NotAWhiteGTB
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Posts posted by NotAWhiteGTB
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Thats almost a 4 door adaptation of the WRC widebody. If someone wants one, give me a yell.
For the fiberglass kit with white gelcoat finish pricing:
4 door approx $4800 (front & rear bumper, front guards, rear guards and rear door bubbles)
2 door approx $4000 (front & rear bumper, front guards and rear guards)
I can give you pointers on how to do it yourself, and whats needed if you dont want to pay someone else to do it.
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had my discs machined about 2 months ago and now they seem warped again or at least I think they are from the feeling I\'m getting through the steering. Does this happen alot with brembos? or is it the way I\'m braking as I\'m sure I bedded them in properly.
One thing that is goin through my head is that maybe I have reached the minimum thickness which is why they are warping in which case what is the minimum thickness? and if I need replacement discs is there much of a price difference between stock and slotted if anybody knows?
Cheers for the help
You warp you rotors from getting them hot and not letting them cool down evenly. The biggest cause of this is if brake heavily and get them hot, then park your car up.
The reason for this is under heavy braking your caliper and rotor gets hot, but calipers don\'t cool as fast as rotors. So when you park up, the part of the rotor where the caliper is, takes longer to cool down than the rest of the exposed rotor, and uneven cooling of the rotor, distorts it shape making them warped. This is why at the track you see everyone pushing there cars backwards and forwards in the pits after a hard outing using the brakes.
The main purpose for slots on rotors is to remove the gas from between the pad and rotor under extreme braking. Getting slotted rotors will not help your rotors in been less prone to becoming warped. Things that cool your rotors faster are venting and cross drilled.
Moral of the story, if your getting your brakes hot from heavy braking, keep driving for another 5 minutes or so, going easy on your brakes and give them a chance to have a good cool down before you stop.
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I 2nd the Ferodo TS2000\'s on the front and get something like Bendix Metal King\'s for the back.
Then if they dont work like you wanted them too, your better off going and getting Pagid RS pad\'s.
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Well my WRX looked like this...
Now looks like this...
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I think its time for my bi annual post.
2007 I drive leggy 3.0r
In I mode, open road - 9.2 to 9.7L/100km
In sport #, the most uneconomical i have ever had it was 11.2L/100km
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More like the epitome of cluelessness.
In a similar vein...
http://www.modifiedcars.com/cars/21300/modified-trabant-601-rs-1970-pictures
those little things are sweeet!! what are you on!!!
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This guy has got skills to pay the bills... enjoy
I just keep watching the impact over and over, and it doesnt get any less funny!!!
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Unless you want to pull the thing apart and rebuild it I would leave it. The only thing that will give you a decent amount of more go go will be an ECU (Link G4 Extreme), but the amount more you get out of it will hardly justify the money aspect.
You wont get much more power out of it in NA form unless you spend big dollars doing head work, in which case i would rather spend my coin putting a turbo onto it.
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my temp needle started playing seesaw today,.............the cars got no thermostat and the water that we fill in the water tank always ends up in the overflow,radiator and hoses are fine.....
/quote]
If there's no thermostat, the coolant will start to warm up if the car is just idling or cruising along at a constant pace through town, then as soon as you give it some revs, the waterpump will pull a big wad of cold water out of the radiator and suddenly cool the motor back down to cold.
If its pushing the water out into the overflow, sounds like the headgaskets haven't sealed properly and are leaking pressure into the coolant. The fix for that is new headgaskets done properly.
Chairs Koom, you just reminded me dawg
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Cheers guys appreciate the advice.
If it is the battery not holding charge will removing the terminal at night stop it losing charge?
Sorry dude, if its not holding charge it will do it even if its sitting with nothing hooked up to it. The only thing that may help it is checking the water in it, and remember you only top it up with DISTILLED WATER only and you may have luck. Some batteries also have see through ports on them that have a colour indicator in them that you can use to assess the condition of your battery.
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i think BT ran d2s and then sold them to ntawhitegtb
don't think either of them had any issues with them
they work mint, the one big down side with them is that the rotors are a slut to replace because they are no longer readily avaliable in nz through a distributer as far as im aware, and they are well over priced.
To fix this issue i machined up new hats to suit wilwood rotors of the same size as the options are plentiful for that rotors pcd.
So brembos maybe a simpler option, and alot cheaper for rotor replacement.
As far as performance, i have never used brembos on a track so i couldn't compare them, but im sure there must have been a reason for BT to replace his brembos on his spec c with his d2's when he first got his car? Best to ask him id say.
From what ive been told by most, they are on par with wilwoods, but for a fraction of the price. But they definitley arent AP's or something bling like that.
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Everything he is telling you should ring big alarm bells. If he had the head gasket done on it, and it was over skimmed, it will be running a higher compression that what it should be. Which (im assuming you have a standard ecu) on a standard ecu is bad because that could lead to det because the timing hasnt been adjusted to compensate for this, which can lead to no more piston. I would be careful and be tempted to find someone with det headphone set and drive it around on a cold morning giving it some beans to make sure it isnt detonating.
2ndly, if he thinks the head bolts need to be re-torqued, it means they weren't tightened to the correct torque in the first place, which means who ever put it back together should be shot on the spot, no questions asked. And if it does actually need torquing up i would be putting my money on that it has done a head gasket again, or if not chances are very high that it will.
[quote name='LAZLO said:
my temp needle started playing seesaw today... ...the cars got no thermostat and the water that we fill in the water tank always ends up in the overflow,radiator and hoses are fine,one guy said check the high pressure hose,anyone on here know what it might be,sorry about the novel :-X
If your car doesnt have a thermostat but the temp needle is moving drastically, what do you mean ?
If it was me this is the things i would check.
Drive down the road, when it gets hot, put the heater in the car on hot and turn the fans to full.
If the temperature gets signifigantly better, your radiator is not cooling properly and your heater is doing the radiators job for you.
In which case check radiator for blockages, and check if the fans are working properly. Once you have done that, and if that doesnt fix the problem, check the hoses for leaks etc.
Still no luck? with what information you have previously given i would be inclined to say you have a high chance you will need to do the head gasket again.
My advice would be take it into someone who knows what they are doing as with what you have said it could be a plethora of things that are fu*kt, and many of them will be very hard to identify if you dont know what to look for.
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Your battery probabily has dead cells in it. Go past any old shop that sells batteries and they can test it for you 9 times out of 10.
Bottom line, your battery most likely needs replacing because it wont hold charge.
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The only down side to wagons is that the rear struts arent directly linked in any structural way, which means to transfer forces from a rear strut to the other side of the car it has to transfer it through the roof via c-pillars and through the floor, which isnt that stiff and results in having less feel in the rear end.
But this is easily fixed with a rear strut brace or a roll cage.
Other than that there isnt any difference between a gf8 and a gc8, they have the same sub-frames, suspension setups, driveline, blah blah blah.
every gram counts
true words!!!, it is alot more rewrding (and cheaper) making your car lighter than getting more power out of it, putting bigger brakes on it, and find a way to get more grip to haul the excess crap around
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Trust repco to be like that.
Tell them you want a gasket for a ej20r and a gasket for a ej207. those are the two you want to trace to find out what shape your adapter will be to go from a bg to bh motor.
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next the bh5 motor wont run a bg5 intake manifold? and the sensors from the intake are different? what should i do to overcome this?
You can still use the bg (phase II?) manifold on the bh (phase III) block, what you need to do is make up an adapter plate, the same as what you would do for a bellhousing adaptor. If you have both of the manifolds off you will be able to trace out them onto a piece of paper to figure out what your adaptor is going to look like.
You will need to get it cut out of alloy, more than likely getting it laser cut, which alot of people around here will tell you where to go depending on where you are.
You can either supply a 1:1 tracing of what you want to the profiling company, or you can/get someone to draw it up as a .dxf for you to give to the profilers.
What area are you from?
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I have no idea what an auto boosts.
A manual makes about 7-8psi on primary, secondary 14-15psi. This is assuming your wastegates are in good condition.
I do know of a few that run higher due to removing exhaust cats and a few other minor things, but i would be careful because if it starts running at about 18psi i would be very worried about it leaning out and dieing a painful and expensive death.
/quote]
yup, mine use to lean out. it was boosting 17psi. previous owner (cough miller cough)
Its always a good idea to post your intro in the intro section, then check your area section for whats happening.
i see what you did there... hahahaha
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I have no idea what an auto boosts.
A manual makes about 7-8psi on primary, secondary 14-15psi. This is assuming your wastegates are in good condition.
I do know of a few that run higher due to removing exhaust cats and a few other minor things, but i would be careful because if it starts running at about 18psi i would be very worried about it leaning out and dieing a painful and expensive death.
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I'll be there, even tho i've just been told it's the same weekend as the v8s in hamiltron... :'(
Yea , i agree with you on that, but out of all honesty the racing is on sat and sunday which means we can still watch it on tv.
Also i would much rather be driving than watching cars on tv wishing i was doing the same thing
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Buying a Legacy 3.0R - What should I know about them? Waterpump replacement?
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Something my useless brain has acquired knowledge of...
Even though they don't need a cam belt replacement due to the cam chain, they still need the the accessories belt replaced, along with the bearings in the idler pulleys. If not replaced, the most common problem is the bearings in the idler pulley that is mounted off the A/C mounting bracket, collapses, which along with letting the belt have a party against your radiator, also damages the bracket. Its a common enough problem that those brackets are usually the first thing to get robbed off a ez30R when one turns up at the wreckers.
Other than that, they are mint. They cope with been abused for along time with out complaint.