Percy
-
Posts
531 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by Percy
-
-
didnt fit, stupid bad friend buying a stupid bad 2wd legacy lol
Ahh yes, I had the same issue with my old one, I think new Monroe's were all I could find to fit a 2WD.
From my admittedly dodgy memory they were about $150-175 for the pair?
I will have a look for the part numbers, might still have the receipt, or I could have a look at them in the car I suppose!
-
Yeah I found a few on ebay but they seem to be fairly expensive for something chinese made.
Could go straight to China? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/turbo-air-intake-hose-for-subaru-legacy-B4E-twin-turbo/1759477337.html
-
Thanks Percy, appreciate it man. I'm not going to register the vehicle, so hope this makes things a little easier...
No problem!
Last time I looked at it was a few years ago when I was thinking of building a 4WD trials truck, I could get an old Nissan Safari in no worries, just couldn't register it.
Things may have changed now though.
-
I have talked to these guys http://import2order.co.nz/ about importing a car, seemed very knowledgeable, and very helpful.
Not as cheap as doing it yourself of course, as you are paying for their services, but removes the risk of importing something that can't be put on the road!
Another place to look is here http://www.beforward.jp/, some very cheap cars there, however you have to know which ones can and can't be certified here under the current regs.
If you only want a track car though, there are some very interesting things to be found in Japan!
-
Most race supply/performance shops should be able to supply proper heat resistant brake duct hose, but it is quite pricey. If you don't want to fork out for that stuff then go to your local Blackwoods Protector (or Hose Supplies) store and ask for some TPR (Thermo Plastic Rubber) Duct hose. This works well and is a fair bit cheaper than the "proper" duct hose. Comes in a range of sizes so should be something to suit your set-up.
TPR is the stuff I used years ago on my old Hillman Hunter, worked pretty well and never melted, and as they weren't vented the brakes on that thing would get HOT!!
Like turn the discs blue and set the dust on fire hot.
-
I'm with AMI, have been since my first car waaaaay back in 1990, yes I'm old!!
$300 excess, only $38 a month, yay for being old!
-
OG CS'er named leaking BOV noise as George
sounds like someone blowing across the top of a milk bottle
Ahhh, didn't notice any noise like that, might have to turn the Doof Doof down to hear it.
I havn't had the car long enough to know if it was always there, and the cracked TMIC factory pipe may have been masking it or causing other weirdness which is now gone with the new silicone pipes.
I'll try cleaning everything in sight, and the bits out of sight in the BBOD etc, including teh MAF sensor if possible.
Might need some more evil cleaning chemicals...
-
Do you have a boost gauge and when the power surges does the boost also surge/flutter slightly?
Sometimes when cruising in mine id hit a slight incline keeping the same throttle position load would come on slightly and boost would build a little and drop and so on, it would feel somewhat like you have described. just the wastgate having a little trouble figuring out what to do with itself. if i applied a little more throttle it would sort itself out but the TT wastgate always seemed a little touchy on primary when cruising. Ross is probably right but that's just my two cents
No boost gauge yet, that does sound and feel like what its doing, speed changes about 2-3kph each time.
Seems to do it less at 110+, possibly cos the throttle is open more, or its less noticeable.
-
-
-
So I went for a blat in teh GTB today, and noticed it surges sometimes when cruising at 100k, cos I would never go over 100k cos thats like illegal and stuff...
Anyway it almost feels like the aircon compressor coming on and off, but far more noticeable, yet happens when the aircon is off or on.
I havent had time to clean out teh BBOD yet, so would it be something in there?
Or a leaky hose somewhere?
-
Replace all the suspension bushes, as they're all rogered.
Replace all the rubber in the engine bay, preferably with silicone, as its all old and beginning to be dodgy!
-
You can make o-rings up in any size you like, just need the material and some superglue.
I used to do it all the time at work, for random water cooling passages in plastic injection dies.
-
-
Ahhh yes, wrong Nordy!
I know of CJ through another website she was active on a while ago.
-
"Nordy" isn't a chick called Sharon from Wellington is she?
-
That would be fine I'm sure, as long as its in 90% the correct shape that's all I'm after, cheers!
-
I've had an idea...
Which involves making a replacement for the factory air intake setup on my BH5 GTB, which is currently in use, making it tricky to measure etc.
So does anyone in the Canterbury area have one lying around I could beg/ borrow/ flog for a while?
-
I decided the factory turbo to intercooler hoses needed to go as one was cracked anyway, so some silicone ones arrived on my desk at work on Friday, thanks to Speedfactor!
So today being all sunny and stuff, the time had come to fit them, and clean out the PCV valve under the throttle body while it was accessible.
The assistant seemed a little slack on it...
Intercooler came of relatively easily
Then the trouble started!
Trying to get the hoses off the PCV valve, the 3way fitting thing coming out of the block fell apart, those 230k k's had taken their toll on the plastic.
And then the hose that goes from the block to the 3way fitting actually split when I was getting the clamp off it, so it was obviously past its use by date!
Long story short, a trip to Supercheap, and some radiator hose and a brass fitting later its all ghetto'd back together, and the PCV valve is clean finally.
No pictures of this bit, to much swearing, and the phone didn't like the sunlight of the couple I tried to take!
All back and running, with extra blueness!
Seems to go a bit better, in the short blat around the block, and is in less risk of leaking boost and oil everywhere!
-
-
So if one was to be removing the TMIC, to replace dodgy old intake hoses with silicone, then it would be a good idea to clean the PCV valve out while its off yah?
Having had a sqizz at it, I have no idea how you'd get at it without taking the TMIC off, unless you have hands and arms like an octopus... which I don't... mine are more like sausages...
-
Sweet! I've been looking for something like this!
there you go, thread moved
-
-
Oh yes, great success!!
No CEL's, no random loss of boost, goes like it should when applying jandal.
Let the enhancements begin!
Like replacing the turbo to IC hoses, as one has a crack in it, dodgily repaired with a soldering iron, a MTB inner tube, and a metric s%$#tload of zipties, which will hopefully last until the silicone ones arrive...
-
Who's Online 2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 280 Guests (See full list)
Funny crackling through stereo on full throttle.
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
So today I happened to drive along at cruise throttle in second then booted it, and when the old VOD/ turbo transition thingy happened at 4-4500ish rpm, a funny crackling noise came through the stereo and the engine did lots of hesitating and farting around.
It only lasted a couple of seconds, and didn't happen the next time I used full throttle straight from closed, only seemed to be when going from cruise throttle up to full noise.
Anybody have any idea what going on?
Things I have thought of are a dodgy earth somewhere, the throttle position sensor being a bit dicky, or maybe the MAF sensor?
Any one of which is possible as the car has done 230k...
The only one of those that could cause the crackling would be the dodgy earth I would have thought.