AdamOst
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Posts posted by AdamOst
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Where should i hook into for the illumination wire on one of those genome/defi control boxes. Just any acc power?
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Ok well ill see how some new pads (mintex/endless/ebc) and see what i can do about ducting some air in the guards, through the spotlight covers or something. I was using penrite SIN fluid last time which is good enough i think.
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http://www.endless-sport.co.nz/Products/agentType/View/PropertyID/454.aspx
I assume this is the one im wanting?
MIght have to give them a call tomorrow.
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Whos a good retailer for endless?
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Ok so leaving everything stock and getting endless/EBC pads shoudl sort it out then?
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Yeah over braking was an issue a couple of times, I thought an aftermarket rotor might be a bit stronger too, and the grooves of the znolli helping with heat dissipation.
Fit Endless pads
....They wont fade on you 
Silicone carbide technology!) Bendix are rubbishI didnt get brake fade, the pad disappeared completely.
http://iforce.co.nz/i/zklb3u42.2pc.jpg
Thats one of the fronts that came off the side that cracked the rotor, im assuming the rotor just cheese grated it.
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i put brand new oem rotors on it 5000kms ago, so i guess ill have to go to an aftermarket oen like znollei or whatever? Im fine with going to an aftermarket rotor, but if its going to do the same thing again..
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So, since my brakes dicked out at hampton downs I guess I need ot start saving for an upgrade of some sort. What do people recommend? These are what I assume are my options for a daily driver/occasional track car. Car has no major performance mods and probably wont be, at most ill be aiming for the generic upgrade path to ~200wkw or so, and not sure if ill run semi slicks.
Am I right in my thinking here?
Option 1) upgrade to the brembos
Pros: 330mm, seem to do the job pretty well with having the much larger brakes. Potentially not having to go to aftermarket rotors
Cons: will need ot buy new wheels as well to clear the calipers. Expensive and a bit more work with having to swap hubs etc
$11-1300 for the rotors/calipers etc then maybe another couple hundred to get the hubs from the v7 wrx to match my diff and still fit them. Will still need to sort brake pads as well.
Option 2) stick with bendix ultimates/some track specific pad on stock size rotors.
Pros: Cheaper. Keep current wheels
Cons: Having to buy new pads/rotors every 2-3 trackdays.
Option 3: Aftermarket rotors/pads.
Pros: Not having to swap hubs/calipers, reaosnably cost effective.
Cons: Not sure if ill still have the same issues as option 2.
What do people think?
I currently have the stock 294mm 4 pots with bendix ultimates on the front, and 276 single pots on the back with HD bendix pads. got 2.5 trackdays and ~5000kms road usage before cracking the front rotor which i replaced when i bought the car, and destroying both front and rear pads. I had no real issues with the braking performance of the car, just that it ate through the brakes a lto quicker than I expected.
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Oops, missed your post.
Nah its fine as far as im aware, it was his daily driver work car, hes looking at getting an x3 or something for the family car and has a v8 mx5 for track duties so doesnt need it.
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All very good points. I would have no problem purchasing a V9 STI, however there are not many around and they seem to be fairly closely priced to the eagle eye which i quite like the look of.
/quote]
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/impreza/auction-507376617.htm
Oh hay, that seems ot be my old bosses car.
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$110 for the single rotor from subtech, I didnt do any shopping around as I needed some asap, last time I bought from them though I got a pair for ~165 I think.
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Got the cracked rotor and pads off, this is what the pads looked like on that side with a used OEM pad for comparison. THey were bendix ultimates
New rotor all shiny and not cracked
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Not quite as scary as Big Ends, but annoying all the same. 6 month old rotors as well, although this is the third trackday ive done on them.
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Yes to worth buying for cooling or yes to bling? (or yes to cooling plus bling ha)
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Do those zerosports intercooler splitter/radiator shrouds do much to help cooling and worthwhile purchase or just more of a bling thing. Do attend a few trackdays a year.
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So I was wondering why my boost gauge wasnt working, thought maybe it was on the wrong vacuum line. Checked the power going into it and it seemed ok, till i pulled the case apart for the contorller and saw this. Second pin on the left should be there for ground.
Fixable? maybe manually solder the wires to the board? THe others are pretty loose too. If so it would be easier than having to pull everything out to get a refund form the seller.
If so is there anyone around the shore/auckland whos pro enough to do it for me.
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I\'m sure they look at me sideways when a young-ish (ok almost 30) guy comes in wearing a hoody etc and starts hunting around the irrigation section
Should ask them where they keep the heat lamps and extraction fans for lawls
pro tip: the adjustable drip feed things make for a fantastic sub $1 boost controller in a pinch haha
I did just this, also young in a hoody. Had to buy a 20pack of nuts to fit the bolt I had, only could find m5 ones in my box of bits, not m4. 85c for the T piece, I assume it doesnt matter that the openeings of the T piece of bigger than the openeing of the sensor, as long as it fits the air tube?
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Stanced and bagged cars are equally as retarded. Ive never understood the stretched tyre look, it looks retarded and cant be overly safe to drive on. If you cant afford to fit the correct size tyres on the car, dont run such a retarded ride height, or get thinner rims.
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Why do tuners hate v6's :< Looking at similar power increases in the future and its a pain having to buy a link as well instead of just tuning the factory ecu.
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Sweet, might be able to finish installing this Genome controller/gauge this weekend then.
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Would there be something suitable at bunnings/mitre 10/plumbing store as well or is a repco/SCA/mag and turbo purchase.
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Yeah I might just have to buy a pack of 10 or so, would be usefull to have spares I guess. Annoyingly I have a bolt that nearly screws into the front of the intercooler, but its slightly too small. I guess it was a 12mm bolt and a 14mm hole.
Is the T piece between the sensor/vacuum line a special bit or universal?
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small question that doesnt really need a thread, the boost gauge/holder i bought is missing one of the nuts that holds it to the mounting bracket, is there a place I can go to get a single hexnut, around 3mm? also a boly to bolt the sensor to the intercooler, something like 12 or 14mm? And also I assume I need ot get some sort to T piece to connect the tube.
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LOL at people who dont like bagged cars, that probrably havent owned one to know anything about them haha go ahead and say."I wouldnt own one anyway". Of course you would. !
jokes. Each to their own.Yeah, pretty sure id pass on owning an airbagged car, it just seems so pointless plus I dont like the look at all. Each to their own.
....They wont fade on you 
Silicone carbide technology!) Bendix are rubbish
jokes. Each to their own.
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Dumb Question Thread!
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Where is this "lights" wire? Im tapping into my HU wires for the others, but my HU has no illimination wire hooked up.