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EJGOD

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Posts posted by EJGOD

  1. Just remember the people who have to turn up and deal with the aftermath. Having family members working in Hospitals and for St john and seeing and hearing stories of accidents at speeds under 200k's its not a pretty sight and is not a pleasant job.
    I remember what it was like to be young and reckless, but theres reckless and then theres out right stupidity.
    You say that you are not endanger others because you drive by yourself - well thats all good until some one else further down the road the pulls out thinking you are doing 100kph 

    Doing what my mate’s do, 150 in a 50, middle of town racing, drifting into traffic, snakies at 100 in the rain in the middle of the day, driving on wires, in my opinion that’s wreckless. I’ve had 200kw+ cars with no speed cut from the moment I got my license when I turned 16 and I’m just about to turn 19, never had a ticket for anything. Majority of my mates have lost this restricted licenses for demerits etc meanwhile I had my full license back when I was 17 and flew through everything. I don’t really consider myself a complete idiot but i think my mate’s all are. Most people around my age who talk to me say “if I had your car I would’ve either stacked it but now or lost my license, I’d just have my foot down all day everyday”


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  2. Willing to bet there isn't a race track or privare road long enough for a 2016 STi to hit 260+.
    And as for me no. Not even half that speed. Have no need to be that stupid or irresponsible. As someone who works in a hospital OR I have seen the results of what goes wrong - at least those that survive....

    Only when by myself. Rather not endanger others.


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  3.  
    Are you sure that's not rev cut or speed cut or some other cut? Because running out of fuelling won't result in a cut, you'll just hit 100% IDC. What you're getting is almost certainly a cut, I'm gonna take a wild guess and say boost cut.
     
    This is all so retarded, because if the car was running out of fuelling the tuner should have been able to tell you this 100% concretely, no anecdotal "sometimes a thing happens".
     
    By all means, put some ID1050X's in it and a decent fuel pump, but don't be disappointed when it makes 1kw more. Although I have this funny feeling that if the tuner is clever they will just dial-a-number and give you whatever makes you pay them more.
     
     

    Nah won’t be speed cut cause she cruises at 260 no sweat, it cuts at any RPM so don’t think it’ll be rev cut, and can’t be boost cut cause I watch my boost gauge and it stays at 1.25 bar from 3k through to 6,500 with no creep, no spikes etc. COBB’s boost solenoid does a great job.


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    • Like 1
  4.  
    I don't know how you can conclude you are choked by fuel based solely on that.
     
    You tuner should be able to tell you your injector duty cycle, which will tell you with 100% clarity, no wet finger in the air bullshit, if you are running out of fuelling. If your tuner cannot tell you this, they are a potato and should not be tuning cars that use injectors.
     
    I know bugger all about the intricacies of the latest motors, but presumably they are running similar injectors to the older ones, approx 565cc/min.
    This will fuel you to around 240 real, actual, proper, not made up, wheel kw. Depending on the bullshit factor the tuner is using on his dyno, this is going to be roughly 300 made up flywheel kw, although all of these figures are using 98 octane, and I don't know if you are.
     
    EDIT: My rough calculations say you're probably making about 210-215wkw, meaning you likely have another 20-odd kw in your fuel system, and you are probably being limited by the turbo, or something in your exhaust (do the new ones have a catted up-pipe?) or maybe, just maybe, the topmount intercooler.
     
    If you're on 95 octane, that's a pretty good number, and the problem is the turbo, end of discussion.


    Nah new ones don’t have a cat in the uppipe, tuned on 98, 200kw is what people see on a “stage 2” tune in America and at that point a fuel pump upgrade is recommended. When foot flat for a good 10 seconds on a high speed pull the motor cuts out so I think that could be the fuel pump possibly giving up?


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  5. 2.5 makes a heap of difference for low end torque and response though. Would rather that than a crazy rpm limit for a street car

    Does the 2.0 have the rings issue the 2.5 has? I just purchased a oil catch can off of AliExpress cause i noticed a fair bit of oil in the breathers and intercooler and read online that it’s the oil going into the cylinder and through the rings that buggers them

     

     

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  6.  

    It's 2.5 right? Just throw twin scroll set up on it and a gcg turbo. You will have a twin scroll sump on it. With e85 it should be a monster on the street. Probably get away with tmic too.

    Yeah it’s the dumb 2.5 haha wish it had the 2.0, seems to be more things available on trademe for the 207 than the 257

     

     

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  7. Lol those stickers mean nothing. I've seen "400kW+" stickered cars do sub 300kw on hub dynos.
    At the end of the day, it's your car, you don't have to justify your decisions but the guys/gals on here have great advice on how to make your car perform.
     
    Don't just be one of these guys:
    chasing-numbers.jpg
    chasing-numbers.jpg

    Yeah you guys all have much more experience than me, I’ve only been in the Subi game for the last like 2.5 years. After I’ve upgraded my fuel system I’ll look at doing a turbo and maybe even a FMIC. Pretty much topping out stock motor by then so might get a motor built or just chip away at building a short block at home to swap my heads onto.


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    • Like 1
  8. You’re not talking 300kw in the sense anyone else does though. You’re getting an estimated engine kw not wheel kw. Ask your tuner what you’re putting down at the wheels.

    I just want the NZPC 300kw club sticker hahaha, all the other cars he’s tuned to 300kw have them, I asked about wheel power and he said they only record flywheel power because it’s more accurate. And it must be pretty accurate because he said before he tuned it my car made 220kw, Subaru quotes 225kw stock.


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  9. Went for a little drive today after the Cobb catted j pipe was installed on Thursday and the car flashed to an off the shelf Cobb stage two map. Quite a big difference in torque, as well as lots of loud whooshy noises. The exhaust is only a bit louder (but a lot deeper) so won't attract a whole lot of attention, which was the goal. Thought I was done for now, but last night found myself looking online at a Process West Verticooler and a Perrin header.

    I thought I’d be done with stage 2 aswell but I’m finding myself looking at 1000cc injectors and a high flow fuel pump. Look out 300kw club, coming for you!!


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  10. Agree that it does sound like ass with the mufflers in, and I don’t really care who “Owns” it. I’m the one who drives it every single day, who’s done 30,000km in it since “I started driving it” a year ago off the lot. You mortgage a house and you don’t own it but you continue to live in it, put pictures up, paint the walls... My dad just told me he wants to see me enjoy his money instead of him not get to see me enjoy it. They bought the car for me without asking, it was a surprise. Originally I was looking at a R33 or R34 N/A Skyline but they insisted I get a safe modern car and not have the trouble that older cars have.


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    • Like 1
  11. [mention=20054]Conducks[/mention] What mufflers are you running at the moment?
    Do you think its much louder than the stock DP? Sounds a bit strange to me that they wouldn't tune as too loud.
    Would putting the original mufflers on for the tune cause issues when you replace with the aftermarket ones?


    Well currently it’s 4” downpipe into 3” straight pipe to 4” quad tips... with no resonators or mufflers........


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    You are joking right?
     
     
     

    Not joking. Am fully straight piped now 4” downpipe into 3” straight pipe to 4” tips


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