KingCole
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Posts posted by KingCole
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Hi guys,
Just wanted a turbo inlet fabricated for STI v8 in the Auckland region preferably over the weekend as I need the car for work. If anyone is keen, pm me please.
Thanks
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Are their oxygen sensors genuine?
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I'm probably going to go for this clarion amp http://www.wavetech.co.nz/Clarion-XR2220.html paired with the jbl's I mentioned. There's some talk of clarion amps being overlooked as pretty good amps and I just stumbled across this. Do quality components amped really blow away factory sound setups? I find at highway speed/traveling my sound turns to ****
This amp has one 30amp fuse, most wiring kits have 60amp fuses in the power lead. Is that ok?
Are any of the wiring kits on trademe any good? Looking for 100% oxygen free.
Does anyone know what size speakers fit in a 1999 legacy b4 depth etc?
I have had no issues with the quality of sound of my component speakers etc at high speed even with the loud exhaust. I have run some Soundstream components rated at 100RMS+ without an amp and even they did not have any sound quality issues at high speeds.
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Well I'm thinking probably these jbl components http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=974808270
Would the amp I mentioned be suitable/unsuitable for those?
The amp is bit more powerful than the speakers are rated to run on. From my personal experience, I wouldn't run an amp that is rated higher RMS than the speaker can handle especially if you listen to music at high volumes. I am sure many people do the opposite and have no issues as it all depends on the quality of the speakers and amp.
Many amps claim to make a specific power but don't actually make the quoted power. With my Rockford amp, I got a cert from factory that had measured the exact power output and it was underrated.
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I ran a Rockford fosgate amp 100 RMS x 2 (bridged) at 4 ohms for Polk Audio DB6501 components rated at 100rms each. It was way too much power for those speakers (even though they are rated at 100rms each) and I had to recone them last year. Running them at 50RMS at the moment and it's more than enough.
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I have the exact issue. I need to find someone who can help me out with a Vac/boost leak test around Auckland. I replaced the IACV gasket, the IACV itself and cleaned the MAF. Idle is still very low and rough. I got 140km from half a tank from normal driving so it is pretty bad haha. I do have a venty HKS SSQ BOV though.
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Sakon from what i gather yours is a 2.5xtr or near enough. But .63 housing vs .73 or whatnot so hardly apples.
Small housing big turbine works record holding gsr in nz proved that as have many others contrary to the garrett turbine housing flow map raadeera. Mhi do well with small housing big turbine its all about power level, boost target, egbp setup etcetc.
Blouch turbo has a billet compressor wheel. Does the ATP unit have a billet compressor wheel?
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Put on the boost graph on the same link.
Bigger turbines is a blouch 2.5xtr in that line of turbo. In retrospect maybe I should have gone for that one, but it got fairly negative reviews for producing extremely similar power for more lag. Either way I'm pretty happy, it's a great turbo for street driving. I'll put it down the quarter soon to find out how it really goes
You should be able to run mid/late 11s with that setup depending on your driving and launch. The 2.5XTR is a great turbo and so far I haven't seen any negative reviews but maybe because most people put these on 2.5L engines so the extra displacement helps with the spool.
Had a look at the graph and that spools feckin slow for a 2.0L if the run was done in 4th gear. Did your tuner say why this is spooling almost 1000 rpm slower than expected?
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Ya I think the difference between the 1.5 and the 2.5 is the turbine sizing. I don't have a scanner at home so I'll put it up tomorrow at work
On the street its perfect for the brakes/suspension (20th Anniversary edition came with some mild suspension upgrades). Torque is great from a 2L, did some pulls against my mate in a 2014 Diesel Audi SQ5 in 4th/5th from 90kms. It was not close with the powerband from 4000->7000 (and weight
)Lag is noticeable for me especially in up-shifts but that's mostly because the stock VF49 was so fast to make boost
Do you know when you are hitting 23 psi in 4th gear? Thanks
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Nikk10']Good guess! 268.91wkw @ 23 psi 6200rpm/456nm torque at 4770.
Ill post up the dyno tomorrow but its a similar shape from my old tune, peaky mid range torque and hp tailing away after 6.5k...but the extra 70kw/80nm makes a big difference. Glad I shelled out for this turbo, spool is pretty good.
Anyone want to buy a VF49 with 35,000kms or stock sti intercooler
Nice! I bet that would be a blast to drive on the street. Yeap it is expected to fall off after 6.5K but I have seen the 2.5XTR hold more power up top and full boost hits a few hundred rpm later than 1.5XTR. For stock block and daily driving, I would choose 1.5XTR all the way.
[quote name='evowrx said:
Guessing its the smaller turbine gt3071 then. Thats what i based my predictions on lol. Dyno sheet?Yeap it is smaller than GT/X3071 but a very punchy turbo.
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What is the 1.5 just a gtx3071? And whats 10cm in a/r?
2.5XTR is equivalent to GTX3071. The 1.5XTR is just slightly smaller.
10 cm2 is ~0.73 A/R
Blouch turbos are the same as ScoobyClinic turbos except the scoobyclinic range have slightly smaller housings.
I was actually reading up old threads on Blouch 1.5 turbo and Blouch actually used to let people send in their stock turbos and they used to convert them to 1.5 Polka Pickle (non billet as far as I can remember) but the exhaust housing was a restriction on stock turbos so they stopped doing that. However, the benefit was that that it was much cheaper to send the stock turbo for an upgrade and many people thought it was worth it because the midrange was punchy.
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Will post up the dyno. I'm interested to see how the 10cm housing (as fixed for the twin scroll) works for lag and peak power. Poor stock clutch isn't going to last much
. Any recommendations for a stout DD/drag clutch? I think the 10cm housing will only hit full boost ~300rpm or so later than the 8cm housing as per the testing done by TopSpeed on Nasioc. I know most of these tests were done on 2.5L engines but twinscroll setup will help.
There are a lot of options for clutches these days but you can't go wrong with Exedy or ACT Stage 2 or higher heavy duty and/or street friendly clutches.
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Resurrecting my old posts, cheers evowrx for the info.
At EH motors at the moment, Bloch Dom 1.5 twin scroll, id1000s,pump, 3" exhaust now catted
, big fmic.I'd love to hear some speculations on power
(2008 grb ej207) getting dyno tune next week.No hate for the overpriced turbo please
(and 3 port ebcs) 270kw on pump is quite normal for 1.5XTRs at ~23psi. I would love to see the dyno plot and boost plot once it is tuned. Best street setup in my opinion for ej207s and stock location turbo.
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Standard Walbro will get you to 300kw without any issues.
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MasterPower turbos are laggy and average as mentioned above. Holset turbo will easily spool quicker than MasterPower turbo and net you more gains.
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Is the HKS adjustable? Try tightening it up a bit if it is, or just block it off completely to see if it helps. You can get recirc adaptors for the HKS units too:
Will give it a go. Thanks
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I have the same BOV with a similar idle symptom to you, not as bad but very similar....have been thinking about getting a recirc to see if it will help. Will keep an eye on this post.
I will test for boost leaks next week anyway to see if the BOV is leaking. The car was tuned with the BOV on it and did not have any issues till a few weeks ago
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I have some questions on resetting stock ECUs with aftermarket tunes on them.
Car - V8 STI.
Is resetting a good idea if the car is running slightly rich and also has a rough idle? Is it safe to reset if there is an alarm/immobiliser installed in the car?
Rough idle symptoms - If the car is idling with first gear engaged and you blip the throttle then the car would almost stall by dipping the revs and coming back up. AC is not on during this. I am planning to get my IACV cleaned and MAF cleaned prior to reset.
A/F rich symptons - Distinctive Carbon build up on the rear bumper and smell of unburnt fuel. Sadly, I dont have a cable/gauge to log anything so just going but the gut here.
Any help will be appreciated.
Edit: I have a K N Filter, 3" exhaust system and EBCS installed on the car. All the mods have been mapped for
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. Any recommendations for a stout DD/drag clutch? 
(and 3 port ebcs) 
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Any turbo inlet fabricators in Auckland?
in Engine Related
Posted
Not the intake pipe, I want to replace the silicone hose with a metal one. This is the second silicone inlet that collapsed within the span of 3 months. I should have left stock one on but decided to change it for peace of mind due to its age. I thought it would be worth it to ask here before I get one shipped from the states.