telemekas
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Posts posted by telemekas
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Do you have 3 pipes or 4 pipes comming from the manifold.
The later Rev D has only 3 pipes and hose No 11 became redundant.
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There should be four pipes comming from the manifold.
The centre two pipes should be going to the BBOD.
Track the centre two pipes 11 & 12 back to the BBOD.
What year and model car do you have?
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No need to remove the intercooler.
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There is a diagram on this page showwing where No 11 goes to.
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11508.0.html
BBOD = Black Box Of Death = Solenoid Box
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Yes just replace it with a longer vacuum line.
The seal/gasket should be reusable as long as it has not been cracked or deformed.
No need to stick it.
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From the ECU case ag443 the ROM ID is A4SHCOOH
I can send you a copy of your ECU rom hex file and the XML definition to generate the maps for the tuner.
Let me know your email address.
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No 11 connected to metal pipe going to the manifold.
There is an Absolute Pressure Sensor in the solenoid box for No 11.
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Hellow there fellow members.,
I speak to you all from my neighbouring country south africa, glory what a super country not to mention the nice and i mean really nice roads, bar the road works currently going on.
Any ways went to see the tuner and asked about the tuning of the ecu, made him listen to the detonation.
Confirm it was quite bad.
Now problem... he plugged in his tactrix cable and he couldnt get into my ecu for some reason.???
Sure its a denso and it can be mapped lol well at least i think it can be.
So my tuner says that he would much rather go with some water injection to try and curb the detonation as apposed to fixing the problem by pulling back the timing ?
Weird but thats what he says it will be cheaper and easier to fit ?
Now my question what would you all do water injection or pull timing back ?
Why do you think he couldnt get in with the tactrix cable ?
Is there something i should be trying or a way that we dont know of getting into the ecu ?
How easy is it to just pull timing back cause maybe i dont need all this dyno time and mapping etc etc, maybe we can fix this by just pulling timing back and then trying the car out ?
What do you think i hope im not asking for too much advice here but i need some at the moment ....
looking forward to hearing what you all think.
Since the tuner has the TACTRIX cable he should be able to access the ECU depending on the program he is using ie:EcuFLASH, ROMRAIDER/Enginuity or EcuEdit.
What he may not be able to do is open the ROMs hex file using a definition set or decoder.
The full definitions for the TT are not readily available. Only the DTC are.
I can supply you with the definition either from the ROM ID ie A4SH-----
You will have to ask the tuner for it.
The ECU case will have an ID as listed ag---
Legacy Twin Turbo - ag440
Legacy Twin Turbo - ag441
Legacy Twin Turbo - ag451
Legacy Twin Turbo - ag850 2581
Legacy Twin Turbo - ag850 2591
These are from EcuTek
Let me know what the ID is.
As for the water injection this may be the way to go, if the timing pull/retard is not sufficient to solve the problem.
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How easy is it to map using this open source software or does one need to have a readily available codes ?
#EcuFlash is easy to use, tuner should not have any problems.
Copy the ECU rom hex file into the EcuFlash program and find out the ECU Rom ID
it should start with A4SH---- Once you have that I can send you the XML (the hex decoder)to use in EcuFlash. This will then open the 2D,3D maps etc.
Im not sure but i am willing to give it a shot .
#OK
Though i am uncertain what type of ODBII cable to get so that i can flash as i have seen the tactrix cable but its like a wireless dongle ?
#The TACTRIX connects the car OBDII port via cable to USB port on your PC.
Im not sure if that what i need to get please could you point me in the right directions?
#Giving it a go.
My other question is my tuner wants to charge me 750 usd and thats not evenfitting a after market ecu just opening my ecu and flashing it ?
I am confiused should it cost this much ?
#Yes for a complete tune may require 30-50 reflashes as you adjust map parameters and run the car on the dyno to see the effect.(adjust reflash-->adjust reflash-->etc)
he says thats including dyno time as well?
#Dyno usually charge approx $150/hr and a tune may require 2-3 hours depending on difficulty and TT are more involved as the ECU runs two boost maps..
#The tuner can 'just' pull the timing for your low 93 octane fuel and should be minimal cost.
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Right thankyou for the fast response.
I have just checked on the tag and its a revision D so the number goes like BE5D .....
Now i need to be armed with some really good information here so that i can get the right job done.
What subaru tool is used to do this job ?
What should i tell the dealer to user etc cause i know they going to tell me my car is a jap Domestic car in South Africa and they have never sold this type of legacy before so there fore will not do the job for me etc etc...
Please help me and arm me with the right information so i can get this job done .
If they pull the tiiming back a little and i loose a little power i dont mind .
However i really dont want to break the engine i just want it to run reliably .
This is my second legacy the previoous model we had was a 1999 model and ran like krap i really mean like krap it had no oxygen sensor so i installed one and went through three airflow meters cause of the racing air filter i had ( didnt come with a original air box)
So i sold it and got this new one with a new type airflow meter same tyope thats used in a is200 altezza lexus ....
Any ways it runs really well when its not detonating lol....
I hope the dealership resolves this for me and i would be one very happy man .
Revision d cars have tunable ecus but what else can be tuned on them should i get my own odbII software to try and resolve the issue if the dealership denies me ??
A possible option for you depending on budget etc. Reflash/Logging/Diag Codes for Liberty/Legacy Rev D (DENSO ECU)
Purchase EZYFLASH unit from here:http://www.ezy-flash.com/products
Purchase additional tune set ROMS from here:http://www.chiptorque.com.au/Ezy-FLASH_Pro.html
A more do it yourself option:
Purchase a OBD II cable http://www.tactrix.com/
Download software EcuFlash:http://www.docstoc.com/docs/2141081/EcuFlash-Tutorial
or RomRaider:http://www.romraider.com/
Once you have your ECU Rom ID ie:A4SH----
Let me know and I can send you the XML so you or your tuner can open the Rom maps for adjustment/tuning
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Example:
Legacy Twin Turbo - af330
Subaru Legacy BH5 EJ20 Turbo
ECU CPU L3 22611 AF330 JDM
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The primary turbos VF13,VF16,VF18,VF20,VF25,VF26,VF31 and PE1016F are direct bolt on replacements. However the wheel sets, bearings and turbine A/R does vary between turbos.
The VF33 primary is the exception with its larger compressor inducer (60mm)and exducer(50mm).
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ok well 6hours after starting to get the turbo off the car I have the turbo off the car an the uppipe off the turbo.The turbo is split .About to resemble everything
I noticed the small circle piece of metal under the turbine on the turbo has abita movement in it. (like you can spin it freely) -is that normal ? is it suppose to do that? the turbine itself has no play at all an is surprisingly good condition for age. just that bit under it spins around abit to freely
Urgent answer needed (or if you are in chch town im working on it on wordsworth/brougham st right now)
Heat shield (between the CHRA and turbine wheel) this will lock done when you attach the turbine housing and secure with C-clamp
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Hi
As most know the VF30 can be rebuilt. Has anyone actually had one of these rebuilt or done it them selves, any idea of the cost of the rebuild kit or how much to get one done?
cheers
http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/turbos/technical_data/ihi_RHF5/
With rebuilds I usually supply the rebuild kit and get it done by turbo specialists.Due to shaft wear etc the wheel set (compressor and turbine) may require a rebalance and possible replacement..
Plus they have the tools to do the rebuild.
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hi guy jus wondering if i kud get sum help iv found a couple of turbos on trade me that i want to put in my bg5 but im not sure if its a good combo..
its a vf20 primary with a vf27 secondary any info would be great
cheers.
RTSTK
The VF27 secondary turbo good choice.
The VF20 primary same as the earlier VF16 (wheel sets).
Recommend for primary getting the later VF25 or VF26 to match (wheel sets) the VF27 or unmatched VF31
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It is possible yours may have been removed?
However you need it for boost control with the subaru two port solenoid.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How-Subarus-Factory-Boost-Control-System-Works-v11-01
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On bg5 theres a vacum pipe mod on pipe 10 and a similar one for be/bh which makes boost 16/16 reduces vod i have done to both models and makes a huge difference in acceleration both cars have done over 30k with mod. DONT put boost tap in tt subs it takes control of boost away from ecu and is asking for big trouble thats what blew 1st motor in bg5
/quote]
What is the mod? Might give it a go....
Cheers
Open bonnet.
Standing looking in, go to right hand side where the battery is.
Just above, in the inner wing, you will see the vac lines numbered 10 and 23.
Hose 23 (to wastegate solenoid)
You need to unplug hose 23 and not number 10 near the passenger wing.
This will slow down your boost to about 5-7 PSI and you need to gently run
the car for about 5 minutes. (essentially clears the line)
Then after reconnect the hose 23 and do the Mod with hose 10
Mod hose 10 (bleed off from wastegate solenoid)
In line 10 there is a small hose joiner approx 15cm down the hose.
Gently prise the hose apart here.
Leave the end going into the inner wing open.
The other end heading away into the engine intake gets blanked off.
(essentially shortening the bleed off hose length/restriction)
Then secure the now loose hose 10 and know where find it if you change your mind
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Their is a nice pic of a VF32 with the large actuator cannister here. You can see the rod with long central adjustment connector and lock nuts at each end plus the ECV.
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The return rpm 3300 may need to be increased. Trying to go on boost again (ie 3400rpm) before it has dropped back to 3300 rpm from 4500+ rpm you will be in parallel mode.
The ECV (large cannister/actuator)is located on the drivers side of the engine.There is an actuator rod connecting it to the ECV .
ECV can be fine tuned.
"You can adjust the actuator rod on the ECV to optimise the changeover.
Start the car cold (unless you have heatproof fingers) and undo the locknuts on the ECV adjustment rod and wind it out until you hear it rattle, then wind it in till the rattle stops and then another complete turn then redo the locknuts.
This allows it to leak a bit of boost on the primary before the changeover actually starts so it reduces it a bit.
You have to play with it a little to get the right amount of leakage or it makes less of a difference or you cant reach full boost on the primary and get poor primary response"
quote billsy
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Appears maybe that your ECV (exhaust control valve) is staying open and you are in parallel mode at low RPM.
What have you set crossover rpm (valve open etc) and return rpm (valve close etc) points on the Seq Controller.
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For low end response with matched wheel sets:
VF31 with VF32 or VF25 with VF27
For more top end:
VF26 with VF27 or PE1016F(VF31 on a shaved P16 housing) with VF32
Depending on whats available you can use either VF32 or VF27 as a secondary as they have similar flow rates.
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which order tele?
best to worst?
I would assume worst to best with 26 being the pick of the bunch?
mind you I have a 31 & achieve 18psi @ 2500RPM's with high boost setting (spikes)
"Recommend in order of response VF31, VF25 or VF26"
The VF33 is ball bearing turbo with P11 turbine housing. Therefore the fastest responding of all primary turbos.Has the same wheel set as a secondary VF32.
The VF25 and VF26 are non ball bearing with P12 and P14 turbine housings respectively.Both use the same wheel sets as a secondary VF27.
All the other suitable primary turbos though they are ball bearing, sit on P16 turbine housings.
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The VF13 is the very first TT primary turbo. Therefore any primary turbo from then onwards would be an upgrade and will be a straight bolt up (with the exception of the VF33).
Recommend in order of response VF31, VF25 or VF26.
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What primary turbo is on your car now?
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Pipe 11 ? Nothing attached
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
That may explain it.
So lets check it out to confirm.
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11508.0.html
The diagram needs to be modified for your car.
No:1,2,3,5,6,8 and 12 are correct
No:10 now goes to a step-up pipe which connects to the intake near where No 8 joins to the Pressure Relief Valve.
No: 11 not used