insanity007
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Posts posted by insanity007
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Take the big square cover off the top of the afm (craft knife or flat screwdriver to pry it open).
Then carefully remove anything you need to, to get to the main soldered connections from the plug to the pcb board.
Re-solder all of those connections.
Then re-assembly the whole lot, silicone the cover back on top and see if that sorts it. I\'ve never replaced an afm, just fine that and its sorted it for me every time. The afm\'s I\'ve had due on me have never been the hot wire element in the intake, always old solder connections.
Thanks dude... this helped heaps. I took it apart and found that there was some shorting on the board and tidied all that up and it appears to be behaving itself now :-)
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That\'s what happens with a newborn... no sleep and suddenly I\'m cleaning AFM\'s with brake fluid... ;D
I was going to use meths because that\'s what I use to clean PC bits when I\'m modding, but figured I\'d do some research first and every single vid or post I found was with someone using brake cleaner, so I gave it a shot and it came up really nice and clean. I also noticed a black mark on one of the plug prongs and the same corresponding hole, which I cleaned up too.
Nothing\'s changed in ages in this car. It just started being an asshole. I took the Jspeed tune out and swapped it with my other rexy\'s Link, eliminating the need for the AFM, and it ran just fine. When I put the Jspeed into my other rexy and the AFM with it, i replicated the same problem and that\'s how I figured it was the AFM. So I cleaned it and that still didn\'t work and that\'s why I\'m on here.
Now that I\'ve typed this out, I\'m pretty sure it\'ll be that electrical short that\'s gone further than the plug and time for a new AFM... damn my selling my spare a few years ago!
thoughts?
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I\'ve got a 1996 WRX V2 wagon and the car hesitates (especially when cold). It\'s not the normal spluttering hesitation, but an epic hesitation where I can no longer accelerate and I have to pull over and stop. The revs drop and the car stalls when I stop or take the car out of gear. I wait a little bit and the car starts fine and I can take off again. It does this a few times until it\'s warm and then it doesn\'t do it anymore.
I\'ve tried cleaning the air flow meter and plug with brake fluid because I thought that\'s what the issue is, but it\'s still doing it! Any ideas??
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As the title suggests... does anyone know?
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Thanks everyone... was the new chip afterall. Tried a Mines ECU out and it goes like a rocket
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I noticed this was plugged up on my mrs. car (we got it like that) and I wonder why it would be?
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Oh and it's gone into a v2 GF8 and it's a 16g TD05H
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I've just put in a td05h with a chip to run it up to 16psi. I was running a different chip up to 17psi no worries on my Td04 before.
Now I have hesitating issues with car around 12psi when it suddenly surges up to about 19psi and drops back to 16psi. I've had new coils fitted and the spark plugs gapped by Subaru & Misubishi Evo Performance Specailists in East Tamaki. They ran a fuel test on it and said there were no issues with leaning out and the guy there said it was running a little rich but nothing to be worried about. The sparks are also platinums and only 2 months old.
They also fitted my GFB BOV for me.
It's especially bad in 1st gear and gets less noticable through the gears.
The pod filter is new and isn't really obstructed by anything.
I've got a green sticker AFM.
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And what does it do?
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All I'm worried about is spool time. I'm fitting a TD05H and I know they can be laggy if measures aren't taken to counteract this.
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Ok great.
That's what I thought. If I can combine the new bigger up pipe with the stock headers then I should be able to get quicker spool shouldn't I?
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I've put some headers that I bought from Redline onto my 1996 v2 GF8 WRX and despite what the bloody bastards said, I've lost the rumble
What I want to know is, which part of the headers causes the rumble? Is it the flexy bend in the up pipe or the bent pipes bolted onto the engine?
I'm trying to find a way to keep the quicker spool while getting the rumble back.
Here's a pic of my engine after the heads were done before it was put back in:
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your fuel pump is now one 6th of a century old, and rated to deliver fuel for a 155kw at the flywheel motor. upgrade it to a walbro
and i've told you what injectors you have. 390cc grey tops
Any of this stuff may have previously been upgraded so it's a good idea to check before I start buying stuff... I know where the pump is and how to get to it. I'm not sure how to get to the injectors though... I suppose I can ask the guy who did the head gaskets on my engine. He should know.
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BTW how can I tell what type of injectors I have now by looking?
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Yeah I do have a lot of questions... Thanks for all the info so far guys!!
I've done the intake and exhaust as well as extractors.
If I haven't already said it, the guy who I got the chips off does have a yellow injector chip.
I'll get the Turbo and some yellow injectors. The intercooler can wait until I have the $$
Does anyone know what kind of fuel pump I'll have without me having to dig it out? Would I need something better with the yellows?
I wanna keep costs down as much as possible.
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hate-evoz']
[quote name='sultan said:
Grey 390cc vs yellow 440cc.
I wouldn't run grey passed 160kw but the td04 can happily exceed that. Yellow can support 200kw.
If you run that chipped ecu with yellows your next bottleneck is the top mount. Change to the td05 and this will help here actually, by running less boost more cfm to get power.
But in doing all of this, its only going to be as reliable as that guys chip. Could be good quick bang for buck though. Until it really does go bang
/quote]
So you reckon that I should upgrade injectors and pump with turbo?
Yeah you might aswell. to get the best out of it.
What kind of injectors and pump should I get to run 16Psi with my TD05?
Will I need anything else?
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Grey 390cc vs yellow 440cc.
I wouldn't run grey passed 160kw but the td04 can happily exceed that. Yellow can support 200kw.
If you run that chipped ecu with yellows your next bottleneck is the top mount. Change to the td05 and this will help here actually, by running less boost more cfm to get power.
But in doing all of this, its only going to be as reliable as that guys chip. Could be good quick bang for buck though. Until it really does go bang
So you reckon that I should upgrade injectors and pump with turbo?
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Does he have one for yellow injectors and td05? You will max inj before maxing the td04. I personally wouldn't trust my engine to a guy swapping chips on a circuit board. But that's just me perhaps, id rather spend money than blow up engines
Yeah he does. How much better at the yellow injectors then what I've got ATM?
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I've chipped the ECU anyway and it feels like the difference between night and day. The guy I got it from is willing to swap the chip if I upgrade the turbo as he has maps for TD05s.
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The list you have up there says peak efficiency is at 14,7 pounds thus you are well..... Just blowing hot air at anything more than just 1 bar
I did some more looking and found this:
Looks like its about 525CFM at around 16-18psi
Even if I'm just "blowing hot air in" would I still not have more air in the engine to mix with the fuel at a higher pressure?
make an offer
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Help: Looking for guide to install LH and RH outer guards on GC8 WRX
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Does anyone know where I can find a guide on how to replace the LH and RH outer guards on my 1996 v2 WRX (take the old guards off and put the new ones on)? The ones I\'ve got on there at the moment are quite rough and I\'ve managed to score some replacements.