marc
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Posts posted by marc
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A mate of mine had his Accord Euro R stolen by a 12 and 14 year old under instruction from their mother, as they are too young to goto jail. Until the judges step up and start handing out significant sentances to the idiots involved all the police will be doing is catching the same idiots again and again. Another thing that pisses me off is when they try to use being drunk as an excuse for their crimes, s*** if you can\'t handle your piss and commit crimes while drunk you should be banned from drinking for life.
all day, this countrys justice system is well.... :
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Gatherd bit for the suby :
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Some people can\'t see the sense in spending money on "upgraded" parts where the limits of the originals aren\'t going to be reached anyway.
/quote]
Completely agree its pretty much what I did.
lol says it all hahaha. The simple point I was trying to make but gave up debating on here
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Yea I thought the taper on the V8 sti rods was the difference to the V7 sti rods but only from web reading so after confirmation. So the JDM V7 one is sti or non? the cap looks weaker on the V7 one as opposed to the V8 sti in pic.
Yeah taper is the main difference and yes the bigend cap design varys from years from what ive seen and doesnt seem to be any weaker at all. Visually looking at somthing espesh in 2D doesnt tell you much.
V7 JDM in pic is same as our V7 STI. Theyr ither STI or not over here.
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Dont worry mate not trying to win anyones vote
lol. If I removed them doesnt make them look any different to the picture hence my little recap explanation? Look at the picture and you will see the 8 rods are different to the 7 going by what i said at the bottom of the image. & JDM v7 in the pic is same as V7 STI yes. In NZ the "JDM" stuf is the same as WRX non sti. -
It sure does snow ball and aids the getting carryd away I agree....
evowrx do a quick search on google there will be lots of pictures to see the difference. Im not saying its not a good idea, it probably is but gota draw a line where to stop. Sometimes good genough is just that... good enough
Edit:
Left is Ver8 STI on rod, next is as labled, then the next is V1-6 wrx/sti and legacy etc (common rod) and yeah ignore the RH for this topic of learning lol
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yep and not like 257 pistons are floating round everywhere for people to put in open decks anyway and then who\'s to say piston to bore clearance will be within spec hence me saying that block mentioned was a good budged minded block with not a bad build concept for mild torquey 250wkw ish ..
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lol internet has abit to teach. There are several types of rods but the main difference is bolt vs stud and nut and they handle power a lot differently. You don\'t see the v7 STI on rods leaving the block often really unless something is majorly wrong!. Not going to debate the topic but bore size also affects the factory 2.5 piston strength from experience and cant comment on FACT for material content but from what ive seen (not from behind my keyboard) they don\'t seem to hold up quite like the 2.0 pistons do.
The ver 8 pistons will take the power if tuned perfect but you get abit of det in there and bye bye hence the forged give you abit of leeway if you get a bad batch of gas etc..
WHAT IM SAYING IS forged pistons with stock V7 sti on rods in a opend deck 2.5 with deck supports fitted is not a bad idea for a mild build with some reliability!
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family man is selling a fully forged 2.5 for 2k cheap cheap
/quote]
2.5 - V7 sti shot peened rods though...why even bother with aftermarket forged pistons if using stock rods imo.
Do cdb have smaller oil gallerys or web myth?
Cus the 2.5 pistons dont like 260wkw and the v7 sti rods do
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and your pistons and rods should/will be fine espesh by the part # you have posted and 2.0L off the shelf pistons are just really that...
Hope that helps
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What about making the ODB more reliable by inserting plates? I\'ve been told that you can machine recesses into the deck\'s and then pressure fit plates to strengthen the bores?
So if money is an issue, I guess there\'s only really a couple of options to make a strong reliable bottom end, 1. get hold of a cheap CDB and reuse my existing internals, won\'t be rear thrust crank unfortunately however how much of a difference is there between rear and center thrust cranks?
2. get hold of a Semi CDB which has a rear thrust crank however I\'d then need to buy new rods/pistons as my p1 rods/pistons won\'t work from what I\'ve been told.
Thoughts?
Cheers for everyone\'s help, its been awesome!
Yes you can close deck the open deck 2L you have but thats a serious waste of $ as youl be no better off then a closed deck block thatd cost u 1/10th of the cost to close your open.
1. Yes not a bad option and still will make a good shortblock but its not the centre vs rear thats better as such its just that the rear allows you the later cranks which have a better oiling design and surface treatment allowing improvement to the reliability of your bearings aka engine
.2. If your not going to rear the CDB in my option id go this way aka Semi closed block with ver8 crank then re use your pistons and rods. Then dowell that but if your in the money for dowelling midas well do the R/T coversion and go closed deck as wont be that much extra to do at the same time by the same people.
Future note tho I personaly wouldnt push a semi closed past 350wkw for reliability but thats a sh*t load of power for most. Mind you you will struggle to get a 2.0L much past that without NOS anyway
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Dowelling is good but thats not your weak point being open deck so kind of pointless. I would reccomend dowelling you CDB or semi closed if you like to aid reliability at that power.
As for sleeves midas well just go closed deck instead of wasting money on a open deck with sleeves that will cost u 15 closed deck blocks?
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52mm with the exception of some N/A stuff
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that only applies in the NA/USA world bro. I have a brand new set of that exact part num sittin on the shelf for my Ver 8 block.
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You can also do a 2.1 build as you mentioned and use a late model 2.5 heat treated crank with stroker pin height pistons. Still would want to convert CDB to R/T ither way if it was mine. Then you midas well sell your shortblock as it would be a waste if you were only taking rods out for the sake of saving $600 odd :
.Ither setup would make a nice tough 2.0/2.1L engine. Theres other options out there depending on your budget just do a search on here and im sure youl find alternative shortblock build options. All depends on what you want from the car and how deep your pocket is...
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why do you need to replace rods???
Nah line bore has nothing to do with the bolts fitting its just what the added torque setting can do to your main tunnel clearences and strightness so pays to check it torqued up with bearings and no crank etc and go from there.
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Nothing wrong with running stock case bolts. ARP are direct fit but always pays to check the tunnel and main clearences after if you intend on using higher torque specs.
Rear thurst conversion isant too badly priced if you get some1 thats done then befor to do it. (tang slot on #3 and mill number 5 to accept R/T bearing shells then use whole R/T bearing kit)
Ver 8 crank would be the way to got but pretty hard to find and usually cost abit.
you can use your rods and pistons and just bore to suit your 0.5mm over
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Got car back from Gary tonight. Not tuned yet as I need to fix some exhaust leaks and steering rack is leaking >=( man a 3" straight pipe is fuking loud!!! Can\'t hear myself think lol let alone the music lol drives fine and goes quite well for just 9psi. Plumb back wastegate so no dickhead gate noise
fixing it up and sending back in a couple weeks fingers crossedGlad that engine is running, told you she was a minter just down to your install
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duno what hook ups u guys got lol but just the STI 230mm clutch cover costs me over gud bit over 300 inclusive thru winger with discount. 225mm stuff is cheep as genuine but not the 230mm stuff well the covers anyway :-\
got 196kw on 10psi pretty happy with it
need another now
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Custom cold air intake for v7 sti
in Engine Related
Posted
isint that just bits of intercooler piping ?
That was a custom one I had fabricated for my ver 8 STI. Probably the only pod id run on an AFM\'d car without stressing. I later on removed the AFM adaptor that sits between the turbo intake pipe under the manifold and this to replace it with stright pipe due to running onboard MAP Autronic ecu.