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jpar196

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Posts posted by jpar196

  1. Hi all, Im in the middle of a turbo swap, and run into a bit of an issue with the oil supply line. The turbo is a kinugawa td06 20g, and it came with a -4an banjo already fitted to the core of the turbo, and came with a braided -4an hose, which is perfect. What is not perfect is that the turbo supply/AVCS line is a 12mm flare. so essentially I need a 12mm flare female to -4an male like this,

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Subaru-STI-Oil-feed-12MM-Female-Flare-4AN-/380099923370?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5294610411157160470#ht_643wt_1169

    Yes I could take the -4an banjo and just go direct with the stock hardline, but frustratingly the turbo is bloody assembled in a way so that you cant back the banjo bolt out because the wastegate brackets bolt is directly above it (ridiculous)

    Anyone had a similar issue with this and know where I could get such an adapator locally?

    Thanks

  2. So, couple of weeks ago I was bleeding my brakes after changing my brake pads,

    and by mistake I let the master cylinder run dry ::) I know,, So I just added more brake fluid and re bled,

    the calipers obviously started farting out the air while doing this, The pedal is pretty firm and no issues with stopping, but just wondering if this is fine as it is ??

    Im pretty sure I did suck in a lot of air lol Or should I be taking it to a mechanical to get it properly bled from scratch ?

    thanks

  3. So I was on my last corner installing lowered springs this afternoon, on the 2nd to last 19mm nut and bolt of the rear suspension, while tightening to 145 foot pounds as per the manual, it decides to strip( not the bolt head or the nut, pretty sure its stripped in the middle of the bolt where the nut is) and keeps turning and turning but wont tighten nor loosen so Im a bit stuck here lol

    Anyone had a similar issue before? only option I can think of is carefully angle grind off the nut or bolt head, or drill through the bloody bolt until all the material is gone.

    Are subaru bolts normally this crap? or may be my torque wrench is out, but surely I thought this shouldnt happen, given I had to put in some serious force with the 600mm breaker bar to break it loose ? ?

    any help would be greatly appreciated,, *sigh* lol

  4. I dont have the SSI headers, but try looking up Kakumei headers etc, you will see they are actually identical, also identical to the genuine tomei headers. I have one myself, cant fault the quality. welds are beautiful, piping is nice and beefy, the joins are also very very well made, mating surfaces are 100% flat, fitment is good and so on.

    The only thing I had to do with my car was notch out a tiny bit from the chassis where the headers were rubbing under load.

  5.  kwi_fozze said:

    hks silent is nice till you get hard on the gas. then it rumbles nicely. a genome tip has a nice quiet rumble....

    my experiances with rage, first on a v8 sti and on a gts25 skyline, is that its stupidly loud....

    Thats Strange, Ive got a Rage system in my V7 and its surprisingly quiet, and thats a full 3" from downpipe with 1 resonator in the middle with ss muffler at the back, removable silencer. with the silencer it sounds almost stock

  6. Does anyone know if there is a way to stop the radio turn off momentarily when you crank the car ?

    Everytime I turn my keys to ON, then crank the car the radio will shut off then switch back on again. And the gauges will annoyingly do the ceremony again,,

    Car is V7 STi. Is this suppose to do this, and is there any way of stopping it from going off during cranking ?

    Thanks

  7. I recently did this repair using Ricks sensors, they are great, and could see why the factory sensors were leaking and these were not going to leak.

    Pull the big plug by the drivers tower and if there is oil in there I sugguest checking the ECU plugs.

    the 2nd plug from bottom in my ECU had a very very thin film of oil in it, so hoping i have found it early.

    anyways its good to prevent it from tracking oil further into the ECU.

    the sensors were quite a task to get in, but after a lot of stressing and swearing I can say that its possible without removing the manifold,,, although I had my doubts during the swap,,lol

    for $180 I would say its worth the hassle,,

  8. google or youtube champagne test, you stick a funnel tight in the radiator cap, fill it with water/coolant, and if continuous bubbles comeout like a fizzy drink, your headgasket would be leaking exhaust gases in to the cooling system, ie headgasket buggered.

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