4x4fun
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Posts posted by 4x4fun
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Its actually a build idea. You can buy the short blocks for $2800 US + shipping but I was wondering if there was a supplier in NZ. GRB short block + v3 heads for a reliable build
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Just wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of the best place to buy brand new Subaru parts or maybe a club contact within Subaru. Specifically after a w20c ej20 short block out of a GRB and head/casing bolts. I realize it probably would be cheaper to import but was hoping someone might have some ideas. Cheers, Scott
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It would be smoking from the cat being red hot. Dead coil = fuel dumped in exhaust = very hot cat
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I thought then ran the ecv on a duty cycle to control boost. That doesn't sound like a bad idea. Does anyone know the power(flow) limit of the two turbos?
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Wow those are some tidy headers. Thats a very good point and i wish i could afford a twin scroll system (would be much more ideal) but i was just thinking cost wise to get some decent power/flow and defeating the vod.
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Also by cutting and welding on a primary flange on the up pipe I'll be removing the ecv.
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because you need two wastegates, with it locked it in secondary turbo mode it has no boost pressure control for the secondary turbo. why an aftermarket ecu when a wrx one will plug in?
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The reason i don't want to lock it into secondary turbo mode is that the flange/exhaust control valve for the secondary turbo is super restrictive and i figured i could use 3" downpipes with 2 primary turbos and not worry about overspooling. Does anyone have an idea how hard you could push 2 vf26's or similar. Looking at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141476 it states they are good for at least 250whp(400cfm) is it all talk?
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In my head sounded alot easier because of keeping existing piping and afaik the exhaust y pipe and intercooler should all be able to fit(might have to use the secondary turbo compressor housing. The idea is so it has semi equal length headers (2 cyl feeding each turbo) and could possibly reach 350bhp with exhaust and inlet mods and tune rather then sourcing another exhaust manifold and turbo and having to block off the oil and water lines plus might be able to disguise it as a stock legacy haha
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I know this kind of thing has been covered before but looking to get thoughts on a specific idea.
As a cheap alternative to converting to single turbo has anyone thought about cutting off the secondary turbo flange and replacing it with a primary turbo and removing all the twin turbo gear and running an wrx sti ecu and aftermarket boost control. I realize there could be a decent bit of lag but the system should be able to flow a decent amount of air and perhaps have a similar fuel economy to a wrx because of staying off boost under mild driving. Would this be easy to get a custom tune?
Any opinions/ideas (apart from single turbo is better lol)?
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Or bad valve stem seals
Black smoke can be a oil burning as well. Have the checked it for error codes just incase its running rich for a reason? -
I have a spare one out of a 98ish, as far as i know 92-98 are all the same. it should be a plug on the side of the gearbox with 2 wires coming out.
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I've found this and I thought I might share...
Transmission identification codes start with a "T" and an example would be:
TY856WB1AA
"T" = transmission code
"Y" = that it is a manual awd gearbox
"85" = the transmission classification...in the case of manual gearboxes this number indicates the gear shaft spacing in millimeters. 6-speed transmissions use an 85mm shaft spacing while the current generation of 5-speed transmissions use a 75mm shaft spacing.
"6" = some reference to the transmission case. "6" is used for 6-speeds, "4" is used for 8-bolt 5-speeds, "2" for 4-bolt Impreza 5-speeds, "5" for Forester 8-bolt 5-speeds, "3" for 4-bolt Forester 5-speeds, and "7" for some Legacy turbo 8-bolt 5-speeds.
"W" = transmission specification. "W" is 6-speed, "V" is 5-speed, "Z" = AT with MPT, "Y" = AT with VTD, etc.
"B1AA" = indicates various details about the equipment such as center diff. type, front LSD, etc. and also about minor production changes.
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1+ for that mine does the same thing occasionally but its only the drivers side dripping onto the exhaust manifold
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Just a thought does your engine check light even work ;D
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have one here in good condition for offers. not sure what its worth. I recommend replacing the banjo fitting on the heads with one that doesnt have a filter to prevent destroying another turbo
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Nope your probably thinking of the heater element in the oxygen sensor (lambda sensor). My 96 gtb only has one oxygen sensor and AFAIK the second oxygen sensor came in when cars fully switched to obd2 though in saying that not all cars have a second one to check if the cat is working properly
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Yea ive read that but i want to know if it will bolt up and line up correctly in my gtb and the driveshaft is suited. thanks
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Just wondering would i v5 impreza sti gearbox fit into a 96 gtb? im fairly sure its a 4.444 front diff but is there anything other to consider?
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Ok thanks, can you buy a kit to do all front or back bushes or do you have to buy separably? its all same year wrx stuff (strut braces, lower suspension) compatible?
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Just wondering what sort of after market parts to stiffen up the ride besides springs and sway bars The reason being as i saw someone had put in STI Alloy Arms and wondering if anyone else has done it before?
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this may be a silly question but the front diff and the gearbox share the same oil in a manual gtb dont they?
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hahaha my bad. Dam should have proof read that
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Yea that looks heaps better then my bent fin one haha if only there was heaps of sti ones around lol
Black smoke can be a oil burning as well. Have the checked it for error codes just incase its running rich for a reason?-
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Buying genuine parts
in Engine Related
Posted · Edited by 4x4fun
specifically its this part number: 11008ab210 for the extra strong semi closed deck block halves or 10103AB470 for a slightly weaker short block (probably the go)