shore_boy
-
Posts
137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by shore_boy
-
-
Bought a new car and this was in it. Both the previous owner and I have no idea what it is.
Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
Cheers.
-
I recently had this issue. Fixed myself, wouldn\'t have been hard but I had some extra complications...
Here\'s the tutorial i followed http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-transfer-case-removal-5th-6049.html?t=6049
Here\'s my thread from earlier this year http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,39335.0.html
All the best mate.
-
yeah, makes sense, gentle abrasive to take all the oxidisation and s**t off, but it takes any wax coating off too.
found repco has "autosol", small rectangle box, normally fairly well hidden, about $10 for a tube, best thing i\'ve found for clearing headlights...
Better than 2000 grit sand paper and cutting compound?
-
I thought TD04 nz new cars had grey injectors... i may be wrong
What were the plugs you pulled out like? wet, oily, carbonated or anything like that?
+1 I thought the WRX came with grey injectors and the STI with yellow.
That\'s tough mate, I\'ve had recent fueling issues too. if she\'s boosting and constantly trying to reach full boost then from my experience issue is mechanical. If it\'s being limited/cut at any stage then electrical. Also every time I\'ve had this I get what seems to be a miss fire but i reckon just an extremely rough idle?
Unfortunately you\'ve covered all of the problems that I found with my car.
I know it doesn\'t sound fantastic to push the car into boost when the car is running badly but this is how i\'ve diagnosed this issue in the past. Could pay to check boost gauge readings at idle and under acceleration?
Just my 2cents. All the best.
Quick question, what is the reason the Japanese ECU won\'t run the car? Just curious.
-
Timmah']
[quote name='evowrx said:
Dafuq is chief oil? You kinda want to look at listings relevant to our climate/conditions also.
There are light 30\'s and heavy 30\'s theres actually so much too it I have no idea about it. Most oils arent supplied with graphs etc so you kinda have to take the chemists word for it.
/quote]
For Wellington, other than randy wind, we may get one or two single notably hot weeks in the Summer (never consecutively) and in Winter, we are lucky to get one entire week where it\'s notably cold. So doesn\'t seem worth to take this into consideration (feel free to blow my theory up Welly folks).
ALTHOUGH
I am looking at PENRITE FULLY SYNTHETIC 10W-40 for my next change, seems to be more popular here than the 5W.
What about Penrites 10W-50? dun dun dunnnnn
I went for the Penrite 10W-50 before my track day. Is great stuff, saw minor improvements over the 10W-40. I chose it over the 5W because I don\'t have a baffled sump and the added lubrication is beneficial. I used Penrite fluids all round their gearbox oils make a world of difference!
-
As Boon said if you\'re confident that your install and parts are good you should be looking toward the power delivery and wheels.
Could pay to check electrics? I know there are a few in there that limit the car severely.
-
Sorry couldn\'t resist..
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Forester+with+v7+STI+rims
Heres a good link
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/v7-jdm-sti-wheels-should-i-buy-them-80897/
-
I have some sillicone an some rubber hoses. As the rubber perishes i replace with sillicone because im to lazy to do them all at once.
I blew a line off on 16 psi after i had been driving for ages and put my foot down. Scary feeling when you pit your foot up it an you get that ugly miss and lack of boost.
Oh and last trackday i said about.
That "scary" feeling is exactly what I experienced! I just got a bad feeling about it straight away. Apparently the car was backfiring like crazy (flames almost a metre long) and it was just running terribly. Nice to just be going round with the car doing it\'s job.
Also the possumlink in there is so dependent on the map sensor everything and I mean everything was restricted and it was dumping fuel in to save the engine from running lean i\'m guessing?
-
Mine popped off whilst I was on the track and we called it a day after checking the plugs and fuel lines etc. When We got home I took the car for a drive with stock ecu in and noticed the boost gauge was not getting a correct vacuum reading at idle and then realised we had wasted almost a whole day
only had two runs but hell was it fun!! Learnt a lot for the next time also!!I think I\'ll go on the hunt for some fuel line clamps and replace a few of my hoses with silicone for the next time. Mine just look tired and It\'s not the best when working the car as hard as you do on the track.
I understand that cable ties are an easy option and as I mentioned earlier I\'ve been told not to stress it but each to their own. I don\'t want to take the chance. Hampton is a long way from home, and a trailer for the day is $100.
-
So may people come through work with dangerous cars and are totally oblivious to it because for example they have serious camber wear but only look at outside of tyre tread so they don\'t realise there wire is hanging out inside etc.
/quote]
The whole WoF interval thing is especially dumb when it comes to tyres. Saw a 2011 Merc SUV in town the other day, so obviously still on 1 year WoFs, tyres were completely f*cked, bald as and bits missing from the sidewall from them kerbing it, whole 9 yards...
Should be done on KMs with a date backup... I reckon every 10,000 OR annual, whichever you hit first.
I agree with this. I think we\'ll see a lot more dangerous cars out there. In my opinion they should tighten up some of the regulations of the WOF standards. Not to mention the number of garages that are more than likely going to go out of business...
-
Secondly i\'m thinking of replacing all of the hoses and lines around the turbo and top mount.
What\'s the best way to go about that?
-
Been looking for a solution for clamping my vacuum lines that are popping off causing my ECU to run extremely rich. The lines that are affected are the lines running from the map sensor to the solenoid and the solenoid to the manifold/boost gauge (t-piece).
My boost gauge has started to read incorrectly even though the car is reaching full boost and holding it, so i\'m thinking it\'s something to do with the lines. Gauge is the factory Lamco mounted just behind the steering wheel.
I have tried pinch type clamps and adjustable hose claps. Both are simply too big. Many people have suggested cable ties but if there is an alternative to this i\'d like to go that route.
Cheers.
-
My MY97 WRX had wicked piston slap, sounded like a little diesel when it was cold, and I sold that a few years ago to some young fullas who proceeded to thrash the tits off it, it\'s still going strong so I wouldn\'t worry about it.
Sounds like my last WRX also. It\'s quite common when they\'re cold from what I understand.
-
-
After spending so much time with that part of the box i\'m pretty confident that i\'m right. When you move the stick left to right that little mechanism is what creates the resistance to let you know that you\'re drifting from the center. So given that it\'s job is to center the shifter in my mind. If you\'re talking about a back and forth movement then i\'m completely off.
The spring for that could very well be outside the box as the mechanism i\'m talking about sits at the very top right of the transfer case. So could be externally accessible?
-
I think you\'re talking about the mechanism inside the transfer case? Here\'s a pic. It\'s where the top of the shifter rod sits inside that transfer case.
-
Time is almost here! Hope she returns in the same state. Hoping for some sunshine too! Will shit myself more in the wet.
-
I just paid 180 to have my possumlink repaired. Not terrible...
-
-
blanket statement: if you get on the track you have 100% responsibility for your own car in 100% of scenarios.
/quote]
shore_boy.... "Is there a courtesy system?"
Dude.....
Its not a line at starbucks...
if you see someone going slow.. go past them.
If your worried about stacking your car or someone else\'s car dont go out.. simple as that.
Other wise grow some stones and just go do it!!!
You missed my point.
My statement related to damaging someone else\'s car. To put into context if I knocked someone\'s coffee at Starbucks and they sustained burns would I help them or would I walk away? So in the event of a crash nobody is responsible but we would all hope that whoever caused the crash would own up.
I\'m not worried I just want to be a respectable person on the day. That is all.
-
What if they\'re going unreasonably slow for example they\'re almost at a stop? Do they have right of way being the car in front? What if their brake lights are not working?
I\'m aware that you have to have a WOF but shit happens...
My question was more related to tricky circumstances. What you said was quite blunt and obvious...
-
Cheers guys,
Will keep all of the above in mind for the day. Will definitely be easing into it as I have no real experience, I\'m sure it will be an awesome day though!
Car is feeling really good at the moment and my ecu is currently in Christchurch for repair will have it by Wednesday or Thursday I\'d imagine.
Have a question regarding collisions on the track. Say for example you hit someone in in a corner or someone stands on their brakes and you collide how do they go about deciding? Witnesses perhaps? What if there are none?
I would guess there is a track etiquette but I have no idea hence the question.
-
Best thing I found to make my car last for many trackdays was to not stay out for longer than about 10 to 15 minutes hot laps at a time. Often if they were days that were being run with half hour or so time slots, I\'d just do three or so laps at a medium pace and then get back on it again for 4 or 5 hot laps.
On street tyres, there\'s not too much to worry about for short periods of time (maybe 500mls extra oil). Once you have done 4 or 5 laps at full pace, the oil will start thinning right out, the street tyres will start going off and your brakes will turn to butter as everything will be heatsoaking. Give it a chance to cool down before bringing it back in as well. Remember its not a race so no need to be driving at 110% right up until you enter the pit lane!
Also I have seen alot of people in the past who come in after their first 4 or 5 hot laps and freak out cause there\'s smoke coming out of every orifice of their engine bay. Its generally just all the grime and crap baking off their engine.
Main thing: heat is the enemy more than anything else when driving a road car on the track (apart from tyre walls, if you drive into one of those, it does more immediate damage than getting everything hot
)Cheers for that. I\'ve been told a lot that 15mins is a big session for a road orientated car and that I should be going easy on it.
So from what I understand (from your last post) you can drive on and off the track at hampton? I\'ll keep the three to four laps in mind.
When driving the car off the track to cool should it be idling?
-
Never done a track day but baffled sump seems to be high on the list. $200 odd for a basic pbms one which would be better than the stock one Id guess.
Love those tyres also.
I have strongly considered this and decided against it. Reason being I don\'t believe i\'m a good enough driver and that I don\'t think the car will take the corners that well. Also limited funds was a big part of the decision.
I know the consequences and i understand the benefits but as I say above I\'m not so sure I can push my car that hard. In fact I think it\'s going to laugh at me.
Cheers for the input
only had two runs but hell was it fun!! Learnt a lot for the next time also!!
)-
Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 166 Guests (See full list)
Help - What is this?
in Electrical
Posted
Agreed. I google'd for an hour but had no luck. Obviously my wording (or googling skills) needs improving.
Also I interpreted the end letter as a 'D' not a 'O'.
Cheers for the feedback.