l2eeFer13
-
Posts
207 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by l2eeFer13
-
-
I stripped mine down when i did my conversion and with 177,000km on the clock it had questionable heads and semi glazed bores. I gave the bores a little tickle up with a hone and replaced all the rings along with completely rebuilt heads. Didn’t do the BEB as they appeared to be fine and splitting the block was one step further than I was prepared to go. If the engine is going to be out and you’re removing heads to do head gaskets id throw in a set of rings while you’re in there. They are cheap and not hard to replace. Also timing belt etc should be done if it’s not already new. that all being said if you have plans to go to a v7+ sti block then maybe just do the conversion and enjoy it while it lasts who knows.
Dude you make a really a good point their. It would make more sense to save the money to put towards the new engine. The car will be off the road for a while getting panels repaired and painted so maybe ill decide then what i will do. But this is what gets me. I done a facebook video diagnosis with the following video. This is what gives me the false hopes and dreams that the engine wont get me stranded in the middle of no where
What do you guys recon. Piston slap? The sound goes away once shes warmed up. Would this be a simple fix if i was to strip down the engine??
-
So im going down the single turbo conversion path and removing the engine to do so. While the engine is out is their anything worth doing to extend its life. I know its sort of pointless getting some mad internals for the EJ208 over a SCD but it would be good to drive the car down the road knowing i can give it a bit here and their without it running a BEB. Engine has 180km on it. Only owned it for 5000kms and unsure of any previous work like rebuilds, gaskets etc.
Im looking at doing the Gates racing alt, ac and timing belts, spark plugs, water pump and head gaskets. Can you recommend anything else?
-
What AJT said, apply thick coats if you plan on having it on for a year and wanting to remove it. I done my Maloo in Aus and after a year and a half they got clogged up with brake dust and dirt so i thought it was time to peel it off. All the front came off fine but i dont the inner rim also but only lightly. Wouldnt peel off so a **** load of degreaser is your friend at getting it all off. I ended up getting over it and bought new rims and sold the stock pentagons
-
Just sent them a message. Thanks mate
-
Anyone know where to grab this stuff these days online?
-
If using an OEM single turbo downpipe you will need the matching gearbox cross member.
You will need a matching up pipe/turbo bracket, the TT ones don't fit. Shown on post #27 in here:[/url]
By looking at the downpipe in the pic are you are to tell if i will need the matching cross memeber?
As this setup has the waste gate T pipe will i have to go for a custom turbo bracket?
Ignore the TD06. Ill be swapping it out for a VF28/29
-
Im not sure what brands the up pipe and downpipe are as i still havent actually seen them
But going off this pic and matching them with evowrx's thread im guessing i will need
44022AA150 - Turbo inlet gasket.
44022AA180 - Turbo outlet gasket.
44022AA170 - Manifold to uppipe gasket (maybe another for downpipe to zorst)
And a costom one for up pipe to wastegate T pipe (hopefully theirs one already their in good condition)
aswell as the two manifold gaskets rossub mentioned
-
Rossub you are the frikken man. Thank you so much for putting your time into getting links etc. Also love all your write ups man. You put a lot of photos and detail into them
-
RESERVED for pretty final pictures
-
Basically i am after a complete list for every single little thing that is needed for the conversion going right down to bolts and gaskets.
I have read through the single conversion 3.0 thread on dirtyolbc and about 20 half finished threads scattered all across the world wide web but after reading in some places that i need a v5/6 manifold and then reading through Rossubs posts i can use the existing one.
The following is a list of parts that i know i need and what i already have.
- Also if you have any of these to sell PM me
GOT - EJ207 STi Long block
GOT - Intake pipe
GOT - Gaskets
GOT - FMIC
GOT - TD06
GOT - Up pipe
GOT - Down pipe
GOT - EQ Headers
GOT - Zorst
GOT - Oil feed lines
GOT - Waste gate
DO I NEED - Up pipe bracket
DO I NEED - Heater core pipes and hoses (only if im going TMIC right?)
DO I NEED - ST oil return pipe. Apparently TT fouls on the up pipe
DO I NEED - VF28 Turbo bracket
I work over in Aus so instead of being home and finding out everything as i go i want to try and organize as much as i can before i fly home as i normally only go home for a week then if i dont have something ill have to wait for the next trip home.
Obviously im a complete noob so any help is appreciated. Feel free to add to the list
I will be updating this main post when my questions are answered and when i gather new parts etc
-
you should put a a few more pics so everyone knows exactly how to get around the alarm in your car .
also your address would be helpful
for door open find the wire that goes to the "door" setting for the interior light . or where ever it triggers the barrel light etc
Yeah because somebody can come and steel my car by showing them pictures of my looms. The exact looms that are in every other B4 in the world. Also you cant use the interior light because it dims off so you would physically have to close the door and stand their for 5 seconds until it turns off before you can lock the car and if the dome light was turned to off instead of door the alarm wouldn't go off. Genies
-
Hey guys so today i attempted to install a mongoose 60S alarm into my subie. I have done all the basics and am left with
Door Trigger - Cannot find this anywhere (im presuming their is one wire that detects all 4 doors being open)
Lock - NO (has fuse)
Unlock - NO (has fuse)
Unlock - common
Lock - NC
Unlock - NC
Lock Common
Im aware that i dont use all of the locking cables but what ones do i use?
I have the cable that locks and unlocks the doors but im unsure how to wire into it. Their was a previous alarm installed into the car and they had a relay going into the one cable. When i cut the cable the doors will lock and when i test it, it unlocks from being connected to earth
Ive been trying to follow this wiring diagram but to be honest its not much help
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1985.html
All help is appreciated. Even pics of your install
Wire that locks/unlocks doors. Ignore the brown wire
Same loom beside accelerator pedal
Will the door trigger be in any of the following looms?
Loom above fuse box
Looms above pedals
Diagram for central locking wiring
-
Is that looking down into the pipe Rosssub? How do you rate your Apexi? What sort of difference in note does it sound like compared to the Genome?[quote name='sobanoodle said:
I had a Fujutsubo Legalis Super R, awesome quality and very nice sound, had it coupled with a 3" FGK midpipe .Just wish I could find some for the BLE (will have to live with HKS Premiums for now
)Ive been told buy a lot of guys from the Subyclub forum in Aus that the fuji muffler had a nice sound. How loud would you rate it over the genome? Im more after loud. Not stupid loud though like a hole in the exhaust etc
-
Rosssub']With the expense of shipping then modifying one from yahoo, you might be better off grabbing this:
http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/muffler-sti-genome-legacy-98-03-sedan
Yeah i did see that on subaruspeed but he wants $75 ($370 total) for shipping. I was quoted around the $200 mark shipped from Japan which was pretty cheap i thought.
[quote name='sobanoodle said:
Or just get something else, imho Genomes are not the best ones around (sound/build quiality wise). Had one on my BH5 wagon and happily sold after a week, never regretted.I have had others in mind like Fujitsubo and Blitz Nuro Spec etc but my minds pretty well set for the Genome. I actually have a cheapo sitting at home i picked up for $100 off trademe but never got around to fitting it. Maybe i should just go through the effort of getting it welded on....
-
So im after a Sti Genome muffler on yahoo auctions and have been keeping an eye out for the last couple weeks for a BE muffler to pop up but sadly nothing
Their are plenty of BH mufflers that i know fit straight in but im aware that the muffler tip is a few inches longer than the sedan version. Looking at the GD/GG muffler the tip looks about the same length as the BE muffler. So basically what im getting at is what sort of mods would i have to do to fit the GD/GG muffler to the BE
Im guessing just re weld the mounts as the piping and muffler itself looks the same
-
Sweet hopefully i can get some around Timaru easy then
-
Cheers Rossub. Yeah my last resort was to call around but was just seeing if theirs anywhere I can buy online. I found a place here in Aussie but I don't think I would be allowed to take it on the plane with me
-
As my car was in pretty rough shape when I got it so I would like to give it a nice and fresh service.
Does anyone know where to get the products listed in title or similar? A quick look on trademe and google NZ didn't really show me many results
Cheers all
-
I came across these on summit but only fit 92-94
-
Some awesome info here guys. Thanks all for your input. Second hand coilovers are now off the table. Im actually really liking viper guys option. How low did it make your car overall? Also do you have a link where you purchased yours from?
A set of D2 coilovers are around the 1k mark on trademe and XYZs around $1300
-
Im just wondering what you guys paid roughly for your adjusties.
Its a toss up between new struts and king springs LOW (Springs alone $240) or second hand coil overs off yahoo auctions (around $600 total + cert cost)
My current billie struts and springs knock a fair but when going over speed bumps slow and up driveways etc
-
Thanks for that guys =)
-
So ive purchased some 4pot brakes (front) for my BE Legacy. Do i need to get them certed to be legal/warrant passable?
-
Haha yeah im out Geraldine way. I was actually talking to him about it. Will do it with a supplied clutch for about $850. Where as my usual Timaru mechinic quoted $1240 or $600 supplied parts
The clutch they were going to use was R1911N which im assuming is the stock one?
Only neg thing is i cant really get the car to CHCH but i can get it to Timaru easy and then theirs warrenty etc if it does **** out
)-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 116 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Extending the life of a EJ208... Yeap
in Engine Related
Posted
Ive actually just come across this. Funny enough its in my home town where my car is located
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-939094752.htm
This is a CDB correct?