Garryg
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Posts posted by Garryg
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A while back i was talking to dave @ torque performance - and he said even running 98 octane B4 TTs were forced onto there base map for low octane...
For a low cost solution have you tried running on Gulls E10 ?
Tried Gulls for the last few days, but no difference.....still rattling away? I noticed on another thread with a guy that had a similar problem that turned out to be the piston!! Hopefully this is not the case in mine?? Anyway, how would you tell the difference??
Cheers
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I emailed Dave a few weeks back and he said he could do the reflash and send up to Warkworth for the Dyno...hopefully this will resolve...
As for fuel, no haven't tried Gull yet. Tried 98 from BP and MOBIL.
Might give this a go...
Cheers
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Going to try and solve the pinking issue from all angles...
Plugs have been raised as one option...and probably the cheapest!
Only thing is, they don't look the easiest to change???
If i buy, would anyone have some time to fit them for me? Just let me know how much?
WHile I'm asking the question....what's the best plugs to replace with?
Auckland area........
Cheers
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I'll leave the exact explanation to someone else...All I know is that it is something to do with the detonation of the fuel!!
Cheers
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Hi aarden,
I have the same issue and have had it in to 2 garages....if it's only ticking under acceleration I would say it's Pinking...same problem as mine!
Running 98 helps slightly, but does not get rid of the problem. I have been advised to retard the timing as this may solve the problem? I'm booking it in for a reflash and dyno at the end of Nov. so I'll let you know!
Other solutions that have been put to me are changing the plugs...
Unfortunate thing, is none of this is covered under my warranty!!! I have mechanical cover, but not electrical..
If you do get a fix, keep me updated!
Cheers
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Got a restrictor pill from the guys at Strongs for Subaru...
put it in and tried in anticipation.........
Boostin 12 psi on primary...WAHAY!! don't know about secondary yet as had my son in the car.....
Thanks everyone for your input...hopefully this will have an impact on my detonation issues also??
Cheers
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Hi Again....
Have you ever gone to your car hoping in anticipation something is not there.....
Checked for the restrictor pill and it's not there! Looks as though this short piece of pipe hase been replaced at some point....
Where can I get one of these? While I'm at it....is there meant to be one of these in both sides?
Thanks for all your help!!!
Cheers
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It is possible yours may have been removed?
However you need it for boost control with the subaru two port solenoid.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How-Subarus-Factory-Boost-Control-System-Works-v11-01
Might be the case & might answer a few of my questions?
I'll check this out and update you.
Cheers
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OK, after an afternoon of fun with the multimeter, I have got this up and running. Mine is the same arrangement as above, but I'd never actually seen it showing a picture on the whole screen of the way it's blowing the air, I've always just had some japanese words in the background and the heater control info on the left.
To sort this out:
1. Open up your dash around the stereo. There's another thread on how to do this on the legacy FAQs.
2. Remove existing stereo (double sized unit shown in the lower half of legacy666's picture below. It has the usual stereo mount arrangement with screws through the brackets into the sides of the stereo. There were three things plugged into mine - main white plug with stereo wiring which comes from the cars loom, the aerial plug, and a squarish black plastic and metal plug that was on a thick wire which comes out of the top unit with about 10 wires going into it.
3. Unplug all 3 (or more if you have CD changer controls or something). Use the aerial and stereo wiring to hook up your new stereo.
4. Take the square plug which is on the wire from the top unit. Remove the plastic around the plug so the wires are exposed.
5. Find the brown wire in the middle of the plug and cut it. Ground the end which connects to the unit (not the end that goes to the plug). I attached mine to one of the screws holding the brackets to the side of the unit itself. Cover the plug in insulating tape - don't need it anymore.
This made mine stay on all the time, even without the key in.
To make it go off with the key.
1. There is a plug which comes from the car loom and into the back of the nav unit.
2. Find the blue wire with a red stripe and cut it.
3. Tape up the end that goes to the loom so nothing can touch it.
4. Connect the end that goes to the unit to a 12v switched power source. You will have needed to find one anyway to hook up your new stereo so this should be easy. If you've used a repco adapter harness it will be the red wire.
All done. I think I'll still switch over to the other type without the nav unit alltogether when I find one, but at least I can have music in the mean time. Still need to find myself a din sized pocket as well.
Hi Raza...Thought I'd kick this thread in to play again to get a reply!
I tried the above after fitting a new D/Din head unit....I do have power going to the top screen now....so thanks! Only thing is, it is not the normal screen I had before the install...it is just a dark blue screen with japanese writing on it. Also, about every 5 mins it comes up a "BOOT ABORT". Then goes back to the Blue Screen....i can still see the heater conrols, but this only shows when i adjust the heater in any way.....
Anything else I can do to resolve this?
Cheers
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I already have one quote in the Auckland area, but has anyone else had theirs done and where would they recommend in the AUckland area?
An idea of costs would be great!
Cheers
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Cheers Telem....
Disconnected 23 and ran a wee bit....I actually got 10psi from the primary...just what I'm trying to achieve (wish I could just leave it off)!!
Anyway replaced this and blanked of 10 as mentioned.....Doesn't seem to have done very much really! Back to the drawing board???
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The return rpm 3300 may need to be increased. Trying to go on boost again (ie 3400rpm) before it has dropped back to 3300 rpm from 4500+ rpm you will be in parallel mode.
The ECV (large cannister/actuator)is located on the drivers side of the engine.There is an actuator rod connecting it to the ECV .
ECV can be fine tuned.
"You can adjust the actuator rod on the ECV to optimise the changeover.
Start the car cold (unless you have heatproof fingers) and undo the locknuts on the ECV adjustment rod and wind it out until you hear it rattle, then wind it in till the rattle stops and then another complete turn then redo the locknuts.
This allows it to leak a bit of boost on the primary before the changeover actually starts so it reduces it a bit.
You have to play with it a little to get the right amount of leakage or it makes less of a difference or you cant reach full boost on the primary and get poor primary response"
quote billsy
Any pics of this avtator rod??
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Hi Caged,
Everything is standard at the moment....(I believe). No mods have been made.
Cheers
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OK...need to find the problem!!
Having trawled through a number of posts everyone else seems to be getting 8-10psi primary and 12-14psi secondary!!
I've had my ECU reset....no difference still 6psi then 7??? the diagnostics also coming up with nothing...no error codes..
What do I need to check?? Was thinking of paying out for the reflash & Dyno, but will this give the results I'm looking for?? If it would....probably be money well spent!!
If this is the way I go, where would be the best place and what would be the costs?
Cheers
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On bg5 theres a vacum pipe mod on pipe 10 and a similar one for be/bh which makes boost 16/16 reduces vod i have done to both models and makes a huge difference in acceleration both cars have done over 30k with mod. DONT put boost tap in tt subs it takes control of boost away from ecu and is asking for big trouble thats what blew 1st motor in bg5
What is the mod? Might give it a go....
Cheers
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Got in touch with the guy who would do the remap & Dyno today....
It is a reflash and will be permanent. He also said that this will resolve my current issues....
& Conrad, the plugs have been highlighted from the garage, so this may be an option....
Cheers
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OK...Had the car inthe garage a couple of times now.. and they have come to the conclusion it is "Pinking".
I have been running on 98...and have also tried an octane boost. The garage has said to retard the timing a few degrees and this may help...
Only thing is this seems to be a temporary fix, as if the battery is disconnected it will revert back to what it is now.... and of course with it being electrical, it is not covered under my "Mechanical" Warranty (Sh#t)!
I have been quoted $950 for remap and Dyno from another garage, but I'm just wondering if this would be the same...(ie a permanent remap, or temporary)?? If this is a permanent fix...I don't mind paying the money!
Does anyone out there have the knowledge and equipment to adjust this for me?
Cheers
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if i went with the vf31 and 32 combo would i need to upgrade my injectors etc...???
Sorry to jump in on this thread.....
Are theses a straight forward bolt on option? Are any other mods required?
Boosting 18psi is a dam sight better than what I'm getting at the moment (7 rising to 8psi).....
Cheers
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2001 Aoto.
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Can anyone Retard my Timing??
in Engine Related
Posted
A further thought to my Pinking issue???
When I first got the car it certainly wasn't noticable.... The only thing thats changed from then, was the actator in the rear muffler!! It was noticed that the cable to operate this had been removed, so therefore wasn't opening when accelerating?
The garage therefore jammed it fully open.......would this slight change if the exhaust flow make any difference to the detonation while accelerating??