heylinb4nz
-
Posts
125 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by heylinb4nz
-
-
Ive had fujitsubo (FGK) mufflers on an AW11 Supercharged and SW20 Turbo MR2. Marginally louder than stock, like very marginal, yet flowed real well and had a slightly sporty note to them. Good quality mufflers, my SW20 one lasted about 200,000km before it was poked.
If you plan to go new then don't overlook the Adrenalin R mufflers down in Hastings. These are NZ made, great value, high quality (rediculously high quality), amazing flow, amazing sound, and most importantly dont exceed to the noise restrictions.
Once I get the coin ill be putting a couple of their V8 chamber mufflers in place of the stock cans.
-
I hugely doubt it's series/parallel because if it was, and you removed one driver, at least one other driver would stop working. Plus the wiring complexity would be a pain in the arse for the manufacturer.
As I mentioned in another post, if you put an 8 ohm woofer and an 8 ohm tweeter on the same channel, but with a crossover, the amp will still see 8 ohms on that channel.
Chances are it's (8 ohm woofer plus 8 ohm tweeter on crossover = 8 ohms) and (8 ohm mid and 8 ohm tweeter on crossover = 8 ohms) in parallel, equalling 4 ohms at the amp.
Ahhh yes that would make sense.
RE: replacements, I found these substantially cheaper than the Tangband
http://www.parts-express.com/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range-driver-8-ohm--296-258
Seem to get alot of good reviews.
-
Hrm I was working off the assumption that it was a channel per driver, or at the very least a channel per woofer+tweeter, which with a crossover would still make 8 ohms/channel.
If you've removed a driver that was paralleled the impedance will have gone up - which is safer, more efficient and should sound ever so slightly better (electronically)...
Cant really find to much info on the Mcintosh amp, but I believe its 5 channel (4 X 30 RMS + 1 x 78RMS for sub) the sub channel is crossed over, and the all the other channels rely on passive crossover by way of a Capacitor installed into the mids and tweeters.
to get a 4 ohm load at the Amp, from 4 x 8 ohm speakers no doubt would require a combination of parallel and serial wiring ?.
-
Boschmann is kinda ****e. And yes I'd run 8 ohm or a. the amp will get kinda hot and b. the mids will see way more power than the other drivers and your response will be all over the show.
Tang Band make some nice drivers in this space that aren't too expensive - I'd be inclined to grab a couple of these and see how they go:
The fact that i've eliminated the 3" mid from the setup at the moment, will this have any adverse effect on the impedance the AMP is seeing ?
Bit confusing the front setup as it has 6.5" + 3" + tweeter + tweeter...assuming it some combo of series and parallel so it works out to be 4 ohms at amp.
-
Spent the weekend sorting our all the blown \ perished speakers in my Mcintosh system, dynamatted up and sealed doors, parcel tray and installed a new 8" sub. Turns out the 3" mids were hosed and causing a terrible screeching sound on guitar twangs, I eliminated them but the vocals lack a little now.
The factory ones are 20RMS 8 Ohm, I was wondering if I could get away with some 4 ohm Boschmann ones ? or should I just hit Parts Express or Ebay and find some 8 ohm ones.
-
When I looked at doing my 2004 BP Legacy I seriously considered the Adrenalin R V8 chamber mufflers
http://www.adrenalinr.com/productdetail.php?productID=541
$599, a bit cheaper for the Legacy as they shorten them slightly. By the time you add a Y pipe and mid pipe, plus one of their 300mm resonators for $150 you might be up around the $1200 mark. But having constructed a custom V system for an MR2 a few years ago I found their gear to be among the best (if not the best) stuff ever, performance and sound unbelievable.
Once the missis goes back to work, i'm shelling out $1200 to get one made up.
-
OK did some sound testing last night and narrowed it down to the left side 3" midrange just above the woofer. It seems to be producing the highs alot louder than it should. Without being an electronics expert my take is
a) the new woofer impedance (although it says 8 ohms) is slightly less and thus the left side draws a little extra power, I recall on install of new woofers the system sounded a little biased to the left.
b) the built in crossover on the 3" has failed (perhaps capacitor failed) allowing highs through
Does anyway have any other suggestions ?
Thinking ill either baffle that 3" with some foam behind the grill, or take the opportunity to upgrade my 3" with something nicer from parts-exchange-com.
-
Noticed on my drive home last night and this morning that the new woofers make a harsh screeching sound on the highs (inc some vocals). Quite hard on the ears, pretty sure the baskets were mounted flush when I installed, and certainly didnt notice any harsh sound on my initial testing tracks.
Definately different to what I heard straight after install as I dont really want to listen to them now.
What would cause such an issue ?
-
For $166NZ shipped off amazon I can get a Pioneer TS-W2002D2 8" Shallow mount, apparently its free air, also has the advantage of not interfering with the boot mechanism.
-
The Fs on that Jaycar woofer is way too high, and the frequency response is poo-tacular under 50hz. Nice midbass driver, terrible subwoofer.
Buy Scoob's little DD 6.5 subwoofer, awesome little driver, will knock your socks off.
EDIT: Why all the home audio drivers? There's a bunch of decent 8" subwoofers out there too, JBL, Focal and DD all make good ones off the top of my head. I think DLS does a very good one too but it's $$$.
Home audio for all the front stuff as its 8ohm. But yeah ive been looking at all the 8" options in car audio and very little I can find that are
a) high sensitivty (>89db)
b) closer to 100rms power
c) mounting depth <4 inches
ill look into that DD 6.5, is Scoob selling his
or do I need to pay retail -
Pointless facts for this thread:
-If you have an 8 ohm woofer and an 8 ohm tweeter on the same channel via a crossover the amp will still see 8 ohms on the channel.
-A door doesn't work like a "small enclosure", it is best approximated by an infinite baffle model (no enclosure at all), and then only if you make a reasonable effort to seal the front half from the back half. Car speakers (particularly 6x9's) are generally built to work best in an IB configuration, which is why it makes me die a little on the inside when you see 6x9's in those stupid parcel shelf boxes that might be 3 litres on a good day. EDIT: And it's probably why those Jaycar speakers sound decent, with Qms of about 2.0 they will have decent cone control without any help from the enclosure.
On the subject of QMS
Im looking into doing the factory sub, and am dicing up between
a) a GRS-8 8" Subwoofer (100rms, 4ohm, infinite baffle)
b) a 6.5" subwoofer of some sort
Im leaning toward 6.5" mounted in an 8"-6.5" adaptor\spacer (for easier install). Then layering up the parcel shelf with some dynamat (or not).
Is there any suitable 6.5" suitable for infinate baffle ? perhaps another one of those Jaycar 6.5" ?
-
They wouldn't fit the factory spacer? I'm guessing the weather shield didn't fit over the magnet? You could've just cut the shield part off and still used the spacer?
Nah the basket didnt quite squeeze flush with the factory spacer ring. I understand the Vifa woofers are drop in, but for $41 each and the sound output I was happy. Debating now whether or not to get some foam baffles to go behind the woofers to protect them from the elements since I ditched the factory spacer with weather sheild.
Do they need them ?
-
OK this is now officially a review thread, replaced the fronts with these on weekend
Had to ditch the factory brackets and secure them direct to the door (magnet size was too big to fit through the spacer hole).
Must say for a $41 speaker (each), they produce a very nice punchy mid bass and almost as much bass as the factory 8" sub. Ive use Response brand before in the past, and as per the older models, they don't dissapoint.
They dont upset the balance of the system, and id rate them a 10-15% improvement over stock.
Settings after install
Bass +2
Treble -2
Fade - Front +9
-
1
-
-
OK after a bit more reading and self debate, I ended up getting the Vifa 6.5" Woofers (2 for $50) since another member had already used them (rather rely on ears than specs on paper). Also managed to fix the stock sub vibration last night, seems the foam edge rubs against the outer plastic ring of the woofer and causes the noise, most likely due to deformation with age, so applying some pressure at that point using some closed cell foam wedged between woofer and parcel tray seems to make it compliant and doesnt affect the bass output.
Hopefully enough to get a couple more years of good music before selling.
-
Not bad.. but only a 5-speed and still highish k's and a bit too old. Nice colour though. Guess it's just a matter of waiting. I have no time limit really..
Yeah seems that most of the leggys for sale (especially at dealers have crazy high kms) We were ultra fortunate to pick up our 2004, 4 years ago with 63,000 kms for $16,000. Today you have 2006/2007 models with 140,000+ and the dealers want $14-$16k for them still.
-
Been doing a bot of crash course in small theile parameters today and comparing Vifa, Jaycar Response and Cheap Surplustronics Kevlar speakers (their 6.5" models).
Interestingly enough (on paper anyway) the Surplustronic Kevlar 6.5" ($35) seems to win on a range of values that make it an ideal mid bass speaker for small enclosure (ie car door). While the Vifa pretty much loses out on everything by Frequency response.
Key specs of the Surplustronics
- Good Re 7ohms (closer to rated 8 Ohm the better) Vifa was 5.7
- Good frequency response 50hz, Vifa slightly better at 46.9hz
- Excellent QMS of 7.1 means small enclosure suitability, Vifa was 2.6
- Vas of 10 vs 31, means better control of woofer cone
- Higher sensitivity 88db vs 87 for the Vifa
- Lower RMS (125rms) vs (160rms for Vifa), hopefully means small McIntosh amp can drive it.
The jaycar Response was sort of inbetween but had terrible QMS of 2.02, meaning it was suited to a large enclosure
-
Are the fronts and sub the stock mcintosh ones? And run off the stock amp?
If you don't have the mcintosh HU why not just pull the whole lot out and replace all the speakers and get a cheap aftermarket amp. Way cleaner that way.
The mcintosh system only sounded good because everything was well matched, as soon as you go chopping and changing speakers that ballance will go right out the window.
Yeah its all the stock stuff including the headunit, im running an AnyCar MP3 unit in glovebox to provide MP3 capability. Im hoping I can get a replacement 6.5" speaker close enough to the Mcintosh specs and design, so far one forum member reckons the Vifa woofers sound better than stock, i'm also eying up the response 6.5" woofers from Jaycar at $41 each that are similar design (8ohm, good sensitivity, paper cone, lowish RMS rating 60RMS)
Really looking for a sub $100 fix as the car will be sold in 2-3 years time, and its going to cost $1200-$1500 to do a half decent amp+components+sub+headunit. Time is also a luxury for me with a newborn (as well as money).
-
Personally, I'd definitely go with the Vifa ones. I'm sure you would be able to flick the others off to recoup the costs, but probably not straight away, if you don't mind waiting until the buyers come along. Otherwise re-advertise them on Trademe again..
I could possibly use another 2 in my Colt.
Whats the deal with running a pair of 8 ohms in my rear doors and powering off the headunit ? (Pioneer 4X50) I currently dont use any of my HU channels as I run Amps for my fronts and sub.
The rear doors are treated with Dynamat and about optimal size for 6.5" mid bass driver so might provide a little extra bass in the rear.
-
Noticed this on tm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-910929795.htm
Pretty high KMs for $15,000
My pick would be
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=924104134
- rare colour
- manual
- leather
- slightly lower kms
- mcintosh stereo
Offer them $12,500 and spend the $2500 change on ecu tune, subtech pipe, air filter.
-
I'm assuming they are 8ohm, as they are being run from a Macintosh amp somewhere, and being run in parallel with the tweeter, which is probably also 8ohm, letting the amp see a 4ohm load over the 4 speakers.
Replacing it with another 8ohm speaker, is definitely the best option in that respect, if you're not wanting to bypass the amp.
What speakers you can find in an 8ohm configuration will just come down to a google search, I don't know of any off hand
So that one from Jaycar would definitely be an adequate replacement. If you're replacing one, then I'd recommend replacing the other side as well. if one has bust, chances are the other isn't far off busting either.
Yep only been looking at 8 Ohms ones.
At the moment its between the Jaycar Response (which ive had good experience with their car stuff). and some Vifa ones I found on TradeMe, but the seller wants $140 for 6, I only need 2
.If anyone else here is keen to replace theirs Ill buy all 6 and sell the remaining ones at $50 a pair.
-
I wouldn't bother rebuilding them. New speakers are cheap enough, and probably better anyway.
Would these be good ????
-
Got one here, running PBMS Tune and Subtech Front Pipe + Simota Panel Filter (2004 GT Spec B - Tiptronic) The Subtech front is raspy and sound horrible. Replacing the centre pipe with a 300mm long Adrenalin R Resonator ($130) made a world of difference (nearly stock sound).
As for the tune at PBMS in Pukekohe (Gary Capper) OMG, the car has bucket loads of power to dip into all the way upto (and beyond) overtaking speeds...181kw at all 4.
Fuel economy was improved with best achieved so far of 7.9L per 100 km (confirmed with actual fill, not computer, but the computer is quite accurate too).
For under $2000 on top of purchase price it makes the BP5 a bargain car when you compare it to other similary powered (and nice looking) speced sedans out there.
-
Sounds like my front left woofer has started to perish. I read in a below thread you can use Vifa\Tymphany 6.5" 8 ohm woofers. But cant find anything in NZ or reasonably priced. Wondering if the following would be a candidate ?
http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/products/576-wide-range-kevlar-cone-woofers-65-inch-
Alternatively i though perhaps rebuilding them with new foam\rubber
http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-rubber-edge-repair-kit-rsk-6.5.html
-
My opinion of 3.0 vs 2lt turbo is if you want a awesome daily driver that's very reliable with 10k services. The the 3.0r. If you want more tune ability and upgrades get the turbo. Factory the 3.0r manual is equally fast as a 2lt turbo tiptronic car. the 3.0r is good for towing.
Having owned a 2004 GT for 4 years and 30,000kms id say they are equally reliable, we only service ours every 10,000 kms and its been ECU tuned and Subtech piped from day one we brought it. (181kw at wheels, which equates to well over 215KW at engine).
Beyond 150,000 id be wanting the 3.0R though (lack of turbo)
Some of the 3.0R guys overseas are getting > stock GT performance through ECU mapping, front pipes,exhaust and cold air intake. Our second car will be such a 3.0R....if i can find a buyer for my Ralliart Colt
or do I need to pay retail
.-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 111 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Reccomend me some 3" mids + Technical question
in I.C.E.
Posted
Think I may have found the perfect replacement, shall I hit the go button on my cart ???
https://www.parts-express.com/tymphany-tc9fd18-08-3-1-2-full-range-paper-cone-woofer--264-1062#lblProductDetails
- Cheap $75 shipped
- correct mounting depth
- spot on power handling 30rms
- low sensitivity (good as I don't want the midrange to high considering the location of them)
Although they are .5" higher I should be able to modify the factory fitting to accomodate them, or perhaps even epoxy them to inside of door cards behind the factory grill.