heylinb4nz
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Posts posted by heylinb4nz
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This is one of my personal favorites for removing an engine. Instructions (remove oil pressure, apply plenty of engine load)
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Just looked into it, it's basically just white spirits up to 80% with an additional alcohol solution mixed in, Plus a additive for the smell.
think I will just make my own up and go with that.
Ive used that as well, white spirits..no wonder it works well, I though it mainly citrus extract.
Will stick with the WD40 for now..although I wax my cars so often tar doesnt get a chance to stick.
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Here is a $13 option + you get way more
Yep...good old WD40, safe for your paint and dissolves tar like mofo !! (also good on adhesives..like old window tint film, or sticker residue)
I find if you add a little fine cut compound to the wipe rag it also helps.
Dont forget to wax the surface after .
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Sounds like clutch drag, clutch is still semi engaged and locking you out of shifting.
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Do you work for Adrenaline
Nope, i've just always used their product in my exhaust installs. Works of art, amazing sound, great price, I like to share a great NZ made product when I find one.
Here is one I did for my MR2.
Ive used Blitz and Fujitsubo products before and must say Adrenalin R is on par if not well ahead in terms of quality and sound.
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Unequal length headers
. But if you're after a sportier sound for your S-GT Id highly recommend Adrenalin R muffler\mufflers made in NZ with one of their midpipe 300mm resonators.
They can supplier mufflers of correct dimensions.
Do you plan to just do mufflers ? or the whole system upto the front pipe ?
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Currently I am running a Pioneer Shallow Mount 8" rated at 120RMS in a small sealed box under seat. This is powered by a CLarion APX2121 Bridged to 160RMS x 1.
I recently picked up a Clarion APX1301 mono amp 1 X 320RMS
and wonder is there any advantages of running an even higher amount of headroom ?, easy enough to swap amps out, but if I dont need it I may consider selling.
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Falken ZE912 on all my cars.
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Thanks evowrx,
are you talking about one like this - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-942548062.htm
BG 1993 - 1998
BE\BH 1998 - 2004
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Hi Guys,
Looking for some help upgrading my fog lights bulbs on my 2005 Subaru Legacy B4 LTD to LED.
From the research I've done it seems they take H3 bulbs. (Hopefully that's correct?)
I'm wanting to change them up with some blue LED bulbs like these here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-H3-Car-11W-High-Power-Blue-CREE-Chip-LED-Fog-Light-Daytime-Running-Bulb-/171865886060?hash=item2804014d6c&vxp=mtr
The other question I have is how in the world do you get to them? There doesn't seem to be any easy way.
Wouldnt go blue, you will run into issues with WOF trust me ive had that argument with them and I was running pure white. Besides pure white will match your HIDs better.
Id also suggest getting a few W5W leds and doing your park lights, number plate, reverse bulbs, door courtesy lights...makes the car look very classy.
FYI Aliexpress will be your best supplier of bulbs, many many to choose from.
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So 6MT front diffs don't share fluid with the rest of the gearbox like 5MTs?
Mine was 5EAT so had to get 2 lots of fluids.
Pretty sure the 5MT and 6MT share front so you can just by X number of litres of Redline to do the whole job.
Im not sure how the 75W90NS goes in diffs (I run 75W90 in mine) but apparently the NS is good for manual gearbox syncros, helps shifting).
Unless the legacy runs clutch type LSDs then the 75W90NS should be good to go all around.
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+1 , 3K gets you way more options, id be weary buying any turbo Subaru with over 180,000kms.
My pick based on quick TradeMe search would be this NA Wagon (Clutch done and Cambelt done)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-934418335.htm
At the risk of getting flamed if cheap and reliable are key then perhaps Toyota Corolla ??
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/toyota/auction-944119936.htm
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Flyboys's got a 6mt
Will the 5 lower make much difference? Unless you're deep south is NZ really cold enough to make all that much difference?
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/CastrolRetailNzl/
I used that. Use 07-08 2.5gt though as thats the only way to get the 6mt selection.
Doubt it, within the first few minutes of driving your fluid would be heading towards it operation temp viscosity anyway.
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Some options here
$187 NZ shipped (non genuine)
$308NZ + shipping (genuine)
https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=22641AA042
$297NZ shipped (genuine)
could also try RHD Japan
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Are me talking Manual or Auto ?
For manual the recommended fluid is 75W90 GL5, Subaru will most likely have their own spec fluid (Subaru Extra S), but you cant go wrong with Red Line Lubricants. (Pro Wholesale in Tauranga best place to get), 75W90NS will be what you are after
If auto\tiptronic, id reccomend letting Subaru dealer put in their stuff, thats what I did with my 5EAT, 30,000\3 years ago, no shifting issue. Apparently the 5EAT is quite specific with its spec (Subaru ATF-HP)
Don't forget your front and rear differentials, redline 75W90.....or just let Subaru do the lot and use OEM stuff.
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Query the oil as well, the retail price on it is $70 inc GST
Looks like quality stuff. but the 50% mark up is quite rude considering they most likely pay less than $70 a pack (or have it in bulk).
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Yeah I dont buy into the oiled filter \ MAF thing
K&N debunked this already (http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massairfindings.htm)
Real world use, I have ran oiled filters (panel and pod) in all my MAF equipped performance cars anywhere from 3 to 10 years of ownership and putting upto 100,000kms on the cars...not one single MAF failure...this was using Simota + K&N pods and panel filters, pretty sure I used to over oil them as well. Perhaps I was lucky ?
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Air filter wise you cant go wrong with a Simota Panel from Broomfish ($45)...they are an oiled filter, and need to be cleaned every 5000 kms (I just buy 2 and a spare ready to go).
Ive been running one for 3 years and 30,000 kms no problems in a modified 2004 Legacy GT Spec B. Friend also got one for his 2007 Outback GT and loves it !!!.
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I had a full cambelt kit inc water pump done at Winger Subaru Hamilton (Genuine Parts), $1100 all up including labour. Subtech also run regular deals and it works out to be $900 all up (inc water pump). (See price here http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-943767077.htm)
Looks like they are chaging you again for things that are included in a full cambelt kit.
$113 for synthetic oil is a rip off, and why they would use unicorn blood without asking you vs any decent semi or fully synthetic is beyond me. For $85 at Repco you can buy Penrite PAO Ester,
Sparkplugs fair enough if they are Platnium, they are easy to get at while cambelt is being done
$65 is about right (For a testing station !!!)
Id say you were about $400-$500 over charged, based on that list, what do others think ???
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The play is in the sprung hub in centre of clutch disc where the splined shaft of gearbox slots into. But gear lash is caused by engine pulses rotating the gears, so cant see how that would contribute, plus it didnt do it before (on same disc). My list of things so far ive done.
- replaced input shaft bearing
- replaced throwout bearing
- replaced trans-body torsion arm
- had box fully stripped down and inspected all bearings for play, all gears for wear (nothing wrong)
- clutch assembly (PP + OEM Flywheel) fully balanced
At this stage I may just drive it and see it wearing in the Kevlar clutch will help, its not nearly as bad as it was when I first had the clutch first installed and has only had 500 kms of driving...apprently Kevlar takes about 800-1000 kms.
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Sooo car back together, gear lash still there. Another 700 bucks wasted.
Next step is to dynamat the gearbox countershaft area in attemp to quiet it.
Must be the flywheel resurface that caused it.
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Oh well, hopefully it was a one off issue, most of the reviews out there (plus my old MR2) Autoclutch had lots of good feedback.
Car being put back together this weekend.
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About to put my gearbox back in, had the clutch assembly balanced up yesterday and the balancer (plus my mechanic) both had concerns about the radial play in the hub spline.
This is near new OEM Sachs disc with <5000kms (refaced with Kevlar up at Autoclutch recently), so my gut feel is this play is by design...ie German engineering
Now the lateral play I can understand from a even wear and smooth engagement perspective, and I wonder if the radial play is a by product of that (ie if it was fully shimmed up you couldnt have any lateral play)
Its a long shot but has anyone encountered this before ?
The problem we are trying to sort was severe gear rattle after install of the new clutch (Autoclutch job - uprate OEM p-plate + kevlar facing on OEM disc).
so far I have
- replaced input shaft bearing (some noise)
- replaced throwout bearing (worn)
- replaced trans-body torsion arm (failed)
- had box stripped down and inspected (all fine bar input shaft bearing)
- clutch assembly (PP + OEM Flywheel) fully balanced
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2.0l turbo or 3.0l legacy??
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Power and modification path if that's important. The 3.0R is slightly less than a 2.0 Turbo power wise (181KW vs 190KW), the 2.0 Turbo has great power potential with simple ECU Remap, Front pipe and Panel filter mod. Other than that the challenge will be finding something with kms < 100,000.
Last point, if you can get one with the McIntosh Sound System you'd be sorted for sounds. (great sounding stock system).
What is your budget and location so we can flick up some Trade Me links for ya.