nismovzr2003

Use existing pcv or is there an alternative? U've said to 'T' into the existing crank breather line between the engine an catch can, if its 'T' in will the pcv have any affect? Surely the vacuum and positive pressure will simply bypass the pcv as the line between the engine an catch can is still available?

How easy is it to convert my existing vent to atmosphere catch can so the crank case breather operates via a pcv?

Wondering if its worth while upgrading to a gtx series core and front cover. How would the 3071 or 3076 perform in comparison to the gt3082? If i was to rebuild mine with new comp wheel, ceramic bearings, etc would i be looking at similar money?

*good*

Yes will the turbo should be an easy fix. What damage has it done to the engine is what I'm more concerned about. Whats a could means of contacting Steve Murch other than by phone?

How has the foam filter caused it? This filter has run on this turbo for 20-30,000 km with no problems previously. I have heard that a lot of people dont recommend using foam type filters, because they can break down over time and get sucked into the turbo, however as i said the filter is not damaged. Cheers

HKS foam filter. No idea how it happened, havent lost power suddenly. Have recently had engine rebuilt and tuned, has been running amazingly since then. Took filter off this morning as I had some wiring to install underneath the intake pipe / filter area and saw that eye sore.

Apart from something entering through the front of the compressor cover, is there any other situations that would cause serious damage to the comp wheel? http://s850.photobucket.com/user/Aaron_McLean/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150315_115713_zpsnpp5tzy3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 I have always run my turbo with a filter, filter is not damaged so I'm trying to work what has caused this damage. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

cheers for the awesome write up. im currently running -10 lines from the cam breathers an crankcase into a custom catch can, am im going to have any issues with this setup?

yeah, but thought i could mod my existing catch can, however probably cheaper to buy a new catch can than one of these lol

what about having one of these that could mount into the top of a catch can? That way u eliminate any emissions being vented to atmosphere but still collect the contaminated oil? Thoughts?

Whats the basis of these? Do they eliminate the need for a catch can? I assume two of the inputs are for crank case and cam breathers, these pass through the air/oil separator and the outlet goes back into the inlet? Anyone used one or know how effective they are? Worth replacing catch can setup with one? Whats the go with the emission laws at the moment, are catch cans vented to atmosphere being ruled out? If so, would the air/oil separator be a feasible alternative? Cheers

Rodger, can the single one be tapped into to run a secondary gauge at the same time as the dash water temp gauge is hooked up?

would the 3 wire 5v 150 psi pressure sender that i listed in my previous post from eBay work correctly? Cheers

Really? This one is part of the unit installed when the car was first produced from my understanding. What were u using as a replacement sensor? Cheers

Would something like this work? http://m.ebay.com/itm/321667404719?nav=SEARCH Cheers

Hey guys, Just a quick query regarding the two water temp sensors plumbed into the ali crossover pipe under the inlet manifold, the one closet to the drivers side head, is this for the dash water temp gauge, and the one to the right of it for the ecu? If so, the one to the left for the dash, can this be tapped into for an aftermarket gauge instead of having to plumb in an additional sensor? Cheers

Hey guys, I have the white series Lamco gauge set in my V4 sti type r, however I seem to be having issues with the oil pressure gauge. I've done some basic fault finding, theres definitely power to the sensor and gauge and the sensor wire between the gauge and sensor is intact. I'm making the assumption that the sensor could be faulty? Has anyone had any issues with theres? If it is sensor related is there anywhere i can source a replacement, or does anyone have one i could borrow to try just to ensure it is the sensor at fault. Cheers.

Hey guys, I know this topic has been done to death, however wanted to know if there are any other options i may have over looked. I've considered the following; 1. Rare, but if i could find a 2.2L CDB I would use my existing components from my 2.1L (2.5L 79mm stroke rear thrust crank and rods) and build a 2.35, or 2. Get hold of a EJ207 2L semi CDB and sleeve, or 3. Use a 2L CDB i have that has a damaged bore and sleeve, lastly 4. Destroke a EJ257 semi CDB, I'm assuming this involves using a 2L 75mm stroke crank? I assume destroking a EJ257 would be far cheaper than building up a 2L block, would rev higher, what I don't know is how it would respond in comparison to a stroked engine. Does destroking a 2.5 have any issues with bottom end, i.e. due to larger diameter pistons in relation to a 97/97.5mm piston? Any thoughts, ideas or options greatly appreciated. Cheers

I basically wondered if it would resolve two problems; 1. Decrease the engine coolant temp thus keeping temps at more of a moderate range when doing endurance type track meets, and 2. Having a separate cooling system for the turbo would help keep down intake air temp? Thoughts?

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone out there has thought about or is running a seperate radiator setup for their turbo? Is this something that could a be a good option for track use or running high boost? Just wondered what would be involved with the setup, i.e. blanking off existing inlet/outlet from head, installing a new cooler for example a smaller radiator or air to air cooler, 12v water pump and tank? Any thoughts, ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

I think i must have an aftermarket water pump, mine looks like the one on the right in the photo of that website u sent me not the oem one to the left.

I'm running factory water pump still. yeah i think i need to install a air diversion plate on top of the radiator too and move the two coolers off of the front of the radiator, they definitely wont be helping with air flow thru the radiator.

Intercooler wise, as previously mentioned, I'm running a 600x300x76mm bar and plate fmic, to allow more air flow to the radiator would i be better off looking at going to a fin and tube design over the bar and plate? Secondly, increasing core thickness from 76mm to 100mm, whats that going to do cooling wise, lag, etc? Cheers

VE issues?