, what are you paying for it though - also blown turbo at 100km is a significant worry if that is in fact the issue
Unless it's dirt cheap just wait for a BP5 turbo, they're a nicer car overall and can be had for quite cheap if you're happy to go auto or high kms
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Best I get launch control working then
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You could stick to driving exclusively downhill maybe?
Don't spend a cent on it
Save the cash, buy a decent base later
V7/V8 WRX's are coming down in price massively these days, you can keep the late-ish model aspect and even the wrx will crack 200wkw with minor normal mods
Plan the long game - all of us have been there with wanting to make something slow fast - it's a fools errand and the $$ you pour in will never, ever come back
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SweEt poddi bruu
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Well it's burning oil somewhere
Sounds like it's in the intake
Either a) one or the other turbos is pushing oil out
or b) the motor is pushing it into the intake
Or c) I don't know but a puff of smoke is not a normal startup condition in a 15 year old car
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Check engine light on = limp mode so complete loss of power
Could be a dozen things sorry. Airflow meter is common on the earlier revisions, not so much this one, but still need to get a scanner tool on it to tell you what the problem is, whatever is wrong the car knows about it
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Yeah, definately better than the older. Makes half a bar @ 3k and awake outright at 4 or so - needs shorter legs though cause 4k in second is 50k
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I wouldn't bother
You'll spend $1500 on something which won't add any more value to the car, half the new owners wont care anyway. Yes it's due to be done, but to be honest it's already a pretty cheap car as it is. The belts don't just go "bang" at 100,000km, it's a recommended interval - for arguments' sake hemi the boyracers' car which spends half it's life at 5000rpm will have a more worn out belt etc at 60,000km than nana's one at 160,000km does.
The check engine light is a far bigger thing to sort from my POV in terms of "reasons people wouldn't buy it". They are taking your word the problem is minor, and most people wouldn't trust it (I wouldn't). The 02 sensor could be a $50 fix to be fair
I'd say don't change it, be prepared to knock $500 off the price as a goodwill thing maybe if they bring it up
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Going semi retard (you never go full)
Redid intercooler pipes to have a proper Y junction and 2" pipes off both churbros, locked it in parallel with no intercooler valvey thing at all, much success, drives good.
Nek step is see about putting V7 rom or ECU in it so I can have all the fun/stupid stuff people have made for them
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What do you mean it ran sweet for a day
What exactly have you done to it, at the moment I could list a dozen maybes
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Ok so it says air temp sensor is the problem
You replaced it and it's still the problem
Weird, must be wiring
Is this a problem which started after you fiddled with it, or is it something which has just happened out of nowhere
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I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.
This is how I would pick them:
Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual
Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto
Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual
A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto
Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual
Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.
The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.
other non turbos are just hacks.
That's basically all there is to it, I drive a different flavour of these things almost daily at the moment it seems
Auto box negates the differences between the 3.0 and 2.0 in stock form (absorbs the turbo lag, dulls the n/a response) and they put identical power to the wheels
The 2 and 2.5 n/a motors are dogs, they make the car feel like a 1.8 BMW, just underpowered
2.5 turbo is my pick for a daily / all rounder, just feels strong everywhere and still has the headroom to make a heap more if you want it too - shame they costs more moneys is all
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More advance makes things sound betterer, angrier
Until it makes that pingpingping noise anyway
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Oh, well that's confusing. It's like my tyres are 215/45 but theyre like 50 profile with 80psi in them
Ok I haven't tried that but you get it
OP, best thing for you is tuning the thing, what you have already is enough to grenade the motor anyway. FMIC?
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BP Legacy Manual Conversion
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Autos *can* be more responsive than a human hand can be, try driving one of the DSG euros for an example
To be fair on most cars the flappy paddle tiptronic stuff is a waste of time, even if it reacts fast it still drives better left to make its' own decisions
If you're having to click the thing through gears yourself it sort of defeats the purpose of buying an auto in the first place doesnt it