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NotAWhiteGTB

Central North Island Member
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Posts posted by NotAWhiteGTB

  1.  Optical said:

    why would you do that, you'd go from 180hp to 200hp for $10k

    Iv been told by a reliable source that because of some design changes they made, you can get alot more power per litre than the EZ30R.

    And my motor isnt that wussy, It makes 240bhp at the moment. Hopefully more when i get it tuned for Gull Force 10 too :)

  2. I want to do a viability study on doing an EZ36R swap into my WRX for more power compaired to putting a turbo on my EZ30R. The only problem is i cant find anyone who sells an EZ36R in nz.

    So does anyone know of any overseas companys that would export an engine to me, or of a local engine importer that isn't a complete rip off? Cheers!!

  3. The new BMW diesels have definitely got something that you can poke a stick at.

    The only problem with them is that you still know you are driving a diesel because of the noise they make, even if all of their advertising campaigns say otherwise. But really, who cares, diesels are awesome

    Picture courtesy of Keltik to prove my point

    IMG_8468.jpg

  4.  SimJen said:

    doesnt 1.3 bar only relate to the pressure it will vent at!

    So if you have no cooling issues and your car doesn't get hot then it will make zero difference to the everyday running of your car.

    You'll probably find that radiators are only s***ting themselves because they are getting tired...not cause of a cap change.

    Yip, its the pressure that the seal moves up to relive pressure.

    If your radiator dies after putting a new cap on, id agree that it is because your radiator is old a farked, as they easily handle 1.3 bar when in good condition.

    One thing to note is that the end tanks on factory radiator go brittle over time and they are usually the first place a radiator will leak from because they crack. So if something cant handle the pressure i would be putting my money on that first.

  5.  pappu said:

    ahh so basically there is not much of a difference between the stiv4 box and the v2wrx... ::)

    as for the mounting etc - 4 or 8, is it like the older boxes have 4 and the newer ones have 8? which wud mean older motors are 4 point and newer 8 point?

    sorry but not too clued up on g/box etc..

    and in saying that, if the 6 speed is 8 mount then how does it have a chance to fit an older block? or m i missing something :P

    Yes you are right, old boxes have 4 point mounts, new ones have 8.

    But that isnt a major as you can easily modify a gearbox that has an 8 point to fit an older motor. Im sure koom can elaborate on this if need be because i know he has done it before.

  6. I think you should leave it auto.

    What you need to do is get it rebuilt and revalved so if shifts at break neck speed, put an automatic shift kit onto it. Then remove the torque converter and replace it with a clutch. You will have one sweet gearbox then, and you can flatshift gears the whole time and not worry about destroying syncros! F*&K YEA!!!

  7. As far as i was aware, the only difference in the turbo gearboxes that changed as time went on is small things like changed syncros, final drive ratios and centre and front diff's etc, like Kami pointed out. But all of the 5 speed gear sets are essentially identical strength wise with the respect to the different ratios as the gears are all helical and the same length.

    If you want stronger gears get a 6 speed as the gears are way longer and take a f*ck load more to shear teeth off

    If you want somethign that is less likely to crunch as time goes on, get a later box with better syncro design, or dont slam through gears and be nice to it.

    The only other thing worth mentioning is there are two generation of 5 speeds, ones that are pre (and including) version 4 gboxs, which have the gearbox code start TY752, which are the 4 point mounted boxes.

    Everything after this is 8 point mounted, which means if you want to fit this onto a 4 point block/motor, minor modifications will have to be done

  8.  wrcfan']

    [quote name='Fastfour said:

    Yeah Clint has his licence.

    And he did well on the Sunday.

    /quote]

    I was flag marshall at the the top of the chase. Bloody long and cold day so not in a rush to volunteer next time.

    One of the the afternoon sprints (cant remember if it was dual or multi) Clint had the camera mounted on the side, when in that same sprint he tried to out brake one of the hondas going into the chase. The move didn't go exactly to plan which was good from my POV because I got to warm up waving the yellow flag.

    Question though: - Did that footage come out at all??

    Haha, that didnt come out :( When i got back in i was laughing my arse off that we managed to avoid something going wrong.

    That must have given you something to laugh about.

  9.  Fastfour said:

    Ok, cheers dude.

    It was what I thought.

    Will try and get my a into g and get a naitonal licence. Just need start reading up!

    Dont need to study too much as i found out. You could turn up not knowing just about everything and they will explain everything as you go through it if you get something wrong.

    Aslong as you know the flag signals and a few basic procedures you will be fine.

  10.  boostin said:

    Not really. Just replace them when they get noisy/rough/play etc. GD/GG's seem to be hard on bearings though. Usually rears.

    I agree, this is one thing i wouldnt replace unless you notice they are physically poked and have signifigant play in them.

    Wheel bearings and subarus are not a happy couple. Most of the time, if you decided to check what condition they are in, you will find they need replacing very frequently, even though they weren't hindering the car.

    My advice would be leave them until they need replacing, otherwise its going to turn into a saga like trying to shut down Mc D's to stop people getting fat, its going to involve a lot effort and you wont achieve f*ck all in the grand scheme of things.

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