duckandcover
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Posts posted by duckandcover
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By the looks of the photo, you need the addzest road explorer DV 4.0
I have here the Road explorer CD 7.0 , and the road explorer DV 5.0 ,
Ill see if i can find anywhere that says if teh 5.0 will work for this system.
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if you can post a pic of the dvd-rom disc, ill ahve a hunt and see if i have the right one.
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I seen a Ford Mondeo 2010 police car, well I was certain it was as it had the lights on the dashboard and back parceltray.
This could also be a fire service car, which also have the lights on the dash and in the rear parcel tray. Most of the fire service cars are currently being updated from hyundai sonatas to Ford mondeos and Holden Epicas
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If it is an authentic subaru immobilizer and you would like a authentic subaru replacement and dont need it urgently, please pm me with a photo and the chassis code, and i can price one form subaru in Japan when i am up there next week.
Our local subaru dealership is usually very expensive, i dont know how yours will compare price wise.
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This is the local agent for Subaru / Nissan / Audi / VW / Jeep etc. etc.
As above, these guys are normally very very expensive, but have been alot more realistic in the last couple months with pricing, and the subaru parts guy, seems to be very helpul!
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i cant say the same, cos i missed it. But im not a mechanic.
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Not so much what ive done to my car today, more what has happened over the last 4 weeks.
took car to mechanic with noise in drivetrain, horrible rattling/grinding noise guessing that its a universal joint in the driveshaft.
Mechanic cant figure it out, takes it to a second mechanic who says its a cheap aftermarket clutch that has given up.
Replace 1/2 worn Exedy clutch with new Exedy clutch, noise persists.
1st mechanic checks all diff fluids looking for metal shavings etc, all mint.
2nd Mechanic who suggested the clutch then suggests its a shaft/bearing in the back of the gearbox.
1st mechanic is weary of 2nd mechanic at this point and asks for a 3rd opinion.
Car goes to 3rd MEchanic who has never heard that noise before and is baffled.
While taking car off the hoist the 3rd mechanics apprentice says " what the fuck is that?"
It was jammed stones/gravel in the bracket for teh driveshaft.
Thanks Apprentice, i owe you a box of beers!
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this makes me happy
:) , now im just up for a clutch and maybe diff rather than clutch, maybe diff, and computer. -
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flash memory does have limited writes.. but definitely way more than 1-2 flashes..
after reading this im guessing he has done a shit job on reflashing someones ECU and blamed it on the ECU and not his ability
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Ive just had my car in the workshop having clutch / diff work done, and i was given the advice "get an aftermarket computer" he gave his reasoning as the original ECU can be remapped once or twice, but anything after that will cause major problems that will kill your car.
Now i took this as inciting fear trying to get me to spend extra money on an aftermarket ECU.
Am i right? or is this something that could be a real problem in the future?
Has anyone had multiple remaps with or without problems?
My car is a NZDM 05 WRX 2.5t, standard apart from a EBC (running 0.1Psi above factory) and an exhaust, as far as i know its never had a remap, but i bought it at 50,000km, with no way of telling what has ahppened prior to that. I was planning to do intake before christmas, and a remap.
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rear view, checkout how much tyre is hanging out from under thoose arches!
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May be worth askin Hamish at H&N automotive in Tauranga.
He has a v8 sti, and using CR Kai wheels, although im not sure of his width / offset
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very basic specs can be found here
http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/subaru/impreza_wrx/2001_9/27705/
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The old man is looking at H6 Lancaster/Outbacks (BH shape), just wondering what the VDC system is like?
What I've picked up so far is:
-All H6 that shape were autos
-VDC gets 45:55 rear-biased 4wd whereas non VDC is front biased (have heard up to 90:10)
-VDC can't be turned off except by removing a fuse, which also disables ABS?
Is that lot correct? And what are they like to drive, any nasty habits like suddenly cutting power when you get into a slide on gravel?
Anything else useful to know about them?
Some models have a switch to turn off the VDC soem do not, we have had maybe the better part of 50 h6 lancasters with VDC, and have found that about 15 or so have had the switch to turn it off, when it is fitted the switch is located to the left of the steering wheel.
While we have had no problems with the VDC itself, there have been people that we have known that have had issues with it.
My recommendation to him would be, to purchase a model with the ability to switch the vdc off.
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yeah im gutted as well, friend dropped them off to me at work, and didnt tell me, otherwise i would have picked them up.
Im hoping that the f**kwit that stole em is stupid enough to put them up on tardme or try and sell them to a local wheel shop.
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The wheels that i ahd for sale were stolen, 17x7 Work Emotion CR Kai wheels, 5x100 +47 wearing Bridgestone Ts-02 tyres
Any information would be appreciated.
Photos can be found here in for sale thread:
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,14049.msg204525.html#msg204525
*edit* have just checked the security cameras, seems they have parked in medical centre next door, and have taken at least 3 sets of wheels *sigh*
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I am a car dealer and deal with warranty claims on a semi regular basis.
to know whether the warranty is truely worth the extra money, you need to look at the following:
Which company is the warranty from. (this will make a huge difference in the price and what is covered)
What the excess of teh warranty is.
What is covered.
The servicing required to keep the warranty valid (how often, what needs to be serviced, and if there is specified workshops for servicing)
Depending on teh dealership the price that they give you for warranty will not always be the best price that they can offer it to you, just like the sticker price on the car, warranties usually have a profit percentage for the dealership. ie Protecta warranties have a 100% markup at recommended retail. however depending on the company $980 for a 3 year warranty on a turbo vehicle does not sound all that expensive.
As stated by ODB you also need to look at conditions regading modified vehicles, alot of warranty companies will exclude any non OEM parts and related parts.
Also make sure that the warranty details are written on the sale agreement for the vehicle, this can help alot on the occasions if the warranty company does not play ball on a claim.
On the other hand, is the dealership offering a standard warranty on theirs cars?
All dealers are required to cover any problems which are unreasonable to expect for a reasonable length of time. Now as im sure you have noticed this is very open to interpretation.
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I used to live on Marewa road, near the top on teh Hatitai side, I had my car broken into twice, and attempted to be stolen once, there was a RS2000 escort abandoned, and our nieghbours car stolen.
Teribble street lighting, and alot of houses that cant see the road, make this an easy target for car thieves.
:) 
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in General Vehicle Discussion
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you should spend a llittle over 15 and buy a v10 kiwi new, 2.5t wrx wagon done under 80km *wink wink*