Swindog
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Posts posted by Swindog
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Out of all the new age stuff, that above is def my fave.
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replace the bearing anyway. for the sake of $90 or whatever they are, you took the time to get the hub out.
You can make your own press btw.
10 ton bottle jack and some timber will see you right.
simple timber frame with a 90 x 90 post across the top with a hanger for the jack. easy.
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Sign up to Carjam the reports are only $10.
Looks ok but id look close at that engine mod. Looks rough from the pic but mnight be the pic quality.
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Just wondering if anyone is travelling from Tauranga way to Napier/Hastings or coming from and going back to but passing this way?
I need to get a guitar from Tauranga to Hastings.
Please PM if you can help out.
Box of beers or something.
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Just wondering if anyone is travelling from Tauranga way to Napier/Hastings or coming from and going back to but passing this way?
I need to get a guitar from Tauranga to Hastings.
Please PM if you can help out.
Box of beers or something.
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Minor + minor + minor + minor = major
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Impressive someone has that much money to throw at a ground up rebuild of EVERY major component of the car. Don\'t like the manifold thing. Not sure itll work effectively but what ever.
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GC with a M1 bmw kit?
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Ring Southern Brakes and Driveline get a quote off them to supply what you want. You might be surprised.
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T-boned by a 20ton truck.
Luckily kids and wife ok but one minced up MPV. Waiting for assessor to tell me its written off. Truckies fault, they never tend to want to stop at give way signs in TGA.
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Yeah pics. Ive gota porta power.
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Territorys are quite safe wagons by the looks.
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You have to be careful with the stumble. Could be anything. Plug going bad, coil or AFM. Does the computer show any log of faults? Do you have access to a code reader?
Does it ALWAYS surge or miss at that particular rev range or when you slowly apply throttle?
Had a similar issue in my father in laws BH5 not so long ago. Replaced the coils and new plugs and issue solved apart from some cold idle issues which was sorted with new AFM. I noticed it logged an o2 sensor fault too so im replacing that this weekend.
Stumble or misses or surges that are minor are generally those 4 things. AFM, o2, coils or plugs. Does it fart around when its cold?
Your searching idle could be your TPS not set correctly also. Be the easiest and cheapest thing to check. Its free with a multimeter.
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Correct.
Ended up finding a guy in Tauranga that does new units inc the intake tube for $250 so father in law went with that. Its 99% back to where it was. Still a small stutter at about 90-100kph if apply throttle slowly.
He told me when he first plugged his diagnoses cable in it had faults for o2 and maf so we\'ve fixed one, ive advised him to change the o2 as well.
Hes already done coils and plugs so its had a birthday.
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I thought they were like $400 new?
Where do you get em for $126?
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For the life of me I cannot find the post regarding replacement air flow meters.
Does any one know of the person who was doing recond ones?
Car is a 99 Blitzen BH5 wagon TT.
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As above. so im probably over fueling with the yellows. I bought new plugs today but still no luck of getting it started. just more puffing out the exhaust. It sounds like there is air being released some where after a few cranks but im not entirely sure where. Is that normal? could it be that the injector seals are damaged and there is pressure leaking causing it not to start? either way im going to have to pull injectors out again to try the greys or check the seals. how can i tell whether or not the ecu is a genuine j2? If i pull it out, open it up and take a pic will you guys be able to tell? It should be though cause from what i gather, the earlier model ecu\'s dont fit the v5/6 loom.
If your cranking and cranking and no starty starty then it will blow back out the intake (or sound like it) what it is is the engines sucking and sucking and trying to prime but the excess air has no where to go so comes back out. Entirely normal. You might even get a back fire.
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I would say roll up and take it but if its a dealer car or transporter theyll have it under cover when not in use or away in a compound and with stolen plates itll have a shelf life. Prob 3 months or so then they scrap it or convert it.
Best chances are to track it and follow and wait till someone goes to the servo or take aways and then jack it (take it back without altercation) yourself and hide it.
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i recently swapped my evo 4 for a subaru wrx sti v7, tonight police showed up to my house taking the car away as think it is stolen, ive looked up on the net for recently stolen cars from waikato region as thats where i got it from and your car came up on the stolen list. as much as i wish it wasnt it, i believe it is it. police will contact me on monday to confirm if its stolen. It has big wing, doesnt have gold wheels anymore but does have adjustables. cheers
So you think the car you swapped for is maleeks one?
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Goto a jeweler and get some glass polish. works a treat. Also good for water spots on your windows.
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You have, by law, 3 months of warranty if he is a registered car dealer. I would take it back to him to repair. Then use the time that engine provides you to save for a hella mod.
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B4_685']
[quote name='B4_685 said:
Bought new SAMCO radiator hose kit (EJ207 kit) from USA (read- hong kong lol) via ebay (ttfitting). Hoping it gets here soon!
B4_685 via Tapatalk HD
/quote]
Are they actually Samco? Always find it amusing when someone list an item, clearly branded item, but wouldn\'t mention a brand name in their listing (tells me fake straight away), especially if they\'re a manufacturer ???
Had a squiz at the car yesterday and noticed it was fitted with a plastic-topped aluminium core rad - is this standard for B4\'s?
Hose on bottom seems to be after market....
B4_685 via Tapatalk HD
Yes, factory rad has a plastic top tank with ali core.
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Sloppy / Floppy shifters - DIY Guide inc'd
in Gearbox and Drivetrain
Posted
@Induced - going back years now from memory but it made a significant difference, in saying that it was very sloppy to start with. Tighter to shift and zero movement. I think it was the cost was cheaper for AM vs a genuine part. And the fact I had some cash and was mucking around.