nickmcgill
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Posts posted by nickmcgill
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8 hours ago, sobanoodle said:
On a side note - did you get your gearbox issues sorted?
Its a work in progress
I've learnt a lot about them over the past couple of months about what they do and don't like.It looks like the fluid that was put in might be the problem, but can't confirm this until we swap it out.
Will be getting a flush done in the next month or so with the OEM ATF or the NZ available equivalent.
I'm hoping its not a valve body problem, although seems very coincidental to have the issues as soon as the fluid is changed. Watch this space.
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I also assumed it might be part of the warm up process and run off the other sensors available plus learnt values in the mean time.
Some said they should be reading in less than a minute, might depend on the make/model.
3 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:Yep. Measured the time taken a while back, can't remember exactly, somewhere north of 5mins usually.
Been looking at some logs of another member on here recently regarding unrelated missfires and they had it taking 9+mins.
Seems extremely weird, had thought a new one might fix it but you've nicely spent the money and saved the rest of us from trying that option
The ECU must have a hard time determining fuel trims without it running. Especially when the engine is up to temp well before it starts reading. Doesn't make sense to me..
My tuner mentioned to me that he thought the fuel trims were a bit weird after doing the tuning, I suspect this is why.
I was hoping a new sensor would fix it too, hopefully its not needing a new ECU too
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Hi Team,
I've been troubleshooting an issue for awhile with my O2 AFM.
Symptoms is delayed reading of the O2 sensor after startup.
Brand new 4 wire O2 sensor has been installed after the last one appeared intermittent.
After starting the car it will read at 14.7 for between 8-10mins on average then seems to work as expected.
First we thought that it might be an issue with the heater.
Jason (gotasuby) and I did some tests and found the ECU wasn't providing an earth for the heater.
After shorting the heater circuit to ground to force it to heat we found the ECU still didn't take a reading from the sensor.
We were alternating the heater circuit on and off but didn't want to do it for a long period of time to avoid any damage.
Can any other 07~ owners let me know if they have noticed similar behaviour on theirs ?
Mine will do this regardless if its a cold start or a hot start. -
Hi Team,
I've come hoping that some people might have some experience or be able to shed an issue on a problem I've been having for months.
Back in December I picked up a 2007 Legacy which has been tuned by STi
It's a amazing car and I love it to bits but the transmission is driving me up the wall.
A few months back we did a transmission flush and had to remove the battery to get to the trans filter.
Unbeknown to us this caused the transmission to loose its learned parameters, making it drive like a dog.
I've been into Armstrong's twice and they've done two "relearn" procedures which apparently trains the trans for torque converter lockup, AWD clutch loading, shift points etc.
They attempted to do a PAK file upgrade both times but the TMU failed to accept it.
The first time they did this it improved slightly but not enough to make a big difference.
The car has since been tuned by Throttle Happy in Australia who a few of you will likely know of, since then the car has been better but not right still.
The main issue I'm having is the torque converter unlocking constantly at about 30% throttle making drivability unpleasant at best.
Prior to the battery getting pulled I could get around 80% throttle down without it unlocking, so I know it is possible I'm just not sure how.
I've spent hours trying to do some research on the re-learn process which I have found some documents on but they are apparently for the pre-facelift non SiDrive models.
If anyone has any information on this i'd love to hear it!
Cheers
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I've got a manual Subtech downpipe that I'm wanting to sell.
I purchased it for my 5EAT 2007 Legacy but being the manual pipe it hits the side of the tranny and isn't economical to modify it.
If you're interested in it flick me a PM.
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I just drive around constantly in second gear at around 5k rpm thus no VOD to ever deal with.. All trolling aside I did find something interesting with the hose 10 mod.
I was running it in mine for awhile and it was good apart from the over boosting.
The primary would run 14psi and 19-20 when running on both.
After some trial and error I actually found in the factory hose there is a 0.8mm (ish) pill on the small 90deg hose from the T to the BOV.
This is what is making all of the trouble / notable difference when doing the hose 10 mod.
I removed this hose and put the configuration back to stock with the T but no pill.
PROFIT! Still worked just as well lots of low end torque but no over boosting ever.
If anyone has their factory hoses left from this please do check to see if yours also has a pill in it as I suspect replacing this section is all that is required.
@Marky @Ross
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Can also recommend both Stubaru and Richard.
Stu is pricey but does a good job.
Richard is also superb highly recommended if you can be bothered driving out that way.
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Hey Ash, mine does the exact same thing and has for about a year I've just been too lazy to fix it.
I've pulled my dash out a couple of times and sprayed contact cleaner on the plugs which helped for awhile but it came back after a few weeks.
Normally giving mine a "love tap" will fix it but sometimes I have to wait for it to come right on its own.
I've been told these guys are able to recondition / service the clusters to fix a fuel gauge issue that happens on these too. http://www.eparrott.co.nz
I haven't taken mine in to them yet as its an obvious pain not being able to use the car while its being done but if I manage to fix it I'll let you know.
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Got it fixed, will do a write up on it after new years.
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I'm pretty sure I don't have any leaks, I've replaced most of the hoses and they all have cable ties or clamps on the ends of them.
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Hello my fellow TT owners.
I'm curious to get some input on this one mainly from Marky and Ross regarding an over boost issue I've got as a result of the host 10 mod.
For awhile now I've had issues running the twins because 8/10 times the boost will go up to 19/20psi and then the ECU will hit boost cut, everything is downhill from that point on
After replacing and checking all the hoses and the primary boost controller I've reverted back to the standard set-up from the hose 10 mod.
I've done a few runs to confirm this fixes the issue which it seems to, nothing over 16psi on 4 consecutive runs.
The downsides of going back to stock far out way the gains of the mod unfortunately.
When reverting back I lost 4psi on the primary, lost all low down torque and acceleration, twin change over went from 4k rpm to 5,5-6k and just generally sluggish to drive.
The car doesn't feel like its running any boost at all until its over 5psi~
It would seem that the extra 4 or so PSI on the primary is what's causing the issue with the over boosting.
I'm trying to think of a way to keep this around 10~ psi and still maintain the mod.
As many of you will know the two T sections near the intake of the primary has one which vents onto the intake.
I was contemplating removing this and putting a bend in so the BOV is still connected to hose 10, but also will be giving a reading to the controller in both the bbod and the battery side.
Dave also suggested running waste gate pressure which might also be worth looking into.
He also offered to pay for my single conversion as he is such an advocate of telling people to do it, cheers Dave!
Interested to know peoples thoughts.
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Just inquiring if any of the locals have recommendation for panel/paint work to be done - ideally cash jobs.
Finally getting around to getting the vandalism damage fixed hopefully if the price is right.
I've heard Logan's name passed around lots but I don't think I've met him yet, potentially several years ago.
PS also looking for a silver BE/BH bonnet if anyone spots one at a good price in good cond.
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I'm guessing everyone here has a MT box ?
I've got a AT and with the 0.8mm its almost worse.
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Record the sound with a phone then upload the video to youtube.
Mine makes many noises when I turn on the ignition, various solenoids and the fuel pump priming mainly.
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Looks like you've had some great results on your stuff.
I'm looking at just getting the shroud on the top of the intercooler done which is removable.
The intercooler itself is otherwise in pretty good condition paint wise.
I wouldn't expect it to cost too much but though I would ask around all the same.
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Evening team,
I'm after some recommendations on getting some powder coating done in Christchurch.
Its just a part of the top of an intercooler so hopefully not too pricey.
Have people done other parts of the engine bay with powder coating without cracking / splitting from heat etc ?
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Thats a very interesting read on that thread, I'll have a chat with Rich if I see him this weekend.
My speedo isn't working as it is now so I probably wouldn't notice the difference, a manual ABS pump will be easy to source.
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Alright just to make sure I'm doing this right, I remove the pill from the hose / T piece that it comes in then insert this into hose #1 ?
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Ordered mine in from Japandland today at Army's
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Selling it isn't an option at the moment unless someone is offering between 7-10k which is not going to happen.
It's already got a rebuilt, forged EJ208 in it so shouldn't have any of the issues mentioned in the thread that Dave posted.
I also know the current ECU supports a manual box as it came out of a manual one, plus I can see the info for it when reading the codes.
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Any recommendations as to where to locate a 0.8mm, apologies if its inside this thread.
I got to page 4 and my mind was cooked.
I went to Armstrongs today to get one but they said its a import on request from Japan item.
-I read backwards and found people ordered them in, derp.
I'll do this tomorrow
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Will be interested to see how this goes.
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To my understanding it requires a loom change, but I'm hoping someone can elaborate as to why.
I would have thought it would have been easier to do some custom electrical and make the required stuff up and splice in.
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Fitting cruise control
in Electrical
Posted · Edited by nickmcgill
Got all my bits, installed the buttons. Bought a 4 wire sensor after reading it needs one. Looks like the 07 isn't fitted with one on the loom. Damn.