Percy
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Posts posted by Percy
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I've recently changed the motor in my BH5 GTB, cost $1500 for the replacement engine from an importer and with a guarantee of some description, and I bunged it in myself.
If you have never done anything like changing an engine before, a twin turbo Subie is possibly not the best place to start, unless you have a mate who has done it before!
They aren't like changing a Datsun 120Y motor in 45 minutes in a shed with no hoist...
So as boon said $3.8k is probably not bad for getting it done by someone else.
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The whole thing is fcking stupid, it's twice the weight for zero gain, unless it maybe makes it sound like something way different (this is very doubtful)
I have wondered what a twin turbo would sound like with a separate zorst all the way to the back off each turbo... civilised primary, dragon coming to eat your babies secondary!
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Might be for extra round clearance, maybe?
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Hi guys,
Our BG5 Legacy front passenger window switch has stopped working, and I;m trying to track down a replacement. Does anyone know if the switch itself is the same unit as rear passenger & drivers side too, or unique to front passenger?
What would you guys expect to pay for this via wreckers?
cheers
From memory all the single switches are the same, I can have a look at them tonight just to check tho.
You can also swap the surrounds over if you get one off the other side.
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The piston arrangement in mine was identical to a decent motorbike damper. Just a directional-flow-ported piston with a shim stack on each side.
They are remarkably simple internally, a lot of mechanics I talk to (and people on here, probably by flow-down effect) treat them like they're some sort of incredibly complex black art and having had one completely disassembled in front of me I can't really understand it.
Good to know they're simpler than most MTB dampers these days!
Means they might be easy to royally fubar up the damping, but easy to un-fubar as well, which is the fun part.
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Not Bilsteins, but I got the seals locally. Only the bushings had to come from sveeeeeeden.
Which seal has failed? As they're inverted struts I can't see them being that different to mine.
The wiper seals on the lower strut housing will probably be common as mud but they don't really "fail", they just wear out and let crap get into the lower.
If the strut is dumping oil then it's the piston shaft o-ring in the insert's cylinder head that is probably on the way out.
I'll take photos when I do the rears and make a how-to although mine will be a bit a different.
I got my seals from Seal Imports
Not sure if the seals have failed or not, just interested to find a source for them, so I can rebuild them myself when the time comes.
They probably need it, as they've done 240k... which probably means the bushings are shot.
And I was planning on messing with the damping in the track hacks shocks, when its going.
Also I like playing with things, like changing the damping and stuffs, can't be that different from my mountain bikes or dirt bikes dampers!
There's only so many ways to control oil flowing through ports.
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After acquiring the required bits all the way from Sweden, I completely stripped then re-shimmed and reconditioned my front struts.
Ashamed to say I made them a whole lot softer and also raised the car by about 1cm.
But it is much better for it.
Rears to be done this week, then a fresh wheel alignment and corner weight from Macbilt and she'll be ready for summer thrashing.
Once I replace the passenger side rocker cover gasket :<
Bilstein bits?
Cos I am looking for a sauce of seals etc for them...
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Pulled the front door to bits to find out why the speaker keeps dropping out, found someone had half stripped a section of the tweeter wire somehow.
That would do it I guess!
And also found it still had the original speakers in it, which were all poked.
So off to Supercheap I went, $120 later and it now has some cheap ass Fusion things in it, which sound pretty good for the moolah.
I can now hear all of the guitars in Megadeth anyway, which is the main thing!
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Having looked hard at both the GT and the 3.0R, I would recommend driving both, the 3.0r is a pretty rapid bit of kit.
Its also very easy and relaxing to drive when not getting on it.
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Flashing procedure courtesy of Matt (throttlehappy)
Backup the factory map
Early model ones are a *****. Green plugs together are just under the driver side dash near left knee BUT there is also a flash connector plug as well for flashing in new tunes(stock tune can be sucked out without it) If it is a single white plug with 2 wires on it, with the terminals in a T shape then its easy to permanently cut the plug off and join the wires:
Otherwise it is a 4 wire plug like this:
Left side get bridged together and then right side together so 2 loops etc
From there, to flash in the tune... turn ignition ON just before pressing Enter key to start loading tune
I take no responsibility for you blowing up your engine.
Is that for RevD only, or will it work on RevC etc as well?
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Wanna try my AFM?
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No, it costs like 20c or something stupid like that. I remember it being really cheap
From memory its about $17, that might be per plate though, so $34 a car?
I had to replace one due to accident damage once, it was about 10 years ago though, info might be on the LTSA website somewhere.
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Which mount/s should I be looking at for harshness with on and off the throttle?
Bit of a thump with a sudden back off, if that makes sense. Or a real hard shift I get a bit of thump from gearboxy region (I am assuming I have answered my own question actually). Normal use it's fine
Second question - best/cheapest/most ghetto way to take all the slop out of the gearshift, it's pretty good compared to most (we're not talking rowing in a box of marbles RS legacy spec) but I'd like to get closer to the rifle-bolt/type r honda-with-brass-bushes solid I prefer
A broken rubber one, hur hur!
Ahem, I used a plastic bush and a shoulder bolt I had lying around from my old work, and just hacked/turned the bush down to fit with a file and a drill.
Excedingly ghetto, but it worked!
It was to replace the pinned on one in the linkage under the car, the big ass round bush at the gearbox end I chucked a Superpro bush in, the funky square one at the lever end on the chassis I just wrapped the end of the shaft with shrink wrap until it was tight again.
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Was actually Saturday, just managed to extract the pics off the bloody phone...
Painted the TT downpipes I got with the track hack, hopefully can get them on my daily this weekend, no moar cats woop woop!
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Maybe talk to Macbilt? I'm 99% sure they built my clevis mounts and they have an obscene amount of camber adjustment which I will never actually use.
Being inverted struts it's relatively easy to remove the insert and then you're safe enough to weld onto the clevis, mine have kinda like 2 little tracks with a very large eccentric washer located by a flat on the shaft of the bolt, similar to the whiteline ones only way more industrial and the washer/track combination helps it stay where you put it.
EDIT: The clevis hole is slotted horizontally and the tracks are at 90 degrees to the slot, the washer moves up and down the track which causes the off-centre bolt to slide along the slot. There's no lobe on the bolt so it's the full thickness and once you torque it all up it's not going to move as you have the entire face of the washer (on both sides) as a friction surface, plus the forces required to rotate the assembly are in a quite different direction to normal.
I would estimate there would be close to 20mm in horizontal movement between maximum and minimum camber, a lot more than a lobed bolt is ever going to get you as it's limited by the size of the hole it has to pass through.
That sounds like teh same setup that Valiants have from factory, might investigate doing that to teh Track Hack, front and rear.
If it works some may find their way onto the daily...
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Got the track hack home, needs a couple of bits to make it go...
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Pfft, whats the point doing a car up if you're not going to E-document it like where's the point, ew wtf omg swag yolo
On that note
Waterproofed pod filter location - was getting a bit wet in severe rain somehow, flicking up into the front wing at speed. Now only can get ingress through foglight hole and past the IC piping, win - filter can't get wet and has only ambient feed
STi front strut bar on, results slim to none but it does look shiny thru the bonnet scoop and has pink bits. Might have firmed up the front, might not, placebo effect a solid 8/10 tho
Ebay silicone TT inlet pipe ordered, ebay then trawled for crap for far too much time afterwards, results = empty wallet, performance gain TBC, I'm just hoping for more wooshy noises if I'm totally honest
Adjustable pressure switch acquired for new backyard-povo-spec boost control master plan
Plan immediately failled when the stock boost control solenoid was unplugged to re-purpose = check engine light and limp mode, trip to pickapart tomorrow to scam one out of a BG
Results TBC
Lol!! WTF BBQ!?!?
I have a memory like a sieve, so usually remember pics after I've finished doing whatever it was that I wanted to take pics of! Derp!
I am interested in the results from the silicone TT inlet pipe.
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Kol12's not quite right B4
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Quiet you in the RevD seats...