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Marky

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Posts posted by Marky

  1. So basically you just want the noise

    Anything you do going to un-equal length will be less ideal than equal, just accept that and make your choice

    So it's up to you if it's worth spending hundreds to go backwards (hundreds? over a thousand? I dunno)

    Plenty of people spend thousands in search of the right look with no regard to practicality, so I say do what you want. I choose air filters based on the sort of sucky noise they make so I can't judge :D

    Hell you could just swap the whole manifold and turbo setup to a VFwhatever and an old RS legacy exhaust manifold for ultimate old school boxer noise if you wanted

    Maybe you should have listened when you bought it and gone "wait, that's not the noise I want" and not bought it

    Personally I like the EL sound, the boxer noise is pretty bogan these days and EL sounds mint when it's doing loud boosty things

  2. a) drive them both and make a decision, I like the 2.5 far more but either is a rocket of a daily to be fair

    b) get one with a warranty

    c) thrash constantly with no worry about reliability issues

    If track work required buy a sh!tty old GC and tow it with the new car to avoid b) and c) being voided

  3.  Andy_Mac said:
    You talking with stock STI downpipe? probably would. More than 180kw is rare for the Legacy's even with proper full exhausts and all the rest, but seems not too hard for the STI's, aren't the STI ones bellmouth from factory too. Would have problems connecting a STI turbo to the intercooler. Nothing some random silicone pieces won't solve though.

    See where I'm going with that

    Would a more suitable upgrade be the option of maybe STi turbo, downpipe and intercooler, rather than trying to eke the last little bit from the legacy turbo instead?

    I have no idea if that's a simple job but I imagine it'd be a very effective one surely, especially for the cost involved (like, the same as a downpipe alone ish?)

  4. Maybe I need to reword a little too

    What's the simplest lego-partsbin way to make a 2.5 turbo motor

    - Do I need any specific heads to suit the V7 style manifold my car has (I have no idea what interchanges)

    - Are there any better or worse cams I should look towards acquiring, AVCS isn't an option, or is it not worth worrying about for dem gainz you get (considered against likelihood of me effing something up)

    - WRX rods, EJ257 pistons, stock crank, cross fingers, ???, profit?

    Plan would be twin something-small-and-identical and yes, still run sequential - unless parallel turns out to work good then ok sure I'd do that

    Would like to stick with twin purely for the sake of having inlet pipe and downpipes to suit it already, and seeing how well it *can* work tuned right, and

    Plan B is just bolt on to existing 2L as per A_J_T and enjoy zututu

  5. So, IF my car doesn't sell, at some point said car is going to need a new motor

    Call me a sucker for punishment, but I have a half assed daydream idea of building a budgo spec 2.5 motor and keeping it twin

    Thoughts:

    A) IDGAF about big power level (To me this is more than 230wkw-ish), car is a daily which will never see a drag strip, and nothing more exciting than daily fangs onto an onramp.

    B) I'm not spending large on a super tough forged motor, reasons being a) why and b) I don't want to, I'd rather buy the RS4 I dream about instead

    C) I like easy driving motors, like a car which feels strong with normal use, not just full throttle above 4k

    Ideas:

    A) Existing setup in all regards, other than more capacity. Turbos will be the chokepoint with this, but it'd be a starting point?

    B) As above but bumping up to something more suitable - TD04's, VFsomethinglittles, T25's, whatever - keep twin turbo arrangement purely as an F-U Internet gesture

    C) Just put a 20G or single what-have-you on and stop making life difficult

    It's more the "what's the best way to do this" question or more to the point the "you're an idiot" angle

    Alternative to all the above is just put in a mad short RA spec gearbox and help it do things easier. Second gear stretches to 105kmh so the thing is handicapped to begin with

  6. Fuel pressure is a safeguard and easy to work with, "if pressure = below 30psi then cut" for arguments' sake (or "if pressure = less than 40psi below manifold psi? or whatever)

    Wideband you have to actually pay attention to, by the time you notice and do the mental maths, the damage is done

  7. I'm always happy to get free help / sorry I mean, teach people stuff

    Seafoam is good stuff, just buy the stuff from supercheap not the double-price version Subaru sell, works a treat and does no harm. Also useful for fumigating the neighbourhood

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