DuCKy!

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About DuCKy!

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  • Drives :
    Subaru
  1. Hmm, so I'm tossing up between $75 for OEM FCA rear bushings from Partsouq (delivered - is it cheaper locally?), or about $180 for the Whiteline KCA334 kit. Pretty piss poor at the moment, wondering if that extra $100 is worth it??
  2. Hey all, need to replace the rear bushing on the front A arm on my BP5 Legacy. Thinking of going aftermarket just to make it more compliant. Where's the best place to get whiteline/nolathane hookups etc.?
  3. I've taken both solenoids out and have tested them with the battery test. Both seem to function fine. Have cleaned them and popped them back in. gotasuby - what's with the alignment requirement as in this video here?
  4. I see... What would be the best thing to do? Take them apart and clean or just get a second hand one out of a working engine? Looks to be about $200 for the pair.
  5. Hey guys Had the engine out and was doing a few things on my 06 Legacy GT (EJ20Y). Removed the Cam gears etc, and also checked the banjo bolts for the filter screen (no screens). When I put everything back in (timing triple checked), the car splutters at low revs. Looked through the btssm log and VVT Intake L was stuck on 0-4, VVT Intake R was stuck on 35-37. Misfiring cylinder 1 (14) and cylinder 3 (1). Exhausts were ok, going up and down (and in sync, kinda, about 4 degs off max of each other). Could it be that I managed to get some grit in the AVCS cam gear unit and therefore bound the mechanism up? Injectors have been cleaned and cross flow tested. New spark plugs. Cheers
  6. Hiya, thanks for the reply. Are these measured at 499, 501 and 502? I can make do with all 3 of those as I've found a couple more out of spec, and those will push some of mine closer towards 0.010" clearance. Will still have to purchase a couple from partsouq. Let me know? Do you have a contact number? Cheers
  7. Yes please can you check ASAP, otherwise I'll order some from partsouq?
  8. I see, I don't even know where to search for the manual... So many variants and being JDM it's pretty rare? I'm gonna keep my intakes as they are, and will keep my 0.011" exhausts the same. That leaves the 2 x 0.013 and 0.014 as you've mentioned. Looks like I'll need 2 x 5.00mm, and 1 x 5.03mm bucket. Measured with micrometer! Do you have any that'll suit? Cheers
  9. Hi Loren I've always thought that the exhaust is 0.010"? Are these engines different to the usual then, at 0.014"? Gee this is super confusing! If that's correct, then 5 of my 0.011" are out, whereas the 0.014" and 0.013" is fine since the range is 0.0118" and 0.0158"? (0.0138±0.002) Yes I will need some spares thanks, will need to figure out which ones need adjustment..
  10. Hi guys, just doing my valve clearances on my BP5 Legacy GT (facelift). I've read that the valve clearances are: Intake - 0.20mm / 0.008" Exhaust - 0.25mm / 0.010" However, what are the tolerances? At the moment I've got 4 of my intake ones at 0.007", the other 4 are at 0.008". 5 of my exhaust are at 0.011", the other 3 are way out (0.014" and 0.013"). This is after a rebuild btw, and that's the best I can do with my existing stock shimless buckets. Just wanted to see how many I need to order. Cheers all. Also, does anyone have buckets I can buy? Otherwise I gotta order from Partsouq?
  11. I'm quite sure if I ask any engine machine shop they'll tell me to just drop it off to them, because they obviously want to do it. I might do a light lap or blue it to see if there are any recessed surfaces. Doesn't make sense to get all 16 valves redone right? Only the ones that are bent (10 of them). Where/who did you get it from? I'd happily pay $440 for a set of heads and valve train so I don't have to tinker with mine.
  12. Idlers all spinning ok. I'm assuming it's the tensioner that's failed. The pin has a bit of play before it starts resisting force. I'm assuming the moment you put new valves in, you'll need new valve seats cut? Everyone on the net seems to think so otherwise? Yes will be purchasing new OEM valves. All pistons have the carbon chipped off where the valves have touched. One piston in particular had the valves sticking out pretty far, so there's just a touch of deformation at the edge of the piston valve recess. I'll clean up the carbon on the piston crowns then snap a pic? Would the bent valve's valve guides need replacement as well? Yeap, super sad I really don't know where I can get just the heads? It has to be EJ20Y specific too right. Most places will only sell the whole engine..? Changing new valves over etc. isn't too costly - just depends if i have to change the valve guides and if i need to get the valve seats cut - which according to boon - I won't need to? The head surface looks plenty clean - don't think I even need to do a skim.
  13. Hi all Engine's out on my wagon. Cambelt snapped at 50km/hr. Car's done 155k, cambelt done 77k - Japanese sticker in engine bay. No idea why 10 bent valves. A few things - Should I just replace all 16 valves? Would the valve guides generally be stuffed as well. New valves means that I'll need to cut new valve seats - do I have to do a light lapping between the new valves and freshly cut seats? Apart from valve seat cutting and light head skim - I can do everything myself. Just the cost of the parts suck. I've looked up the timing belt + associated bits. Bloody hell genuine (from partsouq) is expensive!!! Should I just get OE from Partmaster instead? My turbo inlet hosing has melted where the clamp is, probably explains my random boost surges as I'm sucking in unmetered air. - What should I do? Get an aftermarket one? Does anyone know which one will fit the Legacy GT? I love my subbie so much, so sad for this to happen. Oh well, after all this the engine will be near new with all new gaskets and o-rings etc. Any suggestions and sympathy will be great thanks Cheers Nicholas
  14. Heyo guys Anyone got an engine stand I can borrow for a month or two for a box of beers or something? Don't have space to keep one permanently. Or if you really want to sell yours, I may just buy it anyways? Cheers
  15. Champion. Does this look like a dead OCV, therefore I should pre-purchase a new OCV first considering the effort to get to it? Or just clean the filters in banjo bolts, take OCV out, clean with brakeleen or something and test it out again? Also, since the Exhaust VVT Left is super lazy compared to the Right, I don't actually know how well the VVT Right is doing. Should it be advancing up and down that much more than the Intake VVTs?