tebbyj
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Posts posted by tebbyj
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My boss imports cars from befoward all the time, they usually need some minor work, most commonly brakes, rear shocks (from being strapped down) and tires. He's only had one that needed a new lower rad support panel because it was bent. To be honest if you compare prices to what you can get here your only saving 1-1.5k for cars less than 10k and you have to wait 3 months, and you really don't know what your getting.
Carwebs is another website thats quite good, they give you a guarantee on compliance, all though their bidding process isn't great.
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When i did mine on the wynns transflush machine i had 8L total and had a little left after the fact, so id say about 7-7.5L. If your just draining the pan it'll be about 4-5L id say.
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I would say Coolant temp Sensor, Get a scan tool put on it and check the output, they aren't expensive but can be a prick to get to.
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Aftermarket vs genuine is the age old question. I have seen the good/bad side of both.
With Genuine parts you know the quality will be there but your going to most likely pay a premium for it, although its not as bad as it used to be.
With aftermarket it really depends on brand theres a lot of cheap copies out there to be wary of but for the likes of Tridon, Gates, GMC etc. these are all good known brands that often supply oem parts anyway.
So its not a case of OEM vs Aftermarket its more a case of making sure good quality parts being used.
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I would be leaning towards either a fairly blocked radiator or a very small headgasket fail.
$750 is basically pull the heads off, chuck new gaskets on, throw the heads back on. Probably not cracktesting the heads or anything like that.
Agree with this, if your going to all the trouble better to pay a little extra and get the heads tested and skimmed at the same time. Otherwise it might just blow again.
Its not very expensive just run then down to your local engine re-conditioners when there off.
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It sounds to me like you aren't getting enough flow through the radiator. To test this next time you go up the gorge put the heater on full bore, non-recirc and see if that manages to hold them temp down. When you do this the heater core acts like a 2nd mini radiator helping to keep things cool.
Seeing as it started happening just after you got the cambelt done, I would be taking it back to speedtech and getting them to check and replace the thermostat (just because its new doesn't mean its not faulty, have had several faulty units out the box), the waterpump (could be faulty or incorrectly installed) and that the fans are working on both low and high speed when they should. Also if nothing comes apparent there get the radiator checked as well. Make sure its not blocked up.
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I like it a lot, its the whole package of all the latest(ish) tech with the gramps body, was a good watch.
Remember that they weren't going for all out track car here, it was a car that can be used everyday, is easy to drive, and do 1/4 mile in 11sec and thats what it does, and well. I especially like the climate control, boost control, body control all in one unit.
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Not getting spark?
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Thought I'd bring this back and post here.
So have been pretty unsuccessful on installing the front struts. I'm assuming something must be bent from having the car sitting with no struts in it because the hub is a good 30cm or more when jacked up from being able to fit the strut in over the axle etc. I tried jacking the hub down and it started cambering out at the top with still 20cm or so before the strut could even fit...
Any insight's or anyone willing to give me a hand or a look would be seriously much appreciated.
Cheers
Glad to hear your getting it back on the road man,
With the struts you'll have to feed the top in 1st get that loosely bolted then put a fair bit of weight on the hub to get it low enough to get the strut in. Usually its a bit of a mish, You'll find that because its been sitting on the ground the bushes have settled at the new super low height so will require some persuasion.
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So if they are in series then wouldn't you say that if you plug just one in then absolutly nothing would happen?
I know with mine if i do just the passenger one and turn the ign on it cycles the fans and does all the ticking and clicking and what not. So that would indicate its doing its diagnostic thing as it should without needing both. Comes up quite often on US based sites where they talk about only needing one set for flashing
You'll probably find that the ones on your drivers side are plugged in already, and your just using your passenger ones. When I found my passenger ones they were already plugged in.
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From what i've read the BP/BLs have 2 sets of green connectors, both of which have to be plugged together to re-flash. One in the passenger footwell as well as the drivers?
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I NEED Those Wheels...
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From a mechanics POV they are pretty good, Engines can use a bit of oil. Bottom ball joints and wheel bearings are things to look out for. But on the whole they are pretty dam good reliability wise, have a friend running one at 336ks and still going strong.
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Could be any number of things but most likely not the flywheel. Symptoms would be a lot worse if it was. I would say its probably the exhaust.. thats the cause of 75% or rattles
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Have a look here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402
If you have a dig through there you'll find some helpful stuff.
They use a 20pin DIN cable which runs from the HU to the amp under the passenger seat. Then you have your basic 4 doors plus sub outputs from the amp. These then split in the doors to the individual speakers. Might be easier to run the wiring from the amp back up to the factory wiring loom in the dash, then a separate wire for the sub rather than running all new wiring.
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Umbrellas, a pocket knife, an usher CD, parking pass for the Country Hotel, Batteries, a ratchet tie down thing. Found a Bra strap in one.
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As previously mentioned the Lineartronic CVT doesn't come in until abit later, and mainly on Impreza's until the really new stuff. Even then they are alot more reliable than the previous generations of CVTs.
As for the NZ new vs Jap import. You get the good and the bad with both. Jap cars have been used on amazingly smooth roads so suspension tends to have less wear, but they tend to view cars as throw away items so unless youve got someone who has looked after their car, chances are its been thrashed. NZ new youll get a service history (I hope, in the KM range your looking at) most likely a 1 owner car (thats what id go for)and more likely looked after.
The best thing to do (when buying any 2nd hand car)is not tie yourself down by saying I won't buy an import etc. Stay open for anything and thats where you'll get the best deals. And always drive a range of cars with and see which one you like best.
This is coming from a guy who went for a browse around the yards one saturday and drove an 03 GTB home....
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Have you checked your rear-demist doesn't have a broken element? there was a service bulletin Subaru did which outlined the problem. My old WRX used to get terrible reception, both with factory and aftermarket units. I brought this aerial from the warehouse:
http://www.americanhifi.co.nz/antenna_amp.html
Which did help a little (without the amp part connected as this made it worse)
My NZ new BP wagon has brilliant radio reception, cant fault it even living in hilly Wellington, out performs any previous aftermarket unit i've had in any car.
On the aftermarket front, definitely go alpine. Better sound and much better user interface in my experience.
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Good thread on NASIOC:
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I havent used them personally but being a mechanic have seen many cars come through that they have stuffed up/ missed things on/ put the wrong filter on which has fallen off and then cooked the motor (twice). \
REMEMBER, they don't SERVICE your car, they just change the oil & filter. Other things like a fluids check, drive-belt and brake pad check, Underbody inspection, battery level check and test etc are not done. Your much better off going to a local garage and getting a proper service done, might cost a bit more but then you know a mechanic has cast an eye over it.
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Ill give it a crack, as long as its not linked through fbook or anythng coz i dont have those lol
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If you want any info on wiring in new speakers/amps for any subaru stereo look here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402
If you just want to replace the speakers I would think that any with roughly the same wattage at that resistance would be okay.
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I used the multitrax oil in my old WRXs as it was recommended in the owners manual. Was pretty good, even cleared up some slow syncro's i had. Its what they use at the stealership so it'll be what my GTB will have in it now as well (50k service done at armstrong by pervious owner) still nothing bad to say about it here.
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Brake pad has worn unevenly, its not uncommon. You've probably got a stuck slider. Best thing to do would be to rip them off put in new pads, free up and lube the caliper sliders also make sure the piston is free.
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V7 with V8 looks
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I have seen someone do a V7 to a V10 swap on a STI hatchback, Was an accident damaged car and rather than replace with stock bits went for the newer look, and was cool because i don't think the V10s came out with an STI hatch? i don't know if any fab work was involved but i cant imagine it would be much going from V7 to V8.