subiv5
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Posts posted by subiv5
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Top 10 Flybys. The guy in Number 3 has balls!!
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Pretty sure that is a members car from off here
Pappu's car maybe?
Edit: Maybe not, seem to remember it had more work done to it
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New Nike ad. Its pretty full on and at times hard to follow but is a very well made ad
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Ok cool.
First step is to test to see if any of the vacuum hoses are split or leaking.
Depending on the resolution of the Microtech, it may be hard to tune a decent idle (I had to set mine above a 1500rpm min with a Possumlink otherwise it would just hunt continuously and run way too rich).
Yeah not too fussed with how it idles just concerned about what the shaking may entail, Apparently the Mircotechs are pretty crude ecu's and really hard to get perfect. Garry spent 8 hours and a tank of gas trying to iron out the niggles and get it right.
To check if its running on three, get it warm then start it up with one lead un-plugged (Don't pull them off while its running unless you want a decent electric shock). If it gets worse while each of the leads is un-plugged then its more likely the tune.
Sorry will sound like a bit of an idiot when asking this but..... so you mean unplug lead #1. Start car up. If it runs like normal then this cylinder is the problem. If runs like shiit then plug it back in and try lead #2 so on and so forth?
Do you know how many cells the fuelling table has got in the Microtech? Plus how big is the MAP sensor and the injectors because as you go bigger on both those, the resolution drops and idle/low load is harder to tune.Not sure about any of that, car has standard injectors which are running near capacity. All I know is that he said it was a real bitch to tune (not helping that the ecu is hand controller programmable only haha) and is still running quite rich.
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My car shakes quite a bit when idling, only does it when the car is warmed up, eg after 20 mins of driving then stop at a traffic light.
No noticeable loss of power (Car made 200kws while being tuned by Garry Capper 3 Months ago)
idle is slightly high (car has microtech ecu so has always done this since it has been tuned) so I just presumed idle was set high.
Thought it may be an engine mount, but then after doing a bit of searching on here thinking It may be missing and running on 3 cylinders.
Question: Is there anything else it could be? To tell if it has dropped a cylinder do i get a compression test done?
Any help or ideas would be appreciated
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I took a photo of mine
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If your Subaru STI has done 170tho k's and you can't afford a rebuild then sell it and buy something you can afford
Haha but yeah its really hard to predict when these big end bearings will go but at higher k's it is certainly more likely.
The only way to really enjoy these car's is to drive them like they were designed to be driven and then keep some money aside if something goes wrong. Rather than pussying around in them concerned that they will blow up next time you put your foot down.
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Looks nice but is still just a WRX not an STI. The JDM part just means its a Japanese Domestic market model which normally are just the highest spec versions. I think that all 96-97 WRX's that came into the country from Japan would have these features.
What went into the rebuild? Was it done to an STI standard or just to the orginal WRX standard?
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Having a Pod filter/aftermarket intake and/or a full exhaust system can cause the boost to spike.
This could be the problem.
Not sure what boost cut is on the V3 turbos but wouldn't imagine it would be anymore than what you are hitting now.
If you have the above I would replace the intake with standard one and see if that makes a difference. I have also heard of people drilling the "pill" in the boost line slightly bigger and this helps keep the boost stable.
And yeah as above, the controller itself could be stuffed
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Save a little more and get something like this
If you can go for an STi as they are such a great base and have all the goddies factory
url=http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-284612845.htm]http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-284612845.htm[/url]
That thing is the sex. Well worth it.
Yeah I noticed the huge drop in prices, so I figured now would be prime buying time.
Ah that seems a little expensive to me. And the 180ks on the engine just seems like a ticking time bomb as rebuilds are pricy.
I bought my V4 STI RA with a full forged rebuild for 9k end of last year so keep an eye out and a mint well priced one should pop up
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Real reason Mark Tapper crashed out of Rally New Zealand
One of the video comments sums it up very well
"He should've been watching the road, not the arse."
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If this hasn't already happened I am keen on two 225/45 17's.
Have cash ready etc
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Just sounds like a flat/dead battery.
Top it up and put it on a slow charge overnight. Then see if this fixes the problem
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I have noticed the same thing with my WRX, having gone from a V7 with Brembo's to the GC8 four pots the difference is very noticeable.
Will try a fluid change and flush to see if it solves problem. Not complaining too much tho as don't want super bitie brakes as I don't have ABS
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Not sure If this question has been covered, or if this is the correct place to pose the question but here goes:
What is the story over inflated Torque figures on dyno graphs?
Some of the graphs show cars making 700+ nm of torque while others with the same power are making 350 - 450nm.
Now my question is that if gain/correction method or what ever they are called on the dyno are adjusted and the result of this are the high torque figures does this mean that the Power figures are also higher than they should be too?
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Get the V9 STI. Simple.
1. Its a NZ New car. So will no doubt have a full perfect service history since new will high quality oil's through Subaru.
The result of this is that it will go for years and reliability won't be an issue.
2. The Sti will hold its value much better than the WRX. You see it on trademe time and time again.
3. Go test drive both cars, preferably with in a day of each other. After driving both your decision should be clear.
4. As far as the Sti being harder to service, I think you used the word rare as the Sti. Well I am very sure that there would be more if not as many of the Sti's in the country as the WRX's. (Ahh just realised thats a V9 Sti so yeah maybe not, but there are tonnes of V8 Sti's.)
5. If you decide you don't want the Sti, I would think you may need to rethink why you are wanting a turbo subaru in the first place. There are plenty of other cars out there. Maybe some sort of Audi?
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For all you fellow motorx-er's
James Stewart in action!
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got a guard rolling tool/machine!
No more dodgy coke can techniques for me now! ;D
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would be interested to see the prices on the GC8 under body braces including side braces in that catalog?
Pm me if you don't want to post them up on the public forum.
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Did you upgrade the fluid?
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how much did it cost you to get them regreased?
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Looks cool in that photo there but upon looking at some photo's of it from the back I am not so sure.
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Installed a new quieter STI Genome exhaust. Sounds good on boost without the drone of the loud one on the motorway. Only problem now is I will have to upgrade the stereo so I have something to listen too.
Car comes onto boost faster and stronger now too ;D
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You got a new fuel pump?
Mine fuel pump was running fine off boost but when you got onto it the flow rate dropped drastically.
Was just the old original pump and was giving up, so got a new Walbro one, problem solved.
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Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 290 Guests (See full list)
What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Anyone know how much it would cost to get one rebuilt?
Mine has a bit of a bearing wine :'(