steve118

would a dodgy fitting on the intercooler be a likely cause of this?

will be a very long process but i suppose its all i can try

yeh mine used to boost a lot higher. have you never heard of the ECU/Check Engine Light causing the boost cut? Because it is pretty much always cut at 10psi. after driving a long time it sometimes studders at about 3/4psi. unplugging the battery didnt do anything, cel is still there.

battery is unplugged right now. will plug it back in, in the morning, and see what i find. and yes, happens when controller is off also

it used to change at around 14psi on primary, but check engine light is causing boost cut? am i right? i tried on motorway earlier and it got to 10 and cut

boost still cuts at 10psi but i set the controller to changeover at the point just before primary reaches 10psi so it is a lot better than before. i still put it down to being a faulty controller though.

Yep. Only issue was ABS but Alex at highbrook automotive did an excellent job at fixing that

found the button but it didnt clear the check engine light. its a lot nicer to drive now that i can actually use both turbos and i have it set to changeover at around the 9psi mark for primary so it doesnt cut as often. still not perfect though

hmm ok ill go see if i can find it

it came with the japanese bullet connectors. so the wires coming from the ECU have had a bullet style connector crimped onto them. and as for the ones which are spliced into the cables and not actually cutting them (power, rpm, ground etc) they were done by mechanic and most things have been wrapped in electrical tape

never been a fan of soldering. been crimping.

drove for about 8-10 minutes. kept on flashing code 62. i have unplugged the battery so ill check again in a short while

so it turns out that the grey wire (pressure differential sensor) was spliced into the wrong one. put it into the correct one and the primary and secondary both boost fine, just need to clear the check engine light. plug both the black and both the green connectors together under the dash and drive over 20kmh for a few minutes?

holy subaru thank you so much bro. cant wait for daylight so i can get out there and check the wiring!!

none of those ECU pinouts match mine

a bit difficult without having the wires right in front of me... ill check again in the morning

is my wiring correct? this is just going by trying to match it up on computer and not actually looking at the ecu referring to this:

that translated manual will work wonders for checking the wiring thanks heaps

worth a try i guess. challenge for tomorrow

i only had it at those settings for testing purposes. finding someone who has one installed here in auckland is proving to be quite difficult.

set to 4000 crossover 3300 return point. the primary seems to follow this ok

just tried it again with bonnet open. ticking noise i could hear is coming from front left guard. couldnt really tell if the ECV was moving or doing anything at all as the fans were so loud. but i drove it once again and secondary turbo comes on with controller off and doesnt come on with controller on

so if i go back and plug green connectors together i should hear that thing clicking or moving?

how can i tell? where would i look?

nah im sure it was secondary, the primary got to like 9 then around 4250 rpm secondary kicked in and i could feel it. and it was a lot harder than just primary. any idea how long the drive is down to tga from auckland?