marc

ive done a v7 to v9 conversion before, not as stright forward as 1 might think but not that bad at all juat bit of mucking round go get it to sit perfect. My wiring was abit more then the "easyist bit" lol as I did it on a RA and they dont have HID lights only single bulb H4 bulbs!!!!! btw as stated in the orig post "bolt on" its not quite bolt on there IS welding and cutting involved lol.

once a bearing lets go the cranks screwd anyway as far as im concerned and most subaru bilders ive talkd to.. They get scratched up easier because yes they are harder, Genuine shells are softer so tend to "imbed" the forign material in the shell rather then scratch or mark the shell/crank then spit it out. So yeah depends what your doing i spoze and how good u service it oil and filter quality and things like new oill cooler after rebuild ect.

Thats what it comes down to really. but on the whats better its really hard to say as there is no SOLID proof. (like 2 identical motors run on engine dynos in a room at the same time one acl one genuine nw that wud be interesting) Using brand new cranks and rods+ oil pupm nd sht so no1 can blame lol. Ive been using ACL Race for a while now and never had issues. Tolerances and oil flow+ oil type makes the world of difference when it comes to bearings! Btw my motor gets a fair bit of s*** and on 20psi with a Garrett attached too!.

+1 they do

100% it. 7 on has a brather pipe next to where the two halvs of the block meet near the rear. (exactly where that pipe of yours is pointing

Well question said BELLHOUSING not BELLHOUSING BOLT HOLSES lol so technically the bellhousings are different but yes the bolt holes and positioning are the same lol. : nicley covered now ;D

the bellhousing goes all the way past the front dif and is very different on the 6spd. If your just refering to the exact bolt up bit of the bellhousing they pretty similar. might of taken your question a little different to others tho..?

Thats basicly it. ive done a good few. bit annoying at first trying to get the olive onto the hose inner but with non teflon inner sleeved braided hose its stright forward. I assume some1 bent your oil pipe trying to remove the turbo before taking out the feed bolt into the head then thats y it was bent. All single scroll up pipes are the same .

nope.

Better find good hose and clamps that can take around 100psi of pressure and hot oil and WONT come off the bits of stright smooth steel pipe theyr clamped onto. If not I think i have a steel oil feed line off a V3 STI that had a VF23 that should fit perfect. The oil feed on the head is in the same place on all the versions so wont matter about that...

What sizes are on the front vs the rear why yr worryd?

+1. if it happend stright away basicly or close to take it back. Its THEIR problem!

+1 , 3rd got stuck in mine!! Ver 6 STI sedan.

It cant really include all the stuff or hed be working for free lol ???. haha all good id do pump too or ul be back there at 130-140k lol

correct about the climate lol and yes soes play a part un required oil I agree. Only time will tell but then you cant necessarly blame the oil because it popd lol

as KOOM said yeah with a BRAND new 0kms NEW motor (not rebuilt) and then up to what ever theyr warenteed to from new?? id probably be more inclined to run a thiner oil but how many of us havr thoes lol??! :

Edge 10-60 is all i run all day every day and motor gets a hard life with no issues. STI actually makes a sports oil & guess what it is 10w60. thats enough for me to validate my choice lol and hasnt let me down yet.

So nothing is on the top of yr gate and it can breathe ae? tha box should say the spring pressure on the side? have a look then u know to blame the spring or look at other posible causes.

Thru the factory controller and all is 1.1bar so 16psi

Haha all gud man, always fun tryna fix shit without seeing it lol. Yea let me know lol and I bet 28 went well lol!! (poor motor

+1 I prefer to remove lol, Can catch and re use buy not worth it if yr spendn on decent parts and new pump

haha all good, im sure it will all fall into place when you look at it .

"Cambelt, tensioner, adjustable idler, both flat idlers, the toothed idler and a crank seal. All for $345 - $395, depending on early/late etc. And a waterpump kit is available too, waterpump and gasket with thermostat and gasket for $99. Both plus GST, and all genuine Subaru parts." Sill guna end up 500 ish for all the parts and yeah as above definitly the way to go. I can do them (in aucks) if u get stuck

yeah was guna say u looking at about 500-550 inc a water pump and all the stuff in that auction (parts $$). in saying that most shops total I have delt with is round the $950-1100 for the complete job on a subaru doing everythng not just the belt itself. Labor wise g your cheep GNEDEF lol , does the car start after lol jks spencer

they are most likely more ports for selection of where u wanted to locate your boost in line. U should have gotten mor then one bug with yr gate?? I havet got photographic memory but from the few MVS gates ive done ALLL the bottom ports bar ONE that yr hose fitting goes into lol. would say post up a pic or two but thats prol a mish?? but from the above u should be able to check and sort it. Or even just put a hose onto that bottom hose fitting and then blow into it and see if it leaks back out thoes threaded ports left down the bottom. 5 min job