nismovzr2003

whats a 2 or 3 row alu tanked radiator? Is this the same thing as the performance radiator that fenix sells?

On the 268/264 cams i have, off the top of my head kelford recommends around 110° intake and 112° exhaust, however Darryl did change the exhaust to 114° from memory

The issues with temp weren't really an issue until being road tested. Darryl had said something about the combination of inducer an exducer wheels not really being a good match in that the turbo had the ability to flow a lot more than what the engine was capable of using and therefore this was causing the turbo to heat soak the intake charge, this combined with having factory radiator with two oil coolers attached to the front probably isnt helping ECT. Darryl has said replacing radiator with the likes of one of the ones fenix sell, possibly looking at a better intercooler, such as a fin and tube one to help airflow thru the intercooler to the radiator would all hopefully help with IAT and ECT.

Mainly high IAT and ECT. Darryl at EFI and Turbo in Palmerston North done the tuning. .63 housing. Cant remember exactly what Darryl said, however something to do with the turbo generating to much heat which was being transferred to the IAT. Dont have a dyno plot ill have to grab one off of Darryl. Just seemed a little strange is all, my previous engine, ODB 2L v3 sti engine, factory cams and gears saw 430hp atw which was tuned by Carl at E&H Motors, I wouldve thought with the stroker engine and different cams and adjustable cam gears I possibly would have seen similar power but at lower boost?

Hey guys I'm currently running 2.1L stroker motor in my 98 type r coupe, CDB, 2.5L rear thrust crank, v3/4 sti heads with Kelford 268/264 cams with adjustable camgears, decapped yellows, DW300 fuel pump, Tial 44mm wastegate, etc. I've recently had it tuned however my engine builder/tuner believes the 3082R is not really a good choice for my setup as its producing a lot of heat and that i could look to replace the core and cover with the likes of the gtx3071r or 76r. Im running external coolers for the power steering and engine, still factory radiator which ill be looking to replace shortly and will look to replace my cheap and nasty bar and plate intercooler with a fin and tube version and this should allow more air flow to the radiator. I don't really want to modify/change downpipe or up-pipe etc so thought maybe a gtx could be a good option. it's currently running just on 400hp at roughly 24-25 psi on BP 98. I'm not after huge power figures, just something thats going to be reliable that i can use for the likes of track/club days and possibly superlap type events. Any thoughts, ideas, or help greatly appreciated. If you've had any success with the newer gtx3071r or 76r any advise would be great. cheers

I'd definitely been keen!

I like it! Cheers.

Nice. Whats that stinging you? What heads you using?

is that the Manley turbo tuff I Beam rods? What size turbo you using with this build? Im currently running a Garrett GT3082R on my 2.1 but I think it'll be a little small for the 2.35, possibly the GTX3582R or a Borg Warner variant would be a better option? Cheers

Apart from identifying thrust positions and journal sizes, how do you measure the stroke? Can this be done without the engine being assembled?

what brand I beam rods? Standard length or 131.6mm? If using wiseco pistons apparently u can use either rod length?

whose brand stroker pistons? I was looking at the Wiseco or Mahle 97.5mm stroker pistons?

what r u looking to run crank, pistons, rods wise?

Whose brand of sleaves did you use? What did it cost you to have them installed? Have you had any issues with the block? What combo crank, rods and pistons were used, EJ257 79mm stroke rrear thrust crank, 97.5mm pistons (stroker or standard), standard length rods? Cheers

what block was that to start with gotasuby?

Does anyone have a rough idea of what it would cost to deck an open deck 2.2 block? Or would using the 207 block as mentioned be a better option? Would the 207 still require sleaving or is there enough meat in the block to bore it out to the required size? Would it be cheaper to destroke a EJ25 or stroke the 2.2?

Yeah was looking at those options, just wondered if anyone had done it to a EJ20 CDB with or without needing to sleave the block.

Your EJ22, is that the EJ22E ODB?

Will be a high horsepower build. Currently running a 2.1 CDB, just wondered if the 2.35 was another good option.

Yep didn't think so. As much as I'd like to try something new, sleaving a EJ20 CDB will be too pricey

Thinking about doing a 2.35 build, EJ25 79mm stroke crank, rods and 97.5mm pistons. Anyone have any success/failure stories regarding the stroked 2.35?

How easy is it to get hold of the EJ22 CDB these days?

Hey guys, Just wanted to know if its possible to convert a EJ20 CDB to a EJ22 CDB? Has anyone done it before? Are sleaves required? Just thinking of options for down the track. cheers

Hey guys, Just after some info regarding case bolts for the early closed deck blocks. Is there much point upgrading to ARP or are factory case bolts fine? Does anyone know how much a set of factory case bolts are worth? Is is best to use subaru factory bolts or is there another manufacturer out there that provides something similar? Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers

I see Deatschwerks also sell 1000cc side feeds, $629USD for a match set. Funnily enough they are also JECS injectors same as the ones from fiveomotorsport, however, you can get a set of 1200s for $438USD. Would love to buy sets from both companies to compare, sadly my wallet says no