[Turbo upgrade please help]

Same topic Different idea , Needing Some Opinions From some PRos Out there

I still got some 300Zx Garrett turbos X2 With A\R 0.48 ,

Any one think that i could mount those and keep it in paro Mode , i dnt know if ill get more Lagg or just Reduce it IDEAS>?

was thinking about removing that Cross pipe n adding 2 waste gates there running back to Y pipe further back ,

also adding 2 front Mounts on each side for each individual turbo ,

Or should i just try USe One for starters on the Secondry Side?

[Idiots guide to converting your legacy to parallel]

way i set mine up which is Completely different to this threads way.

i see 11-12 psi then shortly after i see a constant 14psi till i change gear , kinda feel a small kick aswell once both are online starting at like 4100 Rpm Upwards for fullish boost

Only reason it jumps is that its using factory Boost Controllers, Ecu Thinks It needs to do that Due to the Whole VOD And ECU Supposedly thinks its the secondary coming online which its already spooling,Coz its in Paro Mode Already

Hope that helps, i always type things ...Strange

[gtb equal length]

Well anything restricting the flow of anything is considered a restrictor,

with the restrictor we have in out TT systems, i got no real evidence to say i know what\'ll happen with it enlargened.

depending on if ur running it 2 stage or parrallel

With it in 2 stage it could possibly reduce Pressure on primary and convert it into More Secondry/Top end Power

Could Also reduce VOD period Because of the Extra Gasses Spooling up the Secondry during switch over

With it in Parrallel , i get best response sitting on 4k Rpm/ 4 Gear , it could possibly reduce this to get best response to about 3500rpm . But It could also increase but give more Top End

Maybe overall Itll Just give More top End say 5600rpm Upwards

[gtb equal length]

like marky said

when running parrallel its pretty much the same on both left and right bank , just has a balance exhaust pipe in the middle , and a huge restrictor where the flapper is , that port is like only an 3/4 of an inch in diametre compared to passemger bank which is unrestricted at like an inch and a hallf

So in theory its equal , except for that restrictor on the secondry side.

[Legacy B4 Tiptronic Issue]

yeah it runs without it well has a rough idle but, unplug the TPS , put the car in second push the snow/Hold button , and drive down the road may have to reset ECU afterwards if CEL is on , only a suggestion Btw

Another thing to try if you think its slipping in the trans , do the stall tests , use the Snow/hold button , handbrake on and foot on the brake , and accelertate , think 2600rpm is what it stops at ,

dont do this test fr more than a few seconds and let the trans cool after each Gear test

If that makes sense to any one other than me , good on ya

,

[Legacy B4 Tiptronic Issue]

Harsh Thumping ? one thing i know that can cause that is the TPS

unplug it and see if it alters anything usually if its unplugged the power Led flashes ,

And you get that harsh thumping when shifting gears.

If it aint that Maybe one of the solenoids in the trans is fualty

[How - To: Adjusting your ECV rod thing]

its the easiest and the most efficient way to keep them running parallel

 

Hose 6 never gets positive pressure, only ever vacuum.

Also pulling the rod up closes the ECV, pushing the rod down opens it.

Yeah your right #6 is always seeing vacuum once it reaches certain Rpm ect ,

#1 hose (intercooler dashpot) that sees vacuum at low rpm (closed) and boost/ atmospheric pressure at higher rpm(open) works in semi Sync with

the #6 vacuum , could be a fraction before though .

[How - To: Adjusting your ECV rod thing]

What i tried to explain takes about a minute to install,

**disconnect intercooler dashpot hose

**disconnect bottom Hose off main Dashpot and blank off

**Fit one way valve to intercooler Dashpot Hose and add extra hose length on the end (vacuum only)

**Connect same hose with one way valve to Bottom of main dashPot

DONE But can be undone just as easy ,

*******What this does ******

**Pulls the Rod Up , which opens the Exhaust valve

**Keeps the Intercooler Valve Open at all times

*************Changes you may notice*************

** Power band is altered

** NO VOD

** slightly more lagg when at Low RPM

**Slight rattle at idle (due to the exhaust flapper being open)

**turbo temps are more consistent

**SEMI Bypass the CAT on the primary side

**Alters driving experience (Could feel like a different car)

**Better Fuel Economy around town

**Allows secondary turbo to continually run Like the primary

[How - To: Adjusting your ECV rod thing]

NOTE : was intended for Bottom HOSE #6 on Main Dashpot , NOT the top hose

 

Hose 1 to IACV (intercooler dashpot) only ever gets vacuum so a one way valve would not be needed.

The top port (hose 5) of ECV actuator (changeover dashpot) is the positive pressure hose that opens the ECV fully after prespool.

The bottom port (hose 6) of ECV actuator (changeover dashpot) is the negative pressure/vacuum port for prespool.

You could connect hose 1 (to IACV) to the base of the ECV actuator, plug hose 6 and then hose 1\'s vacuum would partially open the ECV. But hose 1 (to IACV) only gets vacuum prior to TT mode, so the IACV would constantly be wide open and the ECV would be in prespool position (partially open) until hose 5 (ECV positive pressure) opened the ECV completely after prespool.

that dashpot under the intercooler is a normally open butterfly , that vacuum #6 line gets boost pressure once the secondry turbo starts to come online during the VOD / secondry turbo spool up >

now the reason for the one way valve is to stop this line seeing boost hence keeping that secondry turbo flowing freely,

if this one way valve was not there , that exhaust flapper inside, will slam it shut causing a huge loss of power,@ say 4800 rpm if incorrectly hooked up

its the easiest and the most efficient way to keep them running parallel

[How - To: Adjusting your ECV rod thing]

Another thing to try with the whole TT setup to allow parrallel 2 things are needed,

One Way valve and a length of Vacuum Hose,

Take the Vacuum hose off the semi butterfly dashpot under the intercooler, (this keeps Secondry boost unrestricted )

add the one way valve so it only has vacuum , connect that hose and valve to the top of the changeover dashpot,

This should Pull the Rod to open(sometimes a minor rattle occurs due to the internal exhaust shutoff valve)

can blank off the hose you remove if wanted, Test it out ,

works wonders to maintain turbo temps, and semi bypasses the cat on the primary turbo

PRimary Boost is set at 10Psi Factory and when secondry turbo kicks in it it is about 13-14psi ,@3500RPM +