telemekas
-
Posts
214 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by telemekas
-
-
I'm putting my gtb motor back together and because the primary turbo was a little noisy i thought i would upgrade the vf13 and vf14 turbos to vf18 and vf 19.
I bought a couple of turbos off a B4 legacy and was told they are vf18&19 but the secondary is actually a vf27. Looks very similar to the vf18 but has no wastegate.
B4's never had external gates so im assuming boost is regulated through the primary turbo?
The early secondary turbos VF14 and VF17 are the only ones with wastegates.
With further improvement and simplification of the TT sequential system these were made redundant on the later secondary turbos.
-
Example of AUDM B4 conversion:
Using the TT ECU and a greddy profec B spec II boost controller - it made 203kw on 18psi.
The single turbo conversion was done on the original B4 motor using the following parts:
-standard headers with catless up pipe
-VF29
-silicone intake & 'short fat' bit
-hyperflow CAI
-samco silicone y-pipe
-STi TMIC
-3" turbo back exhaust
-
The VF20 is the primary and VF21 the secondary.
The earlier models TT had wastegate on the secondary turbo --> VF14 and the VF17 only
The secondary turbos VF14 and the VF21 are essentially equal in power no gains from swapping.
Both use same size compressor wheel.The turbine wheels are different 5700 vs 4600 but this offset by the turbine A/R, P16 vs P18
-
New member here, would any of you guys happen to know which option would best suit me here;
http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/show/799/Zerosports/Sequential%20Controller.html
I have a 1999 B4 RSK Manual, Is the harness seperate from the actual unit? Is the harness just so you can easily plug the controller directly into the ECU without having to follow any confusing japanese diagrams?
Which option should I choose?
the BE/BH $533?
the BE/BH A-C $356?
I know its a stupid question but I don't want to go down the road with a possible $500 that I wont get back.
Appreciate the help guys
I contacted Fortyone.co.nz on 31 August 2011 and was quoted $350 AU delivered. No harness available for my TT and the unit is sent directly to you from Japan.
-
subieboy']
[quote name='Jord said:
Cant really see why FHI didnt go down that route in the first place. How much did it roughly cost? The ECV flapper would be the other big restriction as it still blocks near half of the port when fully open. Would a butterfly valve work as a replacement ?
/quote]
Removed the ECV and replaced it with vacuum operated butterfly valve (low down in the 2nd turbo dump pipe).
Pics and details please
How much did the butterfly valve cost. what butterfly valve did you use, etc
Jun B.L ECV $250 operates via port No:6 solenoid box
Similar to this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400062383069?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Replaced the ICV with one these:
-
-
OK.
For tesing only: unplug the vacuum hose that goes to the top of the very large ECV actuator. Plug the hose leave the actuator port open.
Go for a drive and note any difference.
-
Ok awesome will do. Do I start the car every time I do it or just do several times then start car
No need to start the car, just have ignition on. Run for 60 secs (you will hear the clicking and fans cutting in and out). Ignition off and unplug green connectors.
Restart car to charge the vacuum tank. Repeat above.
-
Well primary seems to be kicking in nicely can feel it but sometimes 2nds will boost or othertimes it just feels like its the same power without the boost....
So telemekas where do I take the car to get the solenoid box cleaned and do you know what cost it could be? Also could this be the reason the 2nd turbo isnt always kicking in?
Connect the two green plugs under the dash and turn the ignition on. This will activate (check and quick clean) the solenoids and fans.
Run for one minute (Appprox 60 secs the vacuum storage tank will discharge.This will recharge when you start the car)
Do this several times and see if it makes a difference.
-
-
Hey Guys, Looking into why it seems like my secondary turbo doesnt always kick in. Sometimes you drive it and ya get the kick in the guts like you would expect and then later on take it for another drive and it doesnt seem like its boosting at all. Anyway looking over vacuum lines and noticed this. 1 vacuum hose is missing of this bottom bit on the BBoD and another one has a screw in it... Is this the norm?
On the last revision TT the solenoid port No:11 is not used.
The one next to it No:12 goes directly to the manifold
The bunged port comming off No:12 was for measuring manifold pressure ie boost gauge
With the accumulation of dust and oil in the vac lines and actuators over time they become less sensitive/responsive.
Time to service/clean the solenoid box.
-
Cant really see why FHI didnt go down that route in the first place. How much did it roughly cost? The ECV flapper would be the other big restriction as it still blocks near half of the port when fully open. Would a butterfly valve work as a replacement ?
Removed the ECV and replaced it with vacuum operated butterfly valve (low down in the 2nd turbo dump pipe).
-
Yes, boost drop off is cut by more than 50% (ie 7psi-->2-3psi)
-
Ok so I have a secondary turbo what do I need to buy now to get it made into a primary turbo?
You will need your existing primary turbo Non-BB VF26.
A turbo shop will remove the compressor cover and turbine housing from the BB VF27.
The centre section CHRA of the VF27 is then used to replace that of the VF26.
These two turbos use the same size wheel sets, so no performance increase.
However it will be slightly more responsive as you will now have a unique BB VF26
-
That makes sense joker... thanks for that, understand now. DOn't understand why Subaru did it though! ;D
So in essence to fix the problem would be when the secondary turbo is starting to spool, instead of the boost bleeding off, would be to redirect it into the pressure side along with the primary turbo so there is no change over.
That in essence is how the Toyota Supra Sequential Twin Turbo IACV change over operated. (a small passive reed valve in conjunction with the butterfly valve)
The Subaru TT can be improved by replacing the IACV with a passive one way check valve. This allows you to remove the Supercharger pressure relief valve.
However for optimization the ECV needs to be ported or removed and a new type installed low down in the 2nd turbo dump pipe.
-
-
The primary VF26 (RHF4) is a non-Ball Bearing (sleeve) turbo
Bearing rebuild kits are available.
-
-
Block it off.
-
-
would this be risky if you have no experiences? i have never done any tuning before. this rom raider software u talking about. i will have to have a read first and see how it works. also would i need a VAG-COM or tactrix cable to run this rom raider software from my laptop to car? where would i find 1 from? sorry for these noob questions but im new to this stuff, i have a friend who has done something like this before but he said hes not 100% sure how it's done.
This is a good start:
-
Hey everyone.
Here's the deal, recently got a v4 sti, needed to replace the turbo, all good, got a td05 but turns out the engine is not a v4 but a later one and the turbo water feed line hits the engine (see picture, yes i know the bolt is unscrewed, makes no difference tight or loose for fitment) unfortunately this stops the turbo from seating on the up pipe.
Was hoping someone here would have an idea of what to do.. I was thinking maybe buy a stainless hose with fittings and do away with the banjo bolt (just for the water feed, the only issues). unsure on what sizes I would need etc. if anyone here has some input, it would be greatly appreciated. would really like to get it running asap
cheers
As a possibility remove the metal tab that connects the two pipes.Run the bottom pipe over the top.The top pipe on the bottom facing rear or forward depending on space.You may need to get longer water hoses. It might work?
-
Solenoid box Line No:8 connects to the 2nd wastegate actuator
See Sequential Turbo diagram on this page:
-
I pressure tested the ECV using the top positive pressure port.
Begins to open at 120 Torr or approx 2.5PSI and fully open at 160 Torr approx 3.5 PSI
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 131 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Turbo upgrade
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Yes