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Garryg

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Posts posted by Garryg

  1.  lachlan said:
    if you find the right bits on trade me its no more difficult than changing oil and filter and wiring a head unit .

    also id rate a water temp gauge over a oil temp . for oil temp to get to a oil is always hotter and as en engine warning device its far too late . in saying that if oil temp interests you then go for it

    if you dont do those things then sorry im not in aucks

    Cheers Lachlan, Thanks for your reply. The reason I thought on Oil Temp over water, is that there is already the factory water temp gauge. Although I do my own oil/filter, brakes, I only do these as I'm used to this.. I could also fit a head unit, but wouldn't be comfortable fitting the others in case I make an error and get false readings. This is why I'd rather have someone else who is more skilled do it.

    Hopefully I can find a forum member, or some feedback on a good garage to put it in to...then I'll be happy. I've already bought the single din gauge holder and looking at a single din head unit now :-)

  2. Happy Boy this morning.... It was like driving a different car to work this morning. My first 12k's to the Motorway is a windy road, not that I'm a speedster, but could go round the bends a little faster without being forced over the lines with the give in the sidewall of the old tyre...and I can finally hear my music without turning it up to 20 :-). Although the other tyres were new and on the car when I bought them, they were crap... So if anyone is thinking of buying a budget "performance" tyre, don't get Evergreen!

    As for the speedo readings, this was checked before I changed, as Sobanoodle says, not anything to worry about.

    Cheers Guys....your input was much appreciated!

  3.  heylinb4nz said:
    Unequal length headers :).

    But if you're after a sportier sound for your S-GT Id highly recommend Adrenalin R muffler\mufflers made in NZ with one of their midpipe 300mm resonators.

    They can supplier mufflers of correct dimensions.

    Do you plan to just do mufflers ? or the whole system upto the front pipe ?

    Just the muffler. As mentioned, this is not a performance thing, not am I looking for noise, just a deeper exhaust rumble under acceleration. Cheers

  4. Hi All,

    First post in some time!!

    My daughter has a 2001 B4 Auto. She has been complainingto me for some time that there is a distinct lack of power when she pulls away from a junction and going up hill. She say\'s it\'s like it is in the wrong gear then suddenly drops a gear before it goes?? She said it is so bad that she has to take extra care at junctions as it goes so slow for a good 10 secs before it does anything. We had it in the garage last week and they cleaned out the Air flow sensor (I think thats what they said) it also had a full service with new plugs, ect... but still doesn\'t seem to have solved the issue.

    I have the battery disconnected at the moment and will reconnect tomorrow morning.. I believe this will reset the ECU? After this I don\'t know what to try! Any ideas would be much appreciated.

    Cheers

    Garry

  5. Hi All....it's been a while since I've been on!

    Anyway, My daughter has been looking for her 2nd car and she has spotted a "94 Impreza WRX (Auto) Sedan on trademe. We had a quick look at it yesterday and overall doesn't seem to bad. It ran well, but as soon as I accelerated there is hell of a whine from the engine...I thought the police were chasing me!!! Anyway I opened the bonnet and noticed there is no air filter attached...so a few questions....

    1. Could the missing air filter be the cause of the whine (it does sound like it is channeling air)??

    2. How much does a complete air box cost (they did say they would take this off the price)?

    3. Also there is some oil evident on the top end of the engine?? Is there any mechanically minded members in the Manakau area that would be willing to have a quick look over it for me (would be much appreciated)?

    Needless to say this is quite urgent as she is keen, so need to know before the auction closes (or someone uses buy now).

    Thanks in advance.....

  6. Hi All,

    They followed the consumers law exactly.....If you can satisfactory repair the product offer an alternative!!

    They did have a few Subby's...another B4 and an RS30, but I thought I'd just be buying similar problems.......

    So SORRY guy's, I have defected!!

    I bought a V35 Skyline 350GT-8......Hope fully this provides me with trouble free motoring??

    I'm still going to keep popping in here now and again though as you're a great bunch of guys (& girls)...

    All the Best!

  7.  BigWillieStyles said:

    This is the same problem that Australian delivered B4s have which are also Rev Ds. Some owners report that having a front mount intercooler helps. But the ECUtek tune seems to be the most popular route to tackle the problem.

    Are there any Piggyback systems that have been used to counter the problem?

    It would be so much easier to just to do a complete sti single conversion by replacing the factory engine with the sti engine, ECU and everything else. ;D

    Anyone got any idea what a single turbo conversion costs?? I'll pay someone to do that if it's beneficial....any takers!!!

  8. Well, I'm certainly looking forward to all the feedback to this thread...

    As Spotme has said...and probably answered a question....mine is very bad at the moment, probably the warmer weather??

    I can't give any considerable acceleration, as I have a fear I will blow the engine...YES, it's that bad.

    I had a call from the garage I bought the car from today...out of the Blue!! Which has got me thinking?? They said "Are you sure it hasn't thrown No.4 Piston"? How would I know??

    I've had it in to 2 garages, they both think it's just a detonation issue, so that's what I'm following up on!

    Will probably put it in to Torque Performance and get them to resolve the issue...

    I'll keep you updated.

    Cheers

  9. Thought I'd start a seperate Thread to see if I get some feedback?

    This was the last update from Gazzy from someplace in ChCh

    This is what he said:

    - They said there is no Link ECU for the rev d,

    - No link ECUs support sequencial turbo control

    - said the det problem is rampant in the rev ds, they do heaps of them

    - A reflash will fix your problem

    - I said "I have heard that the reflash has not fixed the det problem in some cases" he said "all of their reflash tunes on the dyno have fixed the det on rev D leggys no worries, the problem lies if the reflash is done for 98 fuel and the customer goes and run 95 octane OR if there is something unforseen causing the det, this is uncommon"

    - I said how tunable are they when reflashing, i.e. with links you can keep pulling the timing until the det is gone" he said "they just keep relashing until the problems are fixed and they are happy"

    - He said " some times we have to reflash 30-40 times to keep pulling the timing, that is normal, but we dont let you drive away until it is spot on"

    - he said "they can tune for 95 Octane but it takes a little longer

    - they fully recommend 98 octane

    - their price was $1152

    So there we go, i learned something (will delete my last post)

    To summarise, as long as the tunner you go to is as good as these guys sound, a reflash is the way to go.

    I humbly appolgise if i have miss led you on this matter but feel we have a solid answer to this now.

    I'll need to come down to CHCH.....

    Just been quoted $1697 in Auckland for the same thing (Torque Performance)

    Anyone else know where to go?

  10.  gazzy2000']

    [quote name='gazzy2000 said:

    Fark it, i just rang NZEFI in CH-Ch (they are highly recommened down this way)

    Please read Garry..

    size=3]This is what he said:

    - They said there is no Link ECU for the rev d,

    - No link ECUs support sequencial turbo control

    - said the det problem is rampant in the rev ds, they do heaps of them

    - A reflash will fix your problem

    - I said "I have heard that the reflash has not fixed the det problem in some cases" he said "all of their reflash tunes on the dyno have fixed the det on rev D leggys no worries, the problem lies if the reflash is done for 98 fuel and the customer goes and run 95 octane OR if there is something unforseen causing the det, this is uncommon"

    - I said how tunable are they when reflashing, i.e. with links you can keep pulling the timing until the det is gone" he said "they just keep relashing until the problems are fixed and they are happy"

    - He said " some times we have to reflash 30-40 times to keep pulling the timing, that is normal, but we dont let you drive away until it is spot on"

    - he said "they can tune for 95 Octane but it takes a little longer

    - they fully recommend 98 octane

    - their price was $1152[/size]

    So there we go, i learned something :D (will delete my last post)

    To summarise, as long as the tunner you go to is as good as these guys sound, a reflash is the way to go.

    I humbly appolgise if i have miss led you on this matter but feel we have a solid answer to this now.

    GAzzy...your a star! Much appreciated..

    No problem with your previous advice...ur only trying to help!

    A Big Thanks...

    My pleasure, happy to help, please do let us know how you get on :)

    I'll need to come down to CHCH.....

    Just been quoted $1697 in Auckland for the same thing (Torque Performance) >:(

    Anyone else know where to go?

  11.  gazzy2000 said:

    Fark it, i just rang NZEFI in CH-Ch (they are highly recommened down this way)

    Please read Garry..

    This is what he said:

    - They said there is no Link ECU for the rev d,

    - No link ECUs support sequencial turbo control

    - said the det problem is rampant in the rev ds, they do heaps of them

    - A reflash will fix your problem

    - I said "I have heard that the reflash has not fixed the det problem in some cases" he said "all of their reflash tunes on the dyno have fixed the det on rev D leggys no worries, the problem lies if the reflash is done for 98 fuel and the customer goes and run 95 octane OR if there is something unforseen causing the det, this is uncommon"

    - I said how tunable are they when reflashing, i.e. with links you can keep pulling the timing until the det is gone" he said "they just keep relashing until the problems are fixed and they are happy"

    - He said " some times we have to reflash 30-40 times to keep pulling the timing, that is normal, but we dont let you drive away until it is spot on"

    - he said "they can tune for 95 Octane but it takes a little longer

    - they fully recommend 98 octane

    - their price was $1152

    So there we go, i learned something :D (will delete my last post)

    To summarise, as long as the tunner you go to is as good as these guys sound, a reflash is the way to go.

    I humbly appolgise if i have miss led you on this matter but feel we have a solid answer to this now.

    GAzzy...your a star! Much appreciated..

    No problem with your previous advice...ur only trying to help!

    A Big Thanks...

  12. Thanks for the advice!

    I'll be spending the money anyway, so from all your experience, if a link is the best option for me then quite happy to do this.

    Only thing is, with limited knowledge how easy is this to set up? Is it just the case of "plug and play"?

    The other option to me was just the easier one....

    Cheers

    garry

  13. Gazzy,

    Thanks for the info....

    The reflash & Dyno was around $1k, so willing to spend that on whatever will fix the problem.

    Only thing is I don't know where to start! Even if I bought an aftermarket ECU, doesn't mean this will solve the problem either??

    I spoke to Dave at torque performance and he said that the reflash should resolve the issue...

    Open to suggestions!!

  14. I thought this may be the case!

    I have problems with detonation and had the car in the garage a couple of times, neither has identified a fix.

    Would it be worth changing this to see if it helps??

    If so, where about is this positioned in the engine bay (B4 BE5)...

    Just thought I'd add...I'm not getting any codes identifying a fault, but am at the desperate stage!!! Will try anything to get rid of the "pinking" issue!

    Cheers

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