pixelplay

Yes I had a really good look at my belt tonight and realized it had all the marks on it so that will make alignment much more simple. That wa my main issue as i was wondering how I could make sure the tension was in the right places on the belt but after reading I think I can now do it easy enough. I just hope my bungling hasn't knocked my valves together. I was pretty careful but the tension on the loaded pulleys kept making then spin over each time i knocked them and then I would have to wind them back one at a time by hand to try again

So its about a tooth out from what your saying and need to turn to the right to align with the circle mark on the block? Also do you think I could swap out the plastic pulleys for metal ones that way undoing them and doing them up becomes a lot easier.?

I have read a bit of the timing info around the place but its been a while since I replaced one and have never replaced a complex one before. I had to go down this rout because the pipework I needed to replace was hidden under the right hand side timing belt sprockets and this meant removing the cams and i don't have a cam lock took plus my cams are plastic wheels that require some specialized tool to get them off. I managed to get them undone and then lined up all the timing markings to what i believe to be the correct places according to a manual I had here. I was quite concerned doing this as I don't really need a wreaked engine right now so am hoping I have done it right. I have included pics so the more clued up people here can tell me if I have it all wrong. I used a clamp to hold the cams in place as they have a habit of springing around if knocked and that's kinda annoying and worrying. I expected some of the cams to be under load but the manual I have one shows the removal tool being used and say use it to lock them also but fails to show how exactly that's done. The left hand side cams are also easily knocked out of alignment but as they are not under tension its easy enough to line them up again. I was seeing how hard it would be using the old belt and trying to sort out the best way to make it all line up. The manual says to leave the bottom pulley off and then add it back last so i had a play at doing things that way. In the pic here its not fitted as I removed it while messing around with it all. My other concern is how to tighten the cam bolt since as i don't have the recommended tool. I was thinking to refit the old belt and then use a spanner on the opposite sprocket to hold it from slipping while I tighten it. The sprockets are plastic variety with no holes so I cant see another way to do it. Anyone have any ideas on how to do this? Any advice around the timing marks and under tension pulleys would be good also as i am not sure if i am being too paranoid with the marks alignment or not.

Got it off in the end but the lips damaged because its so old and had to be rough to get it off. Might have to take another trip to pick a part to look for a replacement. I have added a pic here so you can see how it looks. Have others encountered this also? I am not sure if i am being to concerned about this or not. Maybe I should just see if i can get it connected and not worry about it. Let me know what you think. By the way all the ones at pick a part were either damaged or the same as my one and calling wreakers it seems to be a common issue. I even got quoted $700 +GST by strong for a new one, $370 by Armstrong here in Welly for a new one and $$150 at a wreckers for a second hand one. Seemed over the top pricing for a silly injection molded piece of plastic.

I still cant seem to get that turbo pipe out the way and here are some pics of the part i am talking about to help. This pics a close up showing the location of the hidden bolt Its seems really difficult to remove and i guess if the engine and turbo were out of the car it would be far more simple.

Cheers Scoobydoo, really happy with the kit and cant wait to fit them to the car and get it running again.

Awesome advice guys I was taking it off in the rain at pick a part so wasn't in the best of moods when removing it. One other thing was that under the manifold there is another hosing and it also need removing on my car so I can add a new pipe to it but this also seems to be a bit of a hard one to get the bolts out of. Would you normally pre-soak them in CRC or some other type of release fluid? Is that an easy way to remove the pulley that covers the cam belt as i need to get at the water pump and wasn't sure how to lock the cams to stop them turning as i try to undo the bolts on the center of the pulley?

I was removing the manifold today and had some major issues removing a few bolts and wanted to know if anybody had a more simpler way to do things? One of the issue I had was that one of the manifold bolts was hidden beneath the turbo hose and getting the hose out of the way was not easy at all. I ended up undoing the hose and forcing it off so it was out of the way enough to undo the bolt. It seems a bit extreme but I could find no other way to do it. The second issue was that on each side there are the injectors and removing the bolts was almost impossible ( lucky I was doing this on a pick a part car as i snapped a couple because they were so seized up. do these really need to come off or should they be left in place and the leads just unclipped? Removing the compressor was also an issue because one of the bolts is hidden under the manifold. I notice on my car this bolts been left off I assume because of this. The loom seems to be would around in a number of places is it necessary to unclip it all to make getting the manifold off easily?

Fully happy to buy these from you as i now have the other parts I needed.

The trouble with some of the ebay kits is they are Chinese and not reliable and also they take about 6 weeks to arrive.

No milkiness in the water already checked for that, and also no water in the oil. No bubbles as i was watching for that also, but the crossover pipe was shagged for sure and leaking. I am going to replace that and get it running again and then see how the temp issues go after that. I may also bypass the heater core as a temporary measure and if its still overheating I will then pull the engine and redo the head gaskets.

1997 legacy GT TT

Does anyone know where to buy a full coolant hose kit or is there a better cheaper way to go about replacing all the hoses?

removed the intercooler and started to remove the manifold to sort of the coolant leak issues its having.

I have just bought a 1997 Legacy GT and its has a coolant leak issue. I have started striping the car down and lots of the pipes are really quite shagged from years of neglect. It looks to me like the car has at some stage had no coolant antifreeze added to the car and this has caused the issue. I am wanting to know if anybody else has had this sort of issue and where to get pipes to replaced rusted corroded stuff. The line marked here is one of the ones that in really bad shape. It sits under the manifold and it looked rusted/coroded and I have some sort of leak going on under here. Has anybody else had coolant leak from here before? Would water under here indicate a head gasket issue? I would think it a bit strange myself but you never know. The pipe circled here is another pipe I need to replace its broken in the middle and had loads of dodgy repairs done to it. It runs under the manifold and I suspect down to the waterpump but hard to tell until i remove everything. Hope my questions don't seem too stupid with my questions, but working on one of these cars is very new to me and i am unfamiliar with the layout under the hood.