EJ20T
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Posts posted by EJ20T
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Check every fuse propery, most times you will pop the fuse for the power feed from the alternator
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Yeah need some figures, and open loop mixture shouldn't have a massive effect on fuel consumption depending on your driving style
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were you on the old forums tho?
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yeah, and don't buy them from repco, they are ****en rip off
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I have actually been around since 2004, I got a paid membership back then but it wasn't really worth it out in whakatane
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go with the hankook ventventus2 if they are the same price, Achilles are rubbish,ive fitted landsails and delintes at work, both Chinese with soft rubber, chewing gum sidewalls
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you need to remove the banjo filters at the supply, you need to remove the sump and clean it because it will be full of bronze from the internals of the turbo
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Dude I bought a tomei item off them......never again it took like 5 months not impressed
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I wouldn't recommend using it depending on how rusty it is. The fuel filter is actually not very good at stopping fine slit type rust. Blocked the injectors on my evo
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2001 GGA wrx
1998 Evolution V
1994 hilux surf
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Dont think about legnums, they are sacks! I would know I worked on them for years
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They will do just fine, 'power' isnt so much the important figure, torque is more the major figure because its directly connected to cylinder pressure
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For sti dual avcs only came in on the v11, regardless of being 2 or 2.5ltr.
Buy a ver9!
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I have a similar issue with ecuflash trying to read out ver7 impreza ecus
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What are you aiming for, most applications the regular ones are more than enough
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Find someone with a wb and a op.2.0 I tune my own evo, should touch the 270-300 kw atw range
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Are GRB hubs compatible for the swap or are they different to v9 v10?
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Once you get it going again id look closely at your tune, many times the ecu will not record any counts but theres real knock going on in a low level. sometimes it pays to drop down the background noise value for safety or install some det headphones while testing your tune too see just how good the factory sensor is, is the factory sensor your only used means of detection?
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Ive seen years ago a NZ GRB that had done around 50k that started burning oil like it was fuel, it had been poorly maintained and has carbon build up in the ring grooves leading to poor oil control. this is a major problem seen in late model Japanese imports with poor service history, once the carbon is there its impossible to remove without pulling the engine down, I carried out this job on a 2006 audi a6 late last year, less than 100k on the clock but the engine was a black carbon pit.
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Actually measuring the stretch is impossible on the case BOLTS because you cant get at the other end when tightening to make a measurement and they are BOLTS!. head studs etc are possible. angle torque is the most accurate method when stretch cant be measured.
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Yeah v12 does offer more performance, ive fitted s1´s to customers cars with good results. Ill be putting them on my missus v7 soon.
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The guides are worn? That can be a cause of valve burning, the reason I went for manganese bronze guides.
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With how little running its done I would agree with rosssub, the valve hasn't been uniformly on the seat causing combustion gas to flow at high temp and speed past it. This is unlikely a extreme egt failure. Normal valve burning doesn't result in piston damage
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Also one thing to remember is that us whp figures are almost all over inflated, as are the uk bhp figures. Once one tuning outfit tweaks the numbers all the others have to follow or be left behind on the forums. I see guys running 35psi on evo 9 td05s, in the real world the thrust load will quickly kill that turbo, but they dontbrag about it, so you get the impression its normal
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ClubSUB's 20th Celebrations and Mega Meet 2017!!
in Club Events
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Hey is this open to other brands? No longer got a Subaru but keen to bring my mitsi along