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seith_31

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Posts posted by seith_31

  1. 22 hours ago, Stodart said:

    Could it be a   faulty (temperature)  sensor perhaps - throwing it out?

     

    How do i check this? In inclined on this (temp sensor) or the throttle body itself. It has been very erratic. Sometimes it goes beyond 1000rpm like 1200-1300 and sometimes it goes 900rpm...

  2. Ok new development. After warming up, i shut the car off, after 5 mins, start her back up. Idles 800 then after  a few seconds corrects itself to about 950. Im trying to empty the tank hoping the fuel system cleaner messed up somethings and hopefully fixes the problem.

  3. Had a clean on the throttle body again and improved. But when i used the car again tonight, problem came back. This is gtting wierd...

    here are the parameters on free ssm

     

    %5BURL=http://s182.photobucket.com/user/seith_31/media/153287EC-5ED7-41AA-8991-3BF399090B3D.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x300/seith_31/153287EC-5ED7-41AA-8991-3BF399090B3D.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D

  4. Hum so iv done the battery disconnect procedure. This morning after about half an hours drive got to work put in park and idle was higher about 1.1k rpms. This is messing with my head really. Everything drives fine. No codes nothing. 

     

    Could it be that ecu still learning? Bad fuel because of fuel system cleaner?

  5. Hey guys hope somebody can chime in

    had the car serviced for 100k maintenance

    done upper engine cleaner, oil 5w30, oil filter (genuine) coolant drain, spark plugs, clean maf and throttle body, change brake fluid. Air filter still looks good so left it. Did pour a fuel system cleaner too.

     

    so heres my problem, before service car was idling warm at around 700-800 rpms on idle neutral. Now its idling warm at 1000-1100rpm at neutral. Have tried reseting the ecu through free ssm, battery disconnect and all those stuff. Checked hoses looks good too.

     

    Could there be somethig i missed? Or the car still learning to idle? Car drives great though.

  6.  ADIKT said:
    Didn't provide anything to him - he quoted $950rrp for the service items - clubsub members get a 15% discount also

    Includes the following (differs slightly from my list above)

    - Oil + filter

    - Power steering fluid + flush

    - Brake fluid + flush

    - Trans Fluid + flush (the expensive bit)

    - Radiator fluid + Flush

    - 6x Spark plugs

    - Upper engine cleaner

    - Front and rear diff oil replacement

    - Air filter

    - Cabin pollen filter

    - General checkup

    - ECU scan

    Holy ****! thats cheap as chips!

  7.  ADIKT said:
    Dropped the outback off to Ajay (Subirex) with a big to-do list lol

    100k service:

    - Oil + filter

    - Power steering fluid + flush

    - Brake fluid + flush

    - Trans Fluid + flush (the expensive bit)

    - Radiator fluid + Flush

    - 6x Spark plugs

    - Upper engine cleaner

    - Front and rear diff oil replacement

    - New pads all round + all rotors skimmed

    - Air filter

    - Cabin pollen filter

    - Fuel filter

    WOF

    Re-set TCU and maybe put new PAK files on to stop the thump from 2nd to 3rd

    Check:

    -Noisy pulley/tensioner/idler when cold

    -Weird clicking noise when accelerating (not cv clicking) sounds like driveshaft or some ****

    I think thats everything

    If uou dont mind me asking, how much did he quote you on these?

    My outback is nearing the 100k mark and needs this service.

    Did you provide the parts?

  8. Dumb question

    Are towies allowed to open cars?

    Like dodgy-open a car with a steel wire kinda type of thing inserted in a window sill?

    I have a video just not as clear just in case it is illegal and can forward it to authorities.

    I have seen this activity twice this week.

    They might just be disabling the brake or just gearing the car to neutral?

    But still wire through the window sill? Kinda like legalized car theft.

  9. I second that. Coming from a bp5 to a bpe. Bp5 horns sounds better.

    Might be my outback's horn is busted.

    Thanks for all the inputs guys. Really want those hella tones. Sounds and looks good!

  10. Hi guys

    As you may know, there's a lot of ****ty drivers in auckland nowadays. Just earlier somebody changed into my lane way too early than he indicated he was about to, almost hitting me during the process.

    I have tooted my horn but noticed its not up to par anymore, not loud enough really. Oem subaru outback horns.

    I have searched everywhere here in auckland where to get the best or loudest horns one can legally use.

    Am inclining to get some mitsuba dolce 2 (jdm as f) but they are way expensive.

    Any one of you here upgraded their horns? What did you get? How was installation? Did you have to get a relay?

  11. I used axxess aswc-1 also from amazon. Got instructions from their website but usdm config is totally different from jdm. After a bit of googling and research, tapped in the loom underneath steering column to find orange/white and violet/white wires. Tapped into them and got my steering wheel control done. Axxess was pretty amazing in auto detecting the car. Just a matter of finding the right wires for a jdm configuration really. And disconnecting that lan thing at the back of the fuse box on driver side.

  12. The only mechanical things at the back are hvac actuators. The video sounds mechanical but i guess they (actuators, blend and mode) wouldnt sound that loud if faulty

    Try switching from different modes on hvac and see how it goes while the sound in on.

    Also try going up or down the temp knob and see if sound goes.

    If not maybe radio? Try unplugging it?

  13. I have an o5 bpe 3.0 5eat and it LOVES castrol transmax multivehicle.

    I had it flushed used about 14L of the castrol stuff and reset the tcu through freessm

    And knocks went away. Mind you its like a baaaaam when it knocks. Not like a little knock, like a baaaang knock. So yeah went away pkus added benefit of smoother shifting

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