nismovzr2003
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Posts posted by nismovzr2003
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Is there anything wrong with using Girodisc rebuild/seal kits? Or stick with genuine brembo stuff?
What about using subarugeniuneparts.com? Genuine brembo/subaru rebuild kits are around 91us plus shipping?
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Hey guys,
In need of some new V7 STI Brembo outter boot/seals.
Can someone point me in the right direction to where I need to head?
BNT most likely I assume?
Are there part numbers I need to be aware of?
Anyone know what they're worth?
Thanks heaps
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out of curiosity does anyone know what the difference between these 2 wheel spacer adapters are apart from the price....
http://www.scarles.co.nz/shop-online/wheel-products/wheel-spacers-5x100-to-5x114-3-12x1-25-25mm-pair
for the life of me I cannot see any difference except price, and if so why the price difference?
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I don't like using spacers due to forces seen especially when they change the pcd on the wheel from 5x 100 to 5 x 114.3. It has to add a lot more force on the wheel bearing etc which are not exactly strong on the 5x100 model.
If you are running them they may need certing I would look into this if I were you as I'm not sure.
My wheels on gc8 too. But highly modified now lots cut away.
yep would need certing, any thing over a 10mm slip on spacer requires certification and going larger rims also i believe. I'm only assuming rims as they are different to the specified size for that make/model and mine are listed on the cert plate
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is there any issues with running this type of setup on the track?
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Doing something similar on my coupe haha. Flares+ 245 should fit with ease, you'll have to cut into the fender a little depending on how you want it to fit
Heaps of info over at Nasioc, The sites down so I can't link right now but there's a big topic in there somewhere with diy fender install write up and discussion
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427863&page=9
awesome cheers buddy, much appreciated!
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Inner well clearance shouldn't be an issue if you use conversion spacers as your an inch further away from the factory inner guards, suspension etc. I wouldn't track it that way but street should be fine. You will definitely need flares with the 18 x 8.5 rims basically same offset as old rims but effectively running 18x 9.5 if you take spacer into account.
I would say you would be fine with flares but personally haven't done iT.
whats the issue with running it like that on the track?
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According to one of the online wheel calcs, running a 245 40 R18 on a 18x8.5 the wheel will sit 14.7mm closer to the strut in comparison to a 225 45 R17 on a 17x7.5 rim, however using a 25mm spacer will solve that problem. I roughly worked out the wheel should sit 48-49mm further out than the factory wheel arch, does this sound right?
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apologies, 17x7.5 - +53 offset, 18x8.5 - +55 offest. Adding into the equation 25mm wheel spacers/adapters.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
I'm currently running 17x7.5 rims with 225 45 R17 tyres on my 98 GC8 V4 Coupe.
Is anyone aware of, or have run into any issues going to a 18x8.5 with a 245 40 R18 tyre?
The rolling circumference is 57mm different between the 2 tyres, 10mm different in static rolling radius.
I'm looking to fit 25mm wheel spacers that convert the 5x100 stud pattern to 5x114.3 and install flares.
Has many done this, if so any dramas, i.e. scrubbing, limited turning radius, etc.
Any feed back greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
I'm currently running a 5 speed clutch setup on my 6 speed box; Exedy/Cusco (Blue) front cover with a full face carbon kevlar sprung disc, with approximately 2800lb clamp load.
I've had no issues what so ever with it slipping, however I find it's really juddery when engaging 1st or reverse from stationary. The clamping load use to be 4200lb but had it reduced hoping it would get rid of the "on/off" type engagement. It's been checked several times by different clutch businesses to ensure the pressure plate and flywheel are true and no one has found any issues with the clutch assembly.
I'll be running somewhere in the vicinity of 300-330wkw and was wondering what 6 speed clutch setups people were using?
I see in one of the other posts individuals mentioning the Drew's Automotive clutch setups, are these decent enough products? And if so, will it stand up to the task of the required power output and occasional track type work?
Really after something that's got smoother engagement. I understand having a heavy duty or performance clutch setup may not allow this however, surely there must be something I can do?
Regarding clutch disc, whats better, full face or 6 puk?
Any thoughts, ideas, previous experience would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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Anyone know much about Snail Turbo or Kinugawa? Any history with their products? Quality?
Interested in their 11 blade design comp wheels. Both companies produce a direct 11 blade replacement for the GT & GTX 3076R. Is it worth the coin upgrading from a standard type 6 blade design?
Turbine housing's, looking into their 0.82AR instead of buying genuine Garrett as they're very pricey.
Any thoughts, info, knowledge welcome
cheers.
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Pic's will have to wait until end of the year unfortunately when I'm back in NZ!
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Most Likely Dtech for tuning. It's a 2.1.
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Hey guys,
I've recently had my Garrett GT3082R rebuilt into a GT3076R with ceramic bearings through Tony @ Dtech and Steve Murch due to the original comp wheel getting damaged.
Going with a smaller wheel and the bearing upgrade will net better response, just wondering what thoughts are with changing the existing .63 exhaust housing to a .82?
The original GT3082R (without ceramic bearings) saw 320wkw with supporting mods, I'm hoping the newly finished GT3076R with ceramic bearings should see around the 300wkw?
If I was to change exhaust housings from the .63 to the .82, surely this wouldn't be any more less responsive/laggy than the original GT3082R?
Please bare in mind the newly finished turbo is not installed as yet and therefore I haven't been able to compare dyno sheets against the previous GT3082R. I'm simply trying to to see if changing exhaust housings is something I should look into to net more power without sacrificing too much response.
Thought, ideas greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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Hey guys,
Just after some info regarding the 08-09 STI hatch, I see there's a lot of the 2L option around what about the 2.5's?
Are both the the 2L and 2.5L AVCS and twin scroll?
Was there any other years the hatch was made, excluding the other variants that came out with tiptronic/paddle shift?
Any info would be great including any personal reviews from owners.
Cheers
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When people install surge tanks is it wise to remove the internal pump an change to a proper lift pump? I'm running a DW300 intank pump and wondering if this would run to hot as there's no resistance against the flow to the surge tank and could possibly **** itself at some stage.
Any advise or thoughts appreciated.
Cheers
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If there is enough room (there should be?) you could use Speedflow tube adapters that will adapt 5/16 tube to -6AN male (part #618-06-05) and then use the Teflon AN fittings from there. Or remove the hatch and get some -6AN male fittings brazed on to the inlet and outlet pipes.
Not a bad idea Tony!
Cheers
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Hey guys,
Just a quick query,
How and what are people doing to attach teflon braided hose to the hard lines coming out of the top of the main fuel tank ( the fuel pump assemble top sealing plate)?
Cheers
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Just a big + wire, then a short ground to a well prepared ground in the boot.
The factory ground connection just goes to the chassis/body anyway.
35mm welding cable is a good option, as it's double insulated compared to audio stuff.
If you're going to do it properly you should really have a big fuse or circuit breaker at the battery as well - I'd go with something like a 250A resettable breaker - a lot of people don't bother, but electrical fires suck balls.
Where's a good place to get a 250A resettleable breaker from? Jay Car?
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Ultra Racing Subaru GC8 Fender Brace Install
in Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
Hey guys,
In the process of installing Ultra Racing 3 point Fender Braces on my V4 GC8. The 2 mounting points near the 'A' pillar that mount onto the door hinge bolts fit perfectly, trying to work out how the front mounting pointing bolts to the chasis.
It comes with bolts and lock nuts but there's no way to access the upper chasis rail as theres no access points.
Has anyone installed these, and if so how did you get around mouting the 3rd attachment point to the chasis.
Cheers