4foot
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Posts posted by 4foot
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looks like tank spray from the seam ... or even maybe the front of the top hose ...
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I ran 7s whn i was stock and stayed with them when i st\'d ran and runs sweet
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agreed ... they are worth sweet F all unfortunately just like the standard amps that are in the car ... best off having a reasonably large paper weight, if you dont want to bin it ...
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Hi guys my E-tune 2001 Legacy has had a bit of a fuel smell through the air con in the cold mornings or just on startup when the engine is cold for a while now - and I have done a bit of searching and found that the problem seems to be with the fuel hoses under the Manifold?
I have also noticed that the fuel consumtion seems to be not very good for an E-tune - Im only getting about 380kms or less on a tank
Can people confirm that I will have to take the manifold off and how long a job this is?
Cheers
woah soooo many kms to a tank !! around 380km seems pretty good ... back when my BE5 was twin it wasnt that good .. mind you it all comes down to how you drive ..
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have you tested the fuel pump .. It could be possible that what ever is causing the "hopping" "cutting" etc was causing something somewhere to knock with the old knock sensor (just throwing that out there) another thing that Ive heard of that could be worth checking on the older Legacy is the earth points, Ive been told that if the earth isnt very good it can lead to a hole bunch of random things going wrong ...
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strong for subaru also sell new knock sensors, I think I picked one up for a mates V7 for like 90 bux or there abouts
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when i did my BE i had to get a female to male extension. There was both male and female plug just down on the bottom left which I always thought was for the left and right antenna.. but anyway with the extension cord it fitted all the way up to the pioneer unit i put it (the original Macintosh unit had both a male and female cord that went down to join @ the plugs ... where as a jap radio just has a plug needing that little extra length) Ive never had poor reception ... touch wood ...
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Bro its the best way to learn ... as long as ur plan isnt to build it fully forged etc.. best thing to do is find out what car it came out of and hit the net looking for a Manuel.. the subaru world is massive and you find the oddest things u never thought you would on different forums plus the years and year worth of experience these forum users have ...
just dont know the lingo mate, i have rebuilt several 4ks (which i know are easy) and nissan motors, If i have the workshop manual how hard can it be?? it shows you step by step.... And end in tears?? i spent 50bucks on it... Not a big loss, and if it is bothered ill get that money back in scrap metal. Yet alone will be a big learning curve, Im a auto sparky apprentice by trade, i may not know all the mechanical side that well, but it isnt hard to pick up.
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Vadz PM me you best email address and ill try get my video to you .. just keep in mind its idling a little hi and its a 3" with one center and onr rear muff but u can get the idea from it ..
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I had the top set on my legacy when i did the ST and would agree with the evo statement .. with a 3" exhaust, I was 200kw with them and it was a very loud kw .. best comment I had got was " bro you car sounds sort of like a subie at idle, an evo when you start taking off, and an evo on roids when boosting... (just personal experience) Also they where very torquey .. the back of the car on bilstenz would totally drop, as soon as i went to standard the back stopd dropn..
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Single turbo ooooyeah sooo much better
Standard, I thought she was as bad ass as they came
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wasn\'t today, but lastnight; shot a deer in the driveway, and drove down to put it in the back, but as I was turning around up further; I cracked my lip! now the middle piece is kinda cracked out I\'ll have to take it off, clean the bugger, sand it and fibrelglass, then get it painted or take the lip off until all my gravel bashing is over lol!
single turbo BH5 GT-B = EPIC gravel basher!(handbrake works very well!)
annnd the deer... you seem to have left half the story off....
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yeah unless the wheels were on backwards the camber shouldnt be the cause on the outside edge.. to me with a little background in tyres.. it looks to me that the inside scrubbed out due to camber and blew out or leaked out n went flat causing the scrubbing on the out side edge.. sorry i only saw the out side picture at first glance and just saw the other on from the inside now ..
Yeah rubbing was the first thing i checked and there was nothing it could rub on as the camber sits nowhere near the guard.
low pressure sounds about right though as the inner on the opposite side has worse camber wear ?
heres a pic anyway for reference...
looks alot worse in person
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unless the car looks like the wheels are falling off .. its very much not going to be out side edge camber or toe wear.. for camber and toe to wear like that on the outside the wheels would be tucked up into the car like plane wheels when they put them away.. from my view its either very light guard rub or as stoffa said damage from being driven on flat.. or even from low pressure
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try "car sure" they do pretty sweet cover and sweet prices
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What comes with a 3.9 ratio rear diff? and anyone got one the no longer require?
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hey, dumb question here. Does anyone know what the bad effects are? If you put TOO MUCH oil in your engine, Ive overfilled my oil on accident... Its at about half on the dip stick. Want to take sump bolt off so i can let some oil out but the sump bolt is rounded and I cant get it off.. im Effffd... im still using the car, is it still safe to drive as is?
Usually what happens is, if the oil is high enough that it touches the crankshaft and it whips the oil so that it gets air in it. Like when you beat eggs with an egg beater ... Not much good for lubricating the bearings properly. Also, it can often get on the cylinder walls, making it hard for your rings to seal ...
It probs would be best to try get some of it out ... Mind you on the other hand some people will add 500ml when they take their can on the track to allow or the oil to run side to side an not starve the oil feed ... I spose it would come down to how much u have over filled it ...
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In the last 3 days ...
Wing mirror to replace the one someone kindly smashed
Full front brakes pads and discs brand new cost under a hundy bux
Stop lamp bulb
Just need to find me a good WOF place that doesn't mind my exhaust ... It's a little loud and I'm sorted ... anyone got a WOF ticket ? Or knows a place ... I want it checked but not all strict on exhaust and little bits like that .... In aux area ...
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Hey Dude and welcome 8)
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Ok so just doing a little fishing here,
Do anyone know anything about changing the IAC valves from one type to another? is it even do able? what im trying to find out is if one can successfully change from a Legacy, V5, V6 IAC to a V7 ICA which is totally different?
I have a way of doing what i want by totally not using the IAC and just cracking the butterfly open but was interested to see if anyone here had actually done a "mod" to change them ...
Cheers
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Two new spanking rear tyres that completes the set with only a week in between yay 4 new tyres !!! Changes the exhaust manifold in the weekend too hellooooo rumble !!! Bi bi Honda crossed with mitsi crossed with crop duster noise :
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I read an artical the other day on facebook for STM performance they had a legacy that had full V7 sti running gear and a link ... tuned it all and it made like 207kW or somethink like that .. I single turbod my legacy and made 200kW on a factory non sti ECU .... and it cost no where near the price the guy with the V7 gear had payed .....
I vote single turbo ...
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iPad in Legacy dash
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
it looks pretty sweet...