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glion

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Posts posted by glion

  1.  alfie said:
    I use SCC Super Z6 on my bh5 http://www.peerlesschain.com/brands/traction/traction-product-choices/super-z6-tire-chains/. They don't need much clearance and are the easiest chains I've ever put on (I could do about a minute each wheel). Traction is as good as any regular tyre chain I've used.

    Just checked and they make them in your size. Also I haven't noticed any damage to the wheels from using them. If I remember correctly only plastic and rubber parts make contact with the wheel itself.

    looks like these are low clearance, 6mm. Expensive here in NZ at ~$280 for something I might never use.

    Looks like i'll use YouShop and get them from Amazon ~$160

  2. Is anyone out there running snow Chains on a 2007+ Sti with the Factory 245/40/118 wheels?

    I've been told the manual forbids the use of chains (can't confirm as Japanese) and that their is not enough clearance between the wheel and suspension anyway.

    Getting some for the wheel size is easy, its whether or not there is clearance to use them safely....

    Then their is the potential if I can get them to fit.... will they scratch the wheels....

  3.  Zenki said:
    The idea is to match the RPMs of the engine with the wheels.

    If you're cruising along at 2000 RPM and you skip a couple of gears when you downshift, the engine has to be turning 5000 RPM when you get off the clutch - either you blip the throttle and spin it up beforehand or you get a big jerk when the engine is reconnected with the transmission.

    I totally understand if you blip or rev the engine enough to cover the gap between the gears the motion of the car will be smooth. I'm only talking whether or not bliping the throttle will make the gear shift movement smoother.... all completed while the clutch is pressed.

  4. I was talking to my friend the other day, he was saying that on downshifts he blips the throttle to make the shift smoother.

    I'm trying to make sense of the mechanics of this...

    If we take the situation where the downshift skips a few gears to make the situation more extreme.

    Lets say I'm going along in 4th and change down to 1st.

    My friend seems to think that without bliping the throttle, either the gear will grind, it wont go in, or it will be difficult to get in.

    Is this true will bliping the throttle make the change smoother?

    It my under standing of gearboxes that once the clutch is pressed, bliping the throttle will have zero affect on the grearbox, the connect is just not their.

    Double clutching (hes not double clutching on the downshift) I can see would help. Put clutch, put in neutral, release clutch, rev engine to spin up the clutch, clutch in, change to first. This will help match the speeds of the input and output shafts making the change smooth.

    I may not have explained this very well.... in one line.... Will bliping the throttle on a downshift help with the change?

  5.  evowrx said:
    Let it warm for 30-60 sec then try it.

    Yes, if i let it warm up then there is no issue. Is this a standard Subaru issue?

    Its subtle and its not really a big issue, its just that it could be better. If it was something like bad plugs, or easy to fix then i'm keen to fix it.

    If the RPM is kept high over 2500/3000 then it doesn't really show.

  6. Who has a good Tyre recommendation or alternatively a Tyre to avoid?

    I'll soon be in the market for a new set of tires I'd like to spend from $200 - $300 per Tyre. Looking for the best Price vs Performance vs Wear compromise.

    I was in at the Subaru dealership the other day and they had some very cheap prices listed on the wall. I asked about the brand, he said although it was something i'd never heard of before. He went on to say that their are only 3 Tyre manufactures in Asia, hence they come out of the same factory so their as good as a branded Tyre. I doubt this to be true, although if someone know of re-branded tires at a discount, it would be good to know.

    Vehicle: 2010 Impreza Sti

    Tyre size: 245/40R18

  7. When the car is cold the power delivery doesn't seem to be very smooth. It only takes about 30 seconds and then it back to normal. This only happens in the morning as the car has been sitting overnight. If I go to the shops for an hour I think the engine must retain a little heat and it runs fine.

    Its like the power comes and goes a bit, could be described as a surge in power then its back.

    What would a likely cause of this be? Hasn't been serviced in ~17,000Km I've changed the engine and box oil though.

    2011 JDM 2.0L Turbo Sti.

  8.  evowrx said:
    Is the dccd or front mechanical. I have nfi how dccd works. Viscous diffs are sealed so no lsd requirement just need a gl5. You are getting ripped on gear oil. I can sell you a semi synthetic 85w90 gl5 lsd for 50ish. Perfectly fine for any lsd box/diff.

    I'm not sure, its my understanding the Gearbox needs a oil without a friction multiplier, yet the rear diff needs the friction multiplier.

    I've looked it up and all in know is the rear has a Torsen LSD. Can't find out what the front one combined with the gearbox is.

    What oil can you supply?

  9. I've been looking into gearbox and diff oils. I'm trying to work out what the best oil vs price is.

    Gearbox 4.3l

    Diff 1l

    Most recommended seems to be (Prices approx):

    GEARBOX

    Redline 75W90NS GL-5 - $180 (4.7l)

    Motul Gear300 - $240 (5l)

    Castrol Syntrax - $150 (5l)

    DIFF

    Redline 75W90 GL-5 - $39 (946ml could be a touch short)

    Motul 90PA - $48 (2l, Twice as much as needed for this price)

    At the moment it looks like a Castrol and Motul mix.

    Anyone else got a recommendation or a source of good cheap oil?

  10. Any idea what sort of performance you are expecting from this? The factory one is bell mouth, unless the cats are a massive restriction it doesn't look to bad.

    Would you do this front pipe first, or do the cat back?

    Do you know much much he wants for these?

  11.  kwi_fozze said:
    Unfortunately that torque app only works with international spec cars, not jdm imports....

    Tbh, save yourself spending the cash twice, just get a tactrix cable

    I brought a ~$6 OBDII dongle from Aliexpress and it work fine with my JDM 2011 Sti and the Torque App. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-Hottest-ELM-327-V1-5-Interface-Works-On-Android-Torque-Elm327-Bluetooth-OBD2-OBD-II/511196209.html

    I also just purchased a Tractx from Aliexpress, only last night ~$60 will have to let you know the quality of that later. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-price-Tactrix-Openport-2-0-ECUFLASH-Tactrix-Openport-2-0-ECU-Chip-Tunning-Free-Shipping/32323156603.html

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