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marc

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Posts posted by marc

  1. There was a thread about them on here somewhere from memory... (try have a search)

    Ive used them on other peoples cars anyway and havent had any issues, Just dont overlighten the bottom donut flange & they sit quite low so not ideal for super low car... other then that sweet. Have quite a nice tone with bit of boxer down low and mid range but more one tone up top.

    Value for money def not bad as you cant get anything else new for under 500 ish that I know of and thats less then half!!! All day you get what you pay for but not a bad little upgrade I say

  2. @ Matthewscl. Youl have to do yourself at your cost before what it states in your policy (95K kms or whatever) or itl void your claim validity if it snaps due to not being replaced aka car not maintained properly etc

    Dont know why your mechanic/workshop suggestd it should have been done in 2009 when its only at 77kms and its not a 20yr old vehicle lol...

    Im sure some1 can clarify this further for you tho :). Thats just my understanding of how 95% of mechanical warrantys work..

  3. Convert to top feed rails and run the 565cc's if you want the best out of a possum link drivability and power wise at the same time.

    The 440cc's will run out of fuel at 210wkw ish if you plan to keep the AFR's safe. 565cc's should do you about 230-235 safely.

    As pretty much mentioned by Koom, I ran HKS 740cc on a possum link and it was ok too. However my idle was a tad average but still went ok. Stopped at 230wkw as my tuner said it wasnt happy nor safe on any more boost/power due to the ECU's resolution nd no proper IAT sensor. Thats why I say 565's as youl still have good drivability etc and reach the safty limit of a possum link. All day people push more with possum links but I wouldnt want to be the one frying an expensive motor by pusing an ecu past what it was really intended for. Well thats just my input :)

  4.  mr_people said:

    @ Qraf, in the loom you need to switch the crankshaft position sensor with the camshaft position sensor (cos we are putting jap ecu in nz new car)

    yeah im thinking as both are j2 coded, there wont be much of a difference.

    some guy also told me the typr r copue is just a 2 door type ra sti without roof vent and rear doors..

    really?

    Yes thats about right (STI RA vs Type R)

  5.  Phewsion said:

    Yeh apparently he was just gonna cut it off where the Y pipe joins in to 1 pipe, and weld a new mid pipe on to the end that bolts up to Down pipe from TM Auction

    $540 for that lol????

    Yeah downpipe will give the most increse due to flow from removal of the cat converter and extra flow from a nice wastegate entry... not hitting a flat flange then making its way out the tail pipe!

  6.  Phewsion said:

    Pitstop quoted me $540 for the mid pipe thingy :P

    He even rang his supplier and they don't make them for my car so he was gonna get in a 83-94 one and modify it or something

    Worst case I'll just stick with the front pipe from Subtech and sort out the rest later

    its the Y pipe at the back thats killing you $ wise with the mid pipe, a early one will require quite alot of mod to fit nicely..

  7.  sultan said:

    won't be going unfortunately. the cert is done but no warrant :(

    AHHH WAT???!! ill be there. cuda brought my subaru stickerd helmet for ya too :D lol. Im not keen enough to race tho as ive got a 6 hour trip to Gisborne tomoro for a few days ::). just dodge the sticker month...easy lol. wouldnt condone that usualy but they hardly check and its not a public road event!

  8. fitted new fuel pump, turned into a stupid mission that resulted doing the job twice! Watch out for them "turbine design" intank pumps, got caught off guard with their opps forgot to mention that in the original instruction manual lol

    Purge port on the Aeromotive Stealth series pumps gets blocked by the factory rubber grommet at the base and wala ran mint for 10mins then stopped and wouldnt make pressure = cut and fix cradle :D

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