calibre
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Posts posted by calibre
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Cheers: The screen is powered by a 1din unit under the driver's seat (which is still there): will investigate to confirm, but last time i pulled it out from under the seat, the camera input was just an RCA on the back.
Oh Ok, easy then. mine didn't have that box and the screen has never worked since I got it, that might be why :
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In the mean time, i'll also be hooking up a reversing camera to the existing screen in the dashboard.
I had the same screen unit, I'd be careful before buying a camera as I did thinking there was an AV line into the back of the screen, because there isn't and you would have to have someone splice into the loom to work out how to adapt the input to suit.
2c
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so would an amp from 2006/07 be old? or do you mean 'classic' old like 20 years or something.
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any of you guys had any experience with Eclipse gear? mainly the amps, are they any good?
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Has anyone played with an imprint module? I am only interested in SQ, and I'm thinking about getting an PXA H100 and KTX h100 units (with mic setup via PC) for my Alpine X305s Ipod H/U, anyone know whether the difference is worth the outlay?
The rest of the system in the wagon is fairly modest, with DD CS 6.5 components up front, Kenwood KAC 848 amp powering a 12" sealed boxed Kenwood sub in tyre well, standard rear fill speakers running of H/U.
The only thing that annoys me about the X305s is no real EQ adjustment for mids etc, needs the imprint for that. :-\
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As is the same in home audio, it also depends on the quality of other components in the system speakers, H/U etc, as to whether you will notice much difference, but as said above they definately have different sound signature depending on quality of internal components, capacitors, power caps etc.
Although in saying that the ideal is to have an amp that does not 'colour' the sound in any way (warm it up or make it brighter/harsher) and to give a flat response.
2c
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I'll have a look at the car this weekend hopefully. Apparently been serviced every 10K kms.
If a car has mostly highway miles compared to city driven miles why is this better?
Highway driving is better on engines than city driving. On the highway you are going at a steady speed, oil pressure is higher so internal engine parts are better protected and engine temperature is stable. Transmissions last longer since they don't shift as often. Transmissions only wear when they shift.
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yeah point taken, but it is still a lottery. A well maintained 130kms car will always be a better option than a thrashed/neglected 60k car. My point was, (though no figures have been mentioned) if its a matter of a grand or two difference, which is often the case, for a nice low km example then i know where my money would go, for resale if nothing else.
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I recently installed an Alpine X305s and it is awesome, as long as you don't need cd playback, it's ipod integration is second to none. Has imprint and Bluetooth as options also. Get them for really good price on Trademe at the mo.
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I'd probably save for a bit longer and get a lower km's one mate, unless its too good to pass up. I wouldn't look at one myself with 130km unless I couldn't afford anything newer and then it would have to have a really clean service record. There is plenty around with under 100k for reasonable money.
2c
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sweet as, that sounds OK then. Yeah, battery was the only other concern not yet mentioned, I may leave it on a trickle charger to be safe. No worries with tyre pressure so should be fine. Cheers for all the advice guys, much appreciated.
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yeah, the auto will always give up around 15-20kw's to the manual, accounting for torque converter power loss etc, and slight detune due to less strength.
To answer the question, I wouldn't think anyone would notice the difference on the road once up and moving, if your after a 'launch' for some reason, then manual all the way. But the auto is very nice for town driving, as said its just preference.
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do you think the tyres would really loose all pressure in under 3 months?
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but is it true that it can increase the risk of moisture forming in the tank? or is this just a problem on older cars?
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Hey guys,
I'm heading overseas for about three months, and will have the car garaged up for the whole time. Just wondering if anyone has done this and learn't any valuable lessons? i.e anything to not do etc, apart from leaving the P brake on. like oil for example should I put fresh in as it will be due soon anyway, or change before driving again? and fuel, leave full or?
any help apreciated. chur.
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Also try lowering the gain settings on the amp, I had similar problem in my wagon, went away after dialing the gains back, as this is like a sensitivity setting for the amp, also can become more sensitive to unwanted noise. Worth a try before anything drastic anyway.
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please drop me a PM if you plan on selling the 18"s I want them on my wagon.
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when looking these myself a few months ago, I test drove both and although they perform very similar the B spec is VERY firm riding for everyday use, may have something to do with the 18" rims and therefore different suspension tuning? where as the GT felt perfect and was far more forgiving on less than perfect roads. I would have bought the GT over the B spec in a heartbeat but thats just my preference, but have to admit the GTB looks way better with the very nice kit and classy 10 spoke rims, I'd say if you can live with the harsher ride then B spec is the one to get of the two.
I ended up not going with either and got a 3.0r in the end, and love it.
2c
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Have you considered one of these? I have just installed one in my BP, quality is great, far easier to install, and a fraction of the cost of the double din panel pack.
http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=115
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OK cool, point taken. Cheers for the advice tho. While we are on the topic of BP's, is it just mine or does only one reverse light supposed to work? and why are the lights on each side different ie one side has LEDs? can anyone clear this up?
/quote]
good question - and its been covered before.
For clarification - the NZ new ones both the reverse lights work - and look the same - like my BPE
on JDM ones, one is a reverse light and the other LED one is a fog light
so only one works in reverse like your BPwicked cheers for that mate.
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OK cool, point taken. Cheers for the advice tho. While we are on the topic of BP's, is it just mine or is only one reverse light supposed to work? and why are the lights on each side different ie one side has LEDs? can anyone clear this up?
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Top Gear S17
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Amen to that, the latest Top Gear (UK) mag has a test with new 1M against the RS3, the Audi cracks a 3.8sec 0-60 with launch control!
they still say the 1m is more fun though.