[Front pipe replaced.]

I am not sure if my gauge reads true. It seems like the boost level was reading high to start with. I did a bit of reading before replacing front pipe. Found this.

Due to emission standards, Subaru included a

catalytic converter

in the uppipe on the 2.0L WRXs ('02-'05). This is an issue because the

catalytic converter

has been known to break apart and subsequently get sucked into the turbo. This has since been fixed on the 2.5L vehicles.

If the "preventative maintenance" aspect doesn't entice you to do this modification, the power benefits should. You should see an increase in spool time by 500RPM (or more), and ~10hp gain. The best part about these gains is that there is no tune required to see the benefits like with some other power modifications.

A few "horror shots" showing the carnage of someone whose uppipe let go (pictures from a Nasioc

thread

by Davenow):

This can happen at stock power levels (a local guy here just went through this ordeal when his stock '04 WRX uppipe let go and grenaded his turbo), and the risk increases exponentially as you modify the vehicle. Any "StageII" package, even if not specified in the map notes, should include this modification.

To remedy this, it is imperative that you remove the

catalytic converter

from the uppipe as soon as possible. You have three options:

1) Gut the OEM one

2) Purchase an OEM STi or '06/'07 WRX uppipe (these were all catless from the factory)

3) Purchase an aftermarket uppipe

Gutting the OEM uppipe is the cheapest option. This only requires hardware not readily available to you, and new gaskets (~$50 from your local dealership). I have helped many people gut their OEM uppipe. If you don't have access to a vice to hold the uppipe, having a second set of hands will help, but isn't required (I've done them by myself). I've had good results using a long drill bit, a long flat-head screwdriver, a rubber mallet, some built-up aggression, and a 6-pack to get the majority of the cat material out. Once it's complete, I take a drill bit with a wire brush to do a final cleanup (you don't want to be lazy here) - a good flashlight (or even a snakelight) will help you see any spots you may have missed. Make sure you do this in a well-ventilated area (I've always done this outside), and use some form of respiratory protection (the cheap paper face masks are pretty cheap and do the job). The entire process usually takes me about an hour to complete being thorough (not accounting for removal/installation if necessary). Most people I have helped have purchased a second uppipe to allow us to gut one while having no downtime on their vehicle (they can then install the gutted one at their leisure), and sell theirs for the same price they paid. There is some belief that the hallowed out

catalytic converter

creates some turbulence, which would make this the least effective method.

Purchasing an OEM 2.5L uppipe saves you the hassle of gutting and purchasing any tools you do not have (or can't borrow). These can usually be found for ~$75 used, and also requires new gaskets. There is no cat to hallow out, so this should theoretically offer better airflow compared to a gutted OEM uppipe.

Purchasing an aftermarket uppipe is arguably the best option, considering the funds are available. A quality uppipe should run in the $150-250 range (figure ~$50 less if purchased used), plus the cost of new gaskets. Aftermarket uppipes tend to offer better airflow compared to OEM 2.5L ones (see TiC's thread

here

). With an aftermarket uppipe, there are two types: solid and flex. The OEM 2.5L uppipe came with a flex section, so it's my opinion that it was done for a reason, and you should stick with a flex section uppipe.

Subaru included an EGT sensor in the OEM 2.0L uppipes as a precautionary measure to check the healthiness of the catalytic converter. Since you're going to be removing the cat, it is no longer necessary to run this (EGT should be measured in the

exhaust

manifold for accurate readings anyway). Reusing the stock EGT sensor is only going to run the risk of that breaking off and getting sucked into the turbo, causing damage. If the uppipe you're installing has an EGT bung, then use a bolt (M12 x 1.25) to plug the hole.

There is a CEL associated with this modification that needs to be taken care of: P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input). This is often disabled with "StageII" maps, but if you're running the stock map, you'll need to do the "2.2 KOhm resistor mod". You can buy these at any electronics store (e.g., RadioShack), and should cost you ~$1. This resistor gets placed in the bottom connector just in front of the passenger strut tower.

On the topic of "

eBay

" uppipes, I would recommend against them. The quality of materials used is generally lower than of a reputable company, the gaskets supplied tend to be garbage, and the fitment isn't always great. You are far better off gutting your OEM uppipe if you cannot afford to purchase an OEM 2.5L or quality aftermarket one. One issue with material quality with "

eBay

" uppipes is the flex sections used, which have been known to break apart. Another set of pictures taken from Davenow (see

post

) showing a popular "eBay" brand uppipe that is sold by many vendors:

This post was written in hopes to make it easier for members to find information (I got tired of searching for Dave's thread). If anyone has any comments/suggestions for improving this, please feel free.

[Front pipe replaced.]

So would running this higher boost cause me problems down the track. It runs great like this, power is awesome.

[Front pipe replaced.]

Hi All. Thought I would share what I have had done recently. Had a Rage front pipe put on my V8 STI. It replaces the stock front pipe/cat converter. The result has amazed me. The turbo now spools way quicker. Before max boost was approx. 18psi. Now , with no other mod other than the pipe, is approx. 23psi. This mod has given a better low down response which I was hoping for. MPG I think is about the same or so it seems to me. Exhaust note is slightly louder but not by much. You can now here the turbo spooling more than you could before. Sounds like a jet engine powering up.

If anyone was thinking of doing this mod then in my case this was a huge success.

[What position do you normally set DCCD?]

Hey guys. I have DCCD on my V8 sti. Normally I run it set on auto. The dial is all the way forward. (Not sure if the dial does anything when set on auto).

What position do you normally use.

[Fuel Tank.....]

It doesn't really bother me, just found it odd. Always behaves consistently like that. Will try running it lower see if that makes a difference. Cheers.

[Fuel Tank.....]

Hey all. When I fill my V8 Scoobie fuel tank. It reads full then only a short drive later, (approx. 40k's) the needle falls down to between full and three quarters. After that the drop is how I would expect it to be. Has anyone else noticed how quickly the initial drop is? Or is this unique to me? Also why are the tanks so small:confused: Ok nuff said.

[Post Your Impreza/WRX/STI Photos Here!]

Very nice. Looks real aggressive in black. Then I am biased, mine is the same as yours.

[How to improve low down torque.]

I have heard of them. Good to get a recommendation. I will give them a go. Cheers

[How to improve low down torque.]

Thanks for the info. Anyone recommend a decent tuner?

[How to improve low down torque.]

Hi All. I am after your words of wisdom on how to improve the low down torque on my Version 8 STI.

It has a big bore and a GFB adjustable BOV.

Once that turbo kicks in it has all the power I need right now but lower down is disappointing.

Any advise?....Cheers

[Annoying as heck metallic rattle from GC8 Type Ra]

Spray some wd40 on the boot hinges. Might sound daft but I also had an annoying squeak/rattle coming from the rear passenger side. I tracked it down to dry hinges. So I spayed the heck out of any moving part there. Result.....sound gone. Worth a try.

[Impreza gc8 not starting]

Did the issues start after you worked on it? If so something must have been altered or damaged. Try and retrace your steps.....again. Failing that I would take it in to a reliable mech to read any possible fault codes. I don't think just removing the engine check light will stop you reading the codes. Good luck with it.

[What engine oil to use.]

Seems like 5w or 10w30 is the general way to go. What adv/disadv woukld a 10w60 give.

[What engine oil to use.]

Not sure when the oil and filter was done on my version 8 STi. Do you have any recommendations on what to use over winter?

Its done about 137000 k's and all seems to do what it should do. Cheers

[Post Your Impreza/WRX/STI Photos Here!]

This is my recently bought Sti V8. It has been lowered on king springs and runs factory boost. I have never owned a Subaru before. Have to say the grip in the corners and the power when the turbo kicks in is unreal. Should have got one ages ago.

[What is correct oil temp]

Thanks for the info. I guess I am in the right range.

[What is correct oil temp]

Hi All

I have a 2003 version 8 wrx sti. It has a oil temp gauge fitted.

I noticed that when the weather was hot and my a/c was on, the oil temp would read about 75 degrees C.

Now it is cooler outside, no a/c. The oil temp reads about 65 degrees C. (150 Degrees Fahrenheit)

Does anyone know what the approx. normal oil temp should be?.....Cheers

[Version 8 boost question.]

Ok cheers. Guess that means I am off for a blast lol

[Version 8 boost question.]

I will check what its actually making. So is 1.3 Bar the factory set pressure. Cheers

[Version 8 boost question.]

Thanks guys for the help. Sorry about the daft question.

[Version 8 boost question.]

Doh!! I pressed the select then + to increase the bar pressure. I wrongly thought this increased the pressure. So how do I use this controller? cheers

[Version 8 boost question.]

Hi All. I have just bought a 2003 version 8 sti. I noticed it has a Genome boost controller. The turbo pressure is currently set to 1 bar. What is the safe pressure to operate at. It has a big bore exhaust and very soon I will fit a adjustable BOV. I am fairly new to the turbo tuning game so any help greatly taken. Also any pointers on how to use the controller? Cheers.