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syphe

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Posts posted by syphe

  1.  The Rookie']

    p.s. 15\'s suck balls for a daily driver car, I\'d rather run a good 10 or 12 and save myself some boot space.

    yeh i know they suck for a daily but i had it set up quite nicely in my old car, where i could take it out whenever i needed.

    [quote name='syphe said:

    it\'s got a bastard 20 or so pin din cable. I\'ve spliced into mine and wired in rca plugs which was a total PITA.

    /quote]

    How long did it take you to splice it and would you me doing it myself or should i get it professionally done?

    didn\'t take too long to sort it out, it was more just the fact the din cable has very very thin wires, so was quite fiddly and really delicate.

  2. you could try japanese yahoo auctions maybe?

    The aus guys seem to get a lot of stuff through yahoo, you may be able to pick one up used relatively cheap that way. With that being said, everytime I look on yahoo auctions for something small they all go for outrageous prices so YMMV.

  3. yeah definitely after the facelift RS-B, my brother sold a white one with tan interior about 6 years ago in immaculate condition for far too cheap, so part of me is looking for one just like that hehe.

    yeah had a look at the BE\'s as well, some of them go rather cheap. Will see what comes up, probably a while away from buying one anyway so will just keep my eyes peeled.

    cheers for the responses guys, very helpful.

  4.  evowrx said:

    I see you mention single turbo so probably the one thing to avoid would be a legacy.

    haha, yeah I know it\'s a bit dumb aye :)

    Mainly just because I\'m quite tall and it has a bit more legroom than the impreza\'s, if I find one I\'ll likely keep it twin unless one of them dies.

    cheers Rex, those are the years I was looking at, but mainly due to the fact I like the bumpers on the facelift ones, good to know it\'ll help out technically too.

  5. Hi all,

    I\'m looking at buying a BD5 RS legacy in the next year as a project once I\'ve built myself a car port around the back of my garage, but wondering if I can get some opinions from the fine clubsub folk as to what I should be looking out for and what to avoid.

    Preferably after a 1996-1998 in white or yellow, manual.

    I don\'t have many plans other than giving it a tidy, make it shine, and depending on the state of the engine/turbo rebuild and go single turbo.

    My last project was an E30 BMW which I sold in order to buy a TV for our new house, I still regret selling that, but here we are :)

    So, just a couple of questions, I\'m looking for cars in the ballpark of $2-3k, am I looking for trouble at this price range? From the looks of it most at this price have some rough body work and/or shagged turbo\'s or other unknown engine problems.

    At that price range is it work getting a compression/leak down test done? I presume I\'ll probably have to strip it down anyway, but am I better off starting with something that is relatively in good order from the start?

    Anything else to look for or avoid? Rust in odd places etc?

    Appreciate the help.

  6. a few more bits and pieces arrived yesterday.

    got a second lcd screen, decided that the 6.5" screen was too small after seeing the factory unit was a 7" screen with some underscan. 7" screen almost identical to the 6.5" screen was purchased from eBay and arrived smartly a week or 2 later.

    Also the 12V to 5V down converter arrived, connected it up to a strip connector thing (at the top of the photo below) temporarily, I expect vibrations will loosen the connectors so this is only temporary while I\'m getting things sorted.

    Plugged it in to the wall with a 12V power supply, checked with the multimeter and sure enough got 12V to the down converter and 5V from the converter.

    Got the screen all connected, and thought I may try out to see whether my wee usb digitizer control unit works with the factory digitizer, to my suprise I plugged it in and a few seconds later tapped on the screen and saw a mouse cursor appear. The calibrations a bit munted at the moment, and the axis is around the wrong way, but at least it works and means the digitizer will fit perfectly in the surround YAY.

    Here\'s a picture of it all working with a bunch of crap lying around.

    2014-03-19184511_zps03cad871.jpg

    This morning I took a detour on my cycle and while dripping with sweat picked up a couple of barrel jacks from jaycar to make my power leads for the screen board and usb hub. Tonight I\'ll try to solder these up and with a bit of luck I\'ll have everything enclosed and working off a single 2.5mm barrel jack for power for easy plug and play.

    2014-03-20114628_zps337d4dc9.jpg

  7.  kwi_fozze said:

    bluetooth obd11 adaptor showed up. oohh yep, lets have a play....

    f**k, why the hell won\'t it connect to the ecu!!??

    so, turns out that JDM import subaru, pre CAN-BUS (circa 2006 on) are not actually obd11 compliant, they use SSM instead.

    nz new, AUDM,USDM etc all use obd11, but not jdm.

    well s***. hunt around for an SSM bluetooth adaptor. $180 ex UK, seems to be the only bluetooth SSM thingee available worldwide.

    now hows that for a pain in the arse. oh well, back to the drawing board... need to convince tactrix to release a bluetooth cable and smartphone app!!!!

    sucks man, I went through the same thing, haven\'t ended up finding anything else worth buying short of taking the punt on one of the other dongles around and having a brick if it doesn\'t work.

    The obdkey seems most promising, which is probably the one you mention for $180, but still not sure whether that works as there is some guy on liberty forums who gives up even after communicating with the obdkey devs for info on how to configure for SSM: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=15712&start=45

    we are borg, let us know if you find anything, I\'ve tried torque with bluetooth and wired, it does have settings enabling SSM but I couldn\'t get it to work, but i\'ve not tried it with a tactrix, just cheap vagcom cable that works with the laptop and a cheap bluetooth elm327 dongle.

  8. Just went and picked up an OEM nav screen from the wreckers, $56 including.

    I got it with the plan on ripping out the buttons for connecting to the pi, but I\'m gonna try use the whole unit.

    Looks like it should help with keeping everything secure, I\'ll take it apart and hopefully the screen will fit in without too much forcefullness.

    Also the rear of the unit should be a good place to secure all the ports I need for reverse camera and such.

    2014-03-03111606_zps66a9bd0e.jpg

  9.  taylerreed94 said:

    Ahhh, well if you ever need a hand pm me. Letter ally just round the corner ;)

    cheers mate, will let you know if I need a second pair of hands, feel free to give me a PM if you just wanna take a look in person how things are going too.

    Screen finally arrived a couple days ago, so gave it a test connected to the raspberry pi as these pictures show:

    gxqv.jpg

    xlin.jpg

    Unfortunately I missed a detail in the ebay listing for the screen and failed to order the more expensive unit with built in digitizer for touch input.

    Luckily these things are all fairly barebones parts and can be purchased seperately, so immediately I bought a matching digitizer and a converter board for taking the digitizer output and pushing it to usb, only cost around $10 each so not too much of a blunder.

    For a trial I have got the screen taped securely to the back of the faschia and sitting in the cubby area hooked up to the reverse camera, will take a few more pics next time i\'m in the car for this.

    Seems to work well, the ccd camera has good detail, but haven\'t tried it in the dark just yet.

    Also need to get a 12v to 5v step down converter to power the usb hub, most of them I can see only provide about 3 amps, however the hub is 3.5amps, I think I should be ok but to be safe I\'ll just try to avoid loading up the hub with too many thirsty devices.

  10. aah I see, well I\'ll soon find out. I haven\'t bought any gear to provide power for the pi in the car yet, so may have a few testing nights ahead of me to get things sorted.

    One thing that may trip me up is I was planning on only providing power to the usb hub and let it backfeed to the pi, this is how I\'ve got it setup while it\'s inside for testing, however there is no surge protection when power is backfed to the pi so will probably have to give both the hub and pi power seperately.

    do you think i\'d need to filter the 12v acc line coming in?

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