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About Me

Drives :




Found 5 results

  1. Hey Guys,I have been working on a file for our Legacy GTB which doesn't have the overrun tables defined, So this is for you guys who also don't have those tables, as most other threads talk about adjusting the overrun tables.So i first had a play around with the "Base Timing B" tables but didn't manage to get much of an effect even at -12 at 0.15 load cells between 1800rpm and 6000rpm (Leave 1800rpm under as normal for smooth idling). I ran a log on my way to work to find out that the car on decel and shifting doesn't hit 0.15 load that often, So what i have done is adjusted "Base Timing B and A" tables between 1800 rpm and 6000rpm at 0.15-0.20 Loads. I have Adjusted the "Base Timing Above Threashold" table between 1400-2000rpm to -12 degrees which is similar to the "Base Timing (In Gear)" Tables on other models I then added a bit of fuel on "Primary Fueling Open Loop" tables between 1800-3000rpm at about 9:1 AFR at low loads 0.15. This gives it a bit more of a Deep pop rather than a crack. This setup has worked very well for our legacy, gives it some big deep pops on upshift and downshift every now and then, and when decelerating and slightly touching the gas pedal you will get a Burble and some big Pops. I tested it at higher RPMs as well and got some nice big cracks. Give it a go and post up some videos if you can! Hope this helps. Cheers, Harry
  2. Hey Guys, I have been having a mess around with our Legacy GTB trying to get a few pops and crackles on decel. I'll start with the car. We have a 2003 Legacy GTB with an EJ20Y, so it has the bigger TD04 Turbo, car has a gutted cat in the downpipe but the secondary cat is till in tact but i think its on its way out, the whole bottom of the cat is covered in white stuff and you can get a bit of an eggy smell sometimes, so that could be an issue. I have been playing around with the "Base Timing B" maps as this is the map most people adjust to get pops and crackles. I have adjusted between 2000rpm and 5000rpm to -12 degrees but the car still won't pop and crackle, is this because of the secondary cat or another reason? I would have thought even with the secondary cat you would still be able to hear it try to pop. The WRX's and STI's seem to have an Overrun table which our legacy doesn't have, also tables called "base timing b (in gear)" A few questions come to mind. 1. When does the car actually use "Base timing b" and "Base timing a", 2. Do i need to add fuel at the points where the timing is retarded. 3. Does the Legacy cut fuel on decel? 4. Why wont you pop If anyone has any info at all that would be great, Cheers
  3. Hi team, Well, I finally picked myself up a super tidy V3 STi after driving a people mover for the best part of four years. It has an exhaust and intake but other than that she's fairly stock, and straight. I'm after recommendations from you guys and girls regarding (the next) performance upgrades I should be looking into and recommendations on who should do the work. One name I have seen around here a little bit is Possum Bourne Motorsport. I would be keen to hear of your experiences, good and bad, at tuning shops around Auckland and your best 'bang for buck' performance upgrades that you would recommend for my stock-ish WRX STi. Thanks in advance. Brett
  4. Hey Guys I have basically finished my ez30 turbo project and I am looking for someone to remote tune it. Has anyone had any experience with remote tuning?
  5. Finally got a v7 dash and a Link G4+ in my v3 wrx and was ready for the dyno. Keith Stewart is doing the tuning so bolted it up and the back hubs spun faster than the front . He made a good call that there were incorrect ratios going on. Must be when the previous owners swapped to the 4.44 ratio V4 STi box in my parts car, they left the original 4.1 ratio diff in there Put a proper 4.44 rear diff in and Keith got it tuned to 180awkw He was still having trouble getting it to hold rpm on the dyno, the controller kept getting confused as one minute power was 50/50 and then the next the car starts surging and the front hubs are spinning faster than the rear. We only managed to get a couple proper power runs after 4.5+ hours. My question is, has anyone experienced this before? Given ive done a couple track days with the car like this plus the previous owners kms aswell, maybe the centre diff fluid is so stuffed now it cant even keep them going the same speed.
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