turborunner
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Posts posted by turborunner
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-704385087.htm
Is it the one that was stolen repainted?
it likes he couldnt affort an mitsi evo so brought a subaru imprezza and dressed it up to look like an early evo
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This is why I feel Trademe should not let cars with security owning on them be allowed to sell their cars on there website. they should atleast have a system in place to check up on a cars history before it goes on for sale on the site... so when someone buys a car on trademe thinking its free hold and then to find out later down the track it has money owing on it is really not on- really pays to do the $3 txt to FIND to save you from being ripped off
i agree with you there. They charge enough to list a car as an auction or classified atleast they could do is to do a security check on the car to make sure its not stolen or money owing on it or wanted by the police to protect the buyer and stop theives from using their service to sell the stolen or a car with money owing on it.
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Easy way out - get Logan to build you a good one?
/quote]for how much tho an in Hamilton?
you can download a sub box program where you enter the specs of what the sub requires in the manual and the space you putting it into and the thickness of the wood you will be using and it will tell you the final dimension for the box
one called winisd sub box designer which i think is still free
a payed program called BassBox Pro
will most probably be more expensive to make than to buy one of those prefabbed ones but the custom one you or somebody you know is good with basic carpentry would be stronger and made to spec for that particular sub and should sound better but as everybodys ears are different some might not tell the difference between a custom box to a prefabbed one just like the difference between an mp3 to cd or dvd-audio
all you need is a screw driver, some screws, no more nails(i didnt use this i used one that creates a rubber seal for vibrations, jigsaw to cut hole for sub and mdf wood(i brought some 18mm mdf from bunnings and got them to cut it on the saw to my peices so all that required was to glue and screw it together.
also if you going for a ported box than a sealed one have a look at those programs as i think they might be able to do them as well but probably be a bit more involved in the construction and maybe best left to a pro custom box builder for ported boxes or get a prefabbed ported one
you could use the program to get your measurements so you can figure how much wood you\'ll require then you could price all the materials from an hardware store and have a ruff idea on how much it wiill cost to make one excluding the price if you pay somebody to make it for you
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damn missed out, does it come with the smaller pipe for the turbo solinoid thingy to connect?
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what a load of plastic to go brittle over time and cost a fortune to fix what yeah and models are the plastic manifold from?
Engine flush, upper engine cleaner and oil change.
In the process of trying to find a vacuum hose to remove, broke the plastic tube going to the intake manifold from the thing indicated below. Can anyone tell me what it is? Would it cost me much to replace? Want to replace it asap so probably have to get a new one, don\'t really want to wait for one from a wrecker.
URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/wwmu.jpg/]
[/url]Why not the vac hose that comes off the BoV?
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Detonation usual cause of failure assuming correct oiling. Knock sensor issue? My favourite suspect along with lean fuelling to the associated piston due to being last on the fuel rail.. Assumed No3? (drivers side rear?)
A better computer than the standard along with split rail fuelling could/should/will prolong engine life when re tuned correctly too. Esp BE failure wise.
;)yeah i asked if they tested the fuel pump to make sure it was reading correct presures and they said it reading good but only tested at idle didnt test at high revs as might have totally finished the job
are there any cons with split rail fuelling?
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I would figure out why your engine packed up after 30 000ks first before buying a new block
tried sent it to winger when i heard the problem and they ran test without stripping engine down. but could not tell me why it failed they have put on the reciept saying it was low on engine oil by 100mls even tho the dipstick has the oil about 5mm higher than the max line
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Preventative measures.... that few a kms on a new block might suggest your treatment of it has not been break..
Wound the boost up?
Beat it when its cold?
Run crappy fuel in it?
Weird chipped ecu?
Hi,
havnt wound the boost up (dont have a boost tap or any other controller installed just the factory ecu, the car came with the bigger exhaust and lowered from japan
Only ever boosted hard when its warmed up never driven hard or over 2,000rpm when cold and also have never redlined it only been to 6,000 anything more your wasting your time as it does\'nt make any more power past that just my opinion
Only run the best bp98 have never put anything less since the last rebuild
never chipped the ecu still factory as far as i know im the first nz owner dont know what happened over japan
winger did tests and couldnt come up with a reason why it ran the bigend.
I just want to know if there is anything else that can reduce the risk of running another
i did overheat that didnt make the temp guage read hot but could hear bubbling water in the radiator but fixed that pretty fast as it was a partial blockage in the heater core but that was like a year before the bearings went maybe that might have shorten the life. i don\'t know
i\'ve used those engine flushes when changing oil could that be the problem
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Anybody know a good place in Hamilton that rebuilds Subaru turbo motors to go in my Subaru 96 wrx sti v2 wagon.
I have ran a bigend before and had mechanical breakdown insurance got winger to put a brand new shortblock, and now 30,000kms, 4 and a half years later it has done another bigend but i don\'t have mechanical insurance now so have to pay for it and winger wants too much(can buy a new car for what they want) so just want a rebuilt longblock sti exchange basis fitted with warranty.
or rebuild my current motor that has noisy lifters so would need some work done on the heads.
any suggestions on what i should do as i have only got around $3000 total to spend and would also like anything that can be fitted for extra preventative measures so that it doesn\'t run another bearing again
I service it every six months which i only do between 5,000 to 7,000kms with castrol edge 5w30 and genuine filter every time as that what castrol recommends and the Subaru workshop manual states
the current engine mods
removed intake resonator with straight pipe(have not done snorkelectomy yet)
Big exhaust from i think its turbo back still have factory up pipe
just doing cheap mods that don\'t require certification
pretty factory otherwise
thanks for your positive comments
Turborunner
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im in the process in putting my dash back in, you have to get the air con degassed as you need to remove the a/c box to get the heaterbox out that has the heatercore in it and while your at it you might as well clean all the boxes out like i have done as it was full of grime and shit. but ive got alot of time as my motor has run a bigend bearing:-(
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nobody said it was easier to do the headgasket with motor still incar. The guy in the video prefers removing the engine he is just showing that it can be done without removing engine. you probably spend the same time fighting with it as you would of removing the engine to start with.
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heres a guide on how to do it with engine still in car
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may also need new wheels. As the factory v2 sti gold rims wont clear the 4pots.
v3-v6 sti gold rims clear 4pot and v7 sti will clear 4pots and brembos. so you\'ll have to check your wheels if you know somebody who has the 4 pots see if you can test fit your wheels to see if they clear. i\'ve done the 4pot and 2pot job using the backing plates from the v7/8 wrx rear hubs so have new wheel bearings in the back.
I\'ve got them running on znoelli slotted and dimpled drilled rotors with goodridge braided brake lines and castrol super responsive fluid but might try that motul rbf600 when i replace the front brake lines as i use the longer brake lines of the goodridge set in the back as the original was to short.
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ken block\'s San Francisco
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sti ski-ing
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I then wrote to the police and provided them evidence that I was going to the exhaust shop
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evidence would include what then : receipt on same day as fine?
Would include the wof test sheet to prove what you failed on and receipt of repairs on the day caught driving and also you should have gotten a new wof and registration on the day which is further proof that you was sorting it as you cant get a rego without a current wof, but would of been more benificial to have shown the officer the wof sheet and said you were on your way to get the repairs and new wof and rego done as he may of given you a grace period to get off the wof and rego fine so you maybe out of luck since it has gone through the system but you can still fight it if its worth your time and money, you may win or lose
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Hope its nothing major. but with the noises it sounds pretty major have you checked the fluid level since maybe it\'s got a small leak and by the time you got to taupo it was very low
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I\'ve heard steam cleaning the engine bay premotes rust but it could just be myth should contact myth buster to bust it, i just cover the electricals, alternator with plastic bags and myst spray with garden hose, then spray degreaser, then use a brush to move the harsh dirt and rinse off with another myst spray then start car and take it for a spin to dry faster.
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1. depends how often you change it good to have done if it has never been done, might also improve the brakes with a good bleed.
2. every 2 years maybe depends if your just driving on the road or racing if your racing you might bleed them before an event, if your brake pads last that long you might be best to change and bleed the brake fluid at same time. but do the pad first as you\'ll need to push the pistons back and can be made easier by releasing the bleed nipple which will then require bleeding
3. always best to use the recommended dot of your vehicle as the dot 5 or is it 5.1 is made of a different chemical and is not compatible with dot 4 systems and cant be mixed which is not best to mix any fluid
Look at the specs of the dot specific fluid as some have different spec that can handle higher temperature etc.. but cost more depending what you use your car for road or racing
4. not that i know of just turkey buster old fluid out of reservour leaving a little bit at bottom to minimise the introduction of air and put new fluid in and do a complete bleeding at the nipples untill new fluid come thru and there is no air.
order of bleeding for subarus its front right, rear left, front left, rear right there are guides in the maintenance section i recommend the two person bleeding technique
also dont spill any brake fluid as its corrosive and will damage paintwork etc.. so if you do accidently spill it wash it off immediately with degreaser or something as it doesnt take long to see the damage
always best to leave it to a qualified mechanic if your not sure of what your doing as brakes are important in saving your life.
/quote]
Think ou\'ll find the proceedure is nearest to master cyl to furtherest away . RF LF RR LR - well thats what the service manual says
prob doesnt matter so long as you do all 4 tho
in my subaru wrx service manual it states it uses a diagonal system bleading Front Right, Rear Left, Front Left and Rear Right its all over the internet i\'ve also have been told you start from the furtherest away from master cylinder and get closer to cylinder but this has been stated in my wrx manual and has always worked the best maybe legacies and foresters uses a different brake system or requires a different method but just saying what my wrx manual states
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1. depends how often you change it good to have done if it has never been done, might also improve the brakes with a good bleed.
2. every 2 years maybe depends if your just driving on the road or racing if your racing you might bleed them before an event, if your brake pads last that long you might be best to change and bleed the brake fluid at same time. but do the pad first as you\'ll need to push the pistons back and can be made easier by releasing the bleed nipple which will then require bleeding
3. always best to use the recommended dot of your vehicle as the dot 5 or is it 5.1 is made of a different chemical and is not compatible with dot 4 systems and cant be mixed which is not best to mix any fluid
Look at the specs of the dot specific fluid as some have different spec that can handle higher temperature etc.. but cost more depending what you use your car for road or racing
4. not that i know of just turkey buster old fluid out of reservour leaving a little bit at bottom to minimise the introduction of air and put new fluid in and do a complete bleeding at the nipples untill new fluid come thru and there is no air.
order of bleeding for subarus its front right, rear left, front left, rear right there are guides in the maintenance section i recommend the two person bleeding technique
also dont spill any brake fluid as its corrosive and will damage paintwork etc.. so if you do accidently spill it wash it off immediately with degreaser or something as it doesnt take long to see the damage
always best to leave it to a qualified mechanic if your not sure of what your doing as brakes are important in saving your life.
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One badass camaro damn shame he doesnt know what hp its making or ran it down the 1/4 mile bit of waste for a showcar
;)
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Car Crimes
in General Vehicle Discussion
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ive been to an american car shows and there were more american cars and nicer looking ones in the customer carpark than in the show itself, could of saved some money and just looked at the cars in the carpark