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Prodrivebugeye

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Posts posted by Prodrivebugeye

  1. 28 minutes ago, boon said:

    Taking some vital parts out of the loom" is essentially exactly what an immobilizer circuit in an alarm does. Just relies on the alarm being installed well (aka hidden and the cuts done intelligently) and the benefit is you just take the alarm remote with you instead of a hunk of loom...

     

    You are right, but in seeing as a lot of the previous disscussions talked about how easy it is to bypass the immobilisers, if you physically remove a section of the wiring it then means that not only do they have to defeat the alarms immobilisers they then also have to replicate the wiring you have removed because there is a section physically missing they would then need to provide wiring and the time to bridge the removed section in order to get the car running again which would aso look quite suss rather than joining wires etc under the dash/alarm brain inside the car not attracting attention. 

     

    Depending on the location of the removed loom as well of course

  2. This something I've thought about ever since my b4 got stolen and the general conclusion of 'if they really want it they will get it' always seems to recurr. 

     

    A good alarm - err well installed well optioned alarm with at least one kill switch and a gps tracker are great for piece of mind but in the end i doubt it would stop someone determined to steal my car. 

     

    I'd had an idea a while back but never really left the concept stage, but my idea was to create a removeable section of the motor loom that was plug n play by removing a section of the wiring somewhere not ultra obvious but also not impossible to get to (for useage) and have a plug made up for either end of the harness on either side of the removed section and then have a plug in replacement section that was originally removed with corresponding plugs so that you could physically make the car undriveable by removing said section of wiring and taking it with you. 

     

    Was just an idea i had floating around. 

    • Like 1
  3. 11 hours ago, Batbaruman said:

    LOL that is something i would do if i had the money and personality to match (so its probably just as well i don't haha). i'm really impressed, i'm going kind of low key with my things but this guys totally in your face about it got those wheel caps, the big emblem, the seat covers, i wanna see more of the interior. what has he done about the dash panel for example??? and is that a batman mug on his center console front? . plate text is a bit cheesy though...  *oh the irony*

     

    ps. these just arrived

    4PC-font-b-Batman-b-font-logo-font-b-val

     

    my sister gifted me this , i havent decided where its going yet :P

    TfegXCs.jpg

     

    and i have this on my ebay watchlist really half minded whether i should or not... not like my cars even black so my exterior build is bound to end up in the car crimes thread one of these days and probably on various fail blogs !

    Cklb5BK.jpg

     

     

     

    and then it dawned on batbaruman that despite having a cool boyracer car, he was always going to be a nerd

     

     

    Hahaha you're a funny bugger mate 🤣🤣

  4. Personally I like walbros but end of the day as long as its a reputable brand and from a reliable source so you can be sure it's not a knock off, you can't go wrong. 

     

    As for the gull it's not recommended in my v7 sti but unsure about the older ones. I did find my sti ran great on it at first and after a while it seemed to not run as nice. Went back to mobil and no probs since

  5. Been trying to program a new key fob on my bh all afternoon with no luck, tried following the instructions above, new battery and 3 remotes and nothing seems to register the key to the car. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Car beeps when handle is pulled but i cant set the code without a key being programmed to the car :/

  6. Hey guys, first time back in a while.

    The wife has a 2000 bh5 gtb tiptronic and its been doing funny things for a while now.

    It will frequently hit about 5psi primary and then tries to hit secondary with a huge vod.

    Then as if nothing has happened it will boost fine again out of nowhere. Its done 120k and been well maintained for the last 40k by myself.

    The only error codes i get are code 66 and afm. Have cleared the codes and cleaned afm. Seems to make a difference for a little while after ecu reset but then falls back into the same routine. Wife says it happens a lot in the mornings on her way to work.

    Issue cropped up after car was left at mechanics for a wof so im not sure what happened there but it was fine that morning and not the same since.

    Any ideas? Rarely gives a code 66 when issue is present so Im stumped

  7. My mrs dropped her 2000 gtb auto into a mechanic one day before work, A1 automotive in fitzgearld ave in christchurch to get her steering rack boot replaced and a wof. They took much longer to deliver the car back than they\'d promised, told her they had replaced the passenger side park light but was still left unplugged from when I had last put the light back in, told her they had \'degreased\' the entire underbody of her car and tried charging for the extras never permitted and now the majority of fhe time boost is jerky and only gets 5psi before the car transitions to secondary. Starts and idles ok but the boost gauge reads only -10 at idle, used to be ~-20

    Only error code i found was an old oxy sensor code that hasnt come back after an ecu reset

    Any ideas? Vacc leak maybe?

  8. I was reversed into in a carpark in st albans, christchurch and chased the guy right out of town and down old west coast road out to the west coast and refused to pull over. Stopped at the lights my mrs knocked on his window and told him to pull over and he said \'i cant, its not my car, its my dads and took off again. Even after a farilt hairy bit of driving the bastard wouldnt stop so had to let him go.

    Can anyone get address or anything off a plate so I can go visit his \'dad\'.

    Zh3453 charcoal grey volvo sedan

    Much appreciated

  9. +1 swap em round and with the fuse replaced it should go. Easy way to check if you have a multimeter or test light is with the key off the yellow wire should have ~12v(multimeter) or the testlight should light up with the key on or off, that will be the batt wire which will let you keep your settings. Repeat same with the red but when key is off there should be 0v/no light, thats the acc. Hope you sort it

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