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Bazza-NZ

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Posts posted by Bazza-NZ

  1.  lachlan said:
    I believe the arrow is flow of air . So both point down .arrow points into the intake tract away from the turbos /intercooler. If you put secondary one upside down it still works but majes a funny fart /groan noise lol

    You cant really tell much from looking at them . But you will be able to suck on it and see if it opens and stays open . Youll hear it click /clunk as it moves

    My 94 auto has holed both bovs . The 95 manual im workin on atm also had a hole in the secondary even tho it drove fine

    Tested both of the BOV today and the primary turbo side has a hole in it. Didn't make a sound or hold pressure so I'll replace it this week and see if that makes a difference

    Secondary BOV made clicking noises and held pressure. Appears to operate as expected.

  2. Thanks for the quick replies and information. I've tried them using the vac hose and they seem to hold find but I'll remove them to physically inspect them and check there direction

    Just, out of curiosity, what direction should the arrow point?

  3.  lachlan said:
    One or both of the blow off valves have a hole in the diaphram. Suck on the vac line to them and see if they hold vac . If you can breath through it they are fkd

    Have you got a boost gauge on it ?

    I'll check out the BOV tomorrow, didn't think of them. If it's the case are any twin turbo BOV compatible or will I need to check for specific part numbers?

    I had one in it briefly but removed it again. Tee off the IC BOV pipe and showed 9/10 psi on primary turbo.

  4. Hi all,

    I have been trying to sort out my twin turbo which has boost issues. It doesn't boost at all on the secondary turbo and enters into limp mode (Code 66). What happens is as soon as it revs to 5k it hard cuts and throws a code. Gets full boost on the primary then start the change over then it feels like it dies off.

    So far..

    I've changed over the BBOD with another unit

    Cleaned AFM with MAF cleaner

    Check all vac lines are connected correctly

    Removed turbos to check them for any damage

    New spark plugs

    Running out of ideas, thoughts?

  5.  Rosssub said:
    Yes you can just block off the secondary WG actuator hose and run without one. Also correct on the ECV and primary WG controlling boost.

    As Lachlan said it only ever opened with an over boost, so pretty much does nothing. Doesn't even run a duty cycle AFAIK, just connected to manifold pressure with an on/off solenoid.

    Perfect, Thanks for all your help, we'll be pulling out the motor next weekend to tidy up the car so i'll make sure everything is in working order before doing the turbo swap.

    Also what vacuum line would you tee a boost gauge into on these?

  6.  lachlan said:
    the secondary wastegate wasnt actually used unless there was a massive overboost

    Interesting so I could potentially just block off the vac line and use the other turbo without any issues?

    Does it mean the boost is effectively held using the ECV and primary wastegate...

  7.  Rosssub said:
    So yours is a rev A (bg5A) with VF13/VF14? Sounds like you may have brought a VF18/VF19 from a rev C, where the secondary wastegate is no more. Should be numbers stamped on the front of the turbos.

    The car is definitely BG5A and I'm assuming turbo are still stock on it. Ill have a look at the new turbo for a code but I have a feeling you're right.

    Can I just stick the rear exhaust housing over or are they different sizes?

    NOTE (Just checked the turbos and they are a Vf20 & Vf21)

  8. Hi guys

    I'm fixing up a twin turbo at the movement and it currently doesn't boost on the seconardy turbo I.e 4,500 rpm plus. I've got great solid boost on primary and then nothing after that. Both turbos are a bit old so I've obtained some replacements (issue might not be turbo related??)

    The issue I have is the secondary turbo I've purchase doesn't have an internal wastegate like the original. Is there any work around here? Need to double check but I believe they are the same turbo which I find strange.

    Can I just block off the hose and run without it?

    Car is BG5A 1994

    Any help is appreciated

    Thanks

  9.  boon said:
    There's a place in Petone that does every o-ring under the sun, I think it's Seal Imports, off the top of my head.

    Thanks for that, i would have never through of using them. I'm assuming that i would then need to take my setup in to them as i don't have any seals to measure the OD & ID's.

    Might google that infor and see what comes up

  10. Hey all,

    I'm looking for a place to purchase a set of new injector’s seals for some pink top feed injectors. I brought them second hand and they didn't come with any seals.

    How many seals/o-rings should the injector have?

    I have been down to the Subaru dealership in Lower Hutt and they can only provide me with the top injector o-rings

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.

  11. Hi,

    My orginal power steering lines no longer fit due to some modification i have made around that area. Space has become limited around the intake manifold in which they would noramlly run. I then tryed to adjust them to fit and ended up damanging both lines.

    What options do i have in term of aftermarket / custom made. Has anyone done this before and have an advise / people to use.

    I\'ll be using a V1/2 power steering pump on the system and standard rack

    Thanks in advacne for any help.

  12.  Mutsuraboshi']

    [quote name='Jambun said:

    JustRust in tawa.

    /quote]

    I would second this place. They are awesome and quite reasonably priced too.

    I\'ve recently have them fix up a couple of spot on my WRX and they did a really good job. The two small jobs came to $220 and that included paint & finish. They also provided me with paperwork to show the WOF inspector.

  13.  petrolheadjman said:

    yup plugs all in the right way, AFM is right way around

    Are you getting any codes? (i'm assuming standard ECU (V7 etc)

    Also the fuel pressure regulator -->

    • Fuel lines around the right way?
    • Have set the pressure correctly?
    • Watching the fuel pressure after a startup?

  14. Thanks for all your help guys

    I have decided to relocate it to the drivers side strut tower for now as it is one of the only palces that i have availabe at the moment. In standard intercooler location is the oil cooler and passenage side is FPR & oil catch can. Just need to go out and purcahse some new hoses and it should be all done and dusted.

  15.  rex-leggy']

    this was when i first got my rs . located where the ac goes.

    after changing turbo (non watercooled) i removed the tank completely to make the system simpler

    Through about putting it there however i can't as the alt sit there now

    [quote name='We are borg said:

    make sure it is either the same height or higher is the only thing i can add :) as far up the firewall as it will go would be my pick

    Have been surfing the web and it seems like most people are relocating them there or to the side guards (custom made tanks)

  16.  evowrx said:

    Do the spacers you have need gaskets? What version engine? Can you bolt it onto the rear of the manifold passengers side?

    Nope as they are the o-ring ones however i am waiting for a set to arrive from the US (lost the previous ones). The gaskets don't actually add too much height. engine is just a standard V3 EJ20.

    Currently have my FPR setup there but will probably make a bracket and put both on it. Never hurts to ask and get everyone opinion on the matter

  17.  evowrx said:

    Got a pic? Must be tight in there clearance wise. What size spacers? Ive seen people make a cake slice shape adaptor to make the tb straight on to get around the bonnet issue.

    spaces are 10mm + 2 gaskets and its pretty tight, I tapped nicely with a hammer on the bonnet just for safety but closes without touching

    Issues with the Top Tank is it will get in the way of the intake so moving it seems easier

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