l2eeFer13
-
Posts
207 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by l2eeFer13
-
-
Im pretty sure im right in my description yeah? I know the diagram i drew up is wrong after watching 20 od Ej20 videos on youtube.
Right head to left head folling pipe on TMIC and Ts off to turbo inlet midway. People usually install a catch can in between inlet and TMIC pipe
-
So ive been building this EJ207 for a couple of years now. It keeps me busy when i visit family here as i no longer live here. Its a very slow process as i get so far and i am always missing something then its home time and back into it 6 months later...
ANYWAY..
Long story short. I pulled a EJ208 from my 99 Legacy. Was going to single turbo it. Ended up buying a EJ207 pulled from a V7 STi. Had a few things missing.
Is this diagram correct? or the below descripton?
Ive seen a few diagrams from 2.5L's and other models that show the right hand port on rocker cover in my diagram connecting to a dual hardline (one that follows Sti intercooler to left head rocker cover and connects to the same mirrored port and the other hardline connects to turbo inlet in diagram?
-
So this happened on the day before i flew out. Ordered a fuel pump and flew back to NZ yesterday. Installed it today and PROBLEM SOLVED. Started like a dream
-
1
-
-
Ok so my best bet is a fuel pump but would be curious to see if other people have had this problem or know of it.
The car is a 1996 WRX STi with a 89 closed deck block in it.
I took my bike out today and drove down a gravel road for 10 odd mins. Finished ride and started car up fine. I drove for 15 mins and could feel the car loosing power. Put foot down and would struggle to gain speed. Pulled over and checked fuel lines/hoses etc. started car back up. Drove for another 2 mins with same issue. Pulled over again for a better look then car wouldn't run. It would turn over and start for a second then cut out. It was doing this for about 10 mins and now it just tries to turn over but doesn't start.
I can smell fuel when I try and turn car over and I hear a short small hissing sound when I turn the key coming from fuel pump area
-
I read this on a post over at subyclub, something to consider
EDIT, we have been advised that it is not recommended to push the pedal all the way to the floor as it MAY cause damage to the cups inside the bore. Only push the pedal as far it would normally go when braking.
-
Can someone please confirm bleeding order on a 96 V3 WRX STi, I was under the impression it changes between models
p.s google is no help cause audm and usdm etc
-
-
Timaru
in Canterbury
You had it dynoed? Killer turbo man
-
Timaru
in Canterbury
Show us what the hype is about
-
So you have already have the car booked in? As D1 said. You should give it ago yourself. All you need is a jack and 2 stands. $150 and their yours or you can borrow some from a helpful memeber. Remove the wheels and adjust even amount of turns to the other side (if the car is already sitting at level) then go and get a wheel alignment
-
Timaru
in Canterbury
Welcome. Im in Aus but from Geraldine. Have a car in peaces their and a REX that you will most likely see around Timaru at some point. I used to get all my work done at Showgrounds. Shanes a good bloke. Bit pricey though on some things.
Got any pictures?
-
Hey everyone, just to let you know Hamish at H&N has fixed my fuel gauge. He really made it look like it was no big deal at all, he even done it for $70!
Basically there's solder points behind the gauge on the pcb board that look totally normal but Hamish showed me with a screw driver that when he pressed on the solders they caved in and this is what is called a "dry joint" (lack of connection)
New solders and it's like new. Very happy.
Glad you got it organised and even at a cheap price. Cant complain with that at all
-
I haven't done it before so don't know what is involved. Everyone has said that it has to replaced with the right one by matching the numbers on the back.
The guy at Sub a roo auto parts reckons there's a silver box on the back of it that controls the illumination but also the fuel gauge and said it's possible you could just swap this part but doesn't know for sure.
Hamish at H&N sounds confident he knows how to fix it so I'll wait to see how this goes.
The silver box only makes everything bright. When i done my swap i tried it without the box and everything was very dull so i doubt that it will control the fuel gauge reading itself. Can pick up a new cluster for $50 from the right wrecker and will be a straight swap. Maybe even ask to test first but then your odo will be off
-
Have read that swapping to the blackout cluster isn't quite as simple as dropping it in. Have you done it yourself? Think all the wiring was different from memory, can't speak from experience but there was something that made it a semi major hassle to do.
Yeah i done it myself. I had both pin out diagrams. Unpinned everything from old plugs and then re pinned them into new plugs following new diagram. Their was a guy over at subyclub making harnesses that would come in handy for some people
-
$90 is pretty good really. Do you have the basic cluster (green lights) or the back lit one with orange halos? Could be worth doing that swap if it is the old one. Not much to it
-
I just bought a set of 4pots from them for mt V3. Pretty cheap at $180 shipped and arrived following day
-
What sort of Legacy mate?
-
I got both sets off TM for $207 shipped and they were here the next morning. Was pretty happy with that as their was another auction selling just the main bearings for like $202
-
Unless their roughed up and blocked at the seconary up pipe flange, but then your missing an up pipe anyway =D
-
If anyone needs help with this in the future. This was from ACL directly
"Your engine would be a Phase 2, which are 1999-on. Phase 2 engines normally take the mains sets with #5 thrust as you thought, and have a 52mm journal big end.
So part numbers are 4B8296H and 5M8309H"
-
Looking forward to seeing this build progress. Pretty cool you found the original owner =)
-
These are the ones i have so only one avcs solenoid. Hard to tell from pic but think the others suit sensors.
Cheers for that evo. Do you want those plugs or happy to sell? Ill give partsworld a call and see what they will charge for the single solenoid plug. Might just be cheaper getting all 4 from them as shipping one might not be worth it
-
After a bit of help with choosing bearings
Ill be going with ACL but am unsure about the "thrust flange". Their are kits for it to fit middle #3 or end #5. Im presuming its the big bearing that slots in from both sides? So in the pic below it will be the end bearing which i have labeled as #5. Is this correct??
Then theirs the conrod bearings with either 48mm or 52mm sizes. What set will i need? This is just after a quick look on trademe auctions
-
Presuming these are the AVCS plugs?
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 148 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
EJ207 PCV system
in Engine Related
Posted
Cheers for link. Wish i had it a week ago