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About DuCKy!

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  1. Hiya, thanks for the reply. Are these measured at 499, 501 and 502? I can make do with all 3 of those as I've found a couple more out of spec, and those will push some of mine closer towards 0.010" clearance. Will still have to purchase a couple from partsouq. Let me know? Do you have a contact number? Cheers
  2. Yes please can you check ASAP, otherwise I'll order some from partsouq?
  3. I see, I don't even know where to search for the manual... So many variants and being JDM it's pretty rare? I'm gonna keep my intakes as they are, and will keep my 0.011" exhausts the same. That leaves the 2 x 0.013 and 0.014 as you've mentioned. Looks like I'll need 2 x 5.00mm, and 1 x 5.03mm bucket. Measured with micrometer! Do you have any that'll suit? Cheers
  4. Hi Loren I've always thought that the exhaust is 0.010"? Are these engines different to the usual then, at 0.014"? Gee this is super confusing! If that's correct, then 5 of my 0.011" are out, whereas the 0.014" and 0.013" is fine since the range is 0.0118" and 0.0158"? (0.0138±0.002) Yes I will need some spares thanks, will need to figure out which ones need adjustment..
  5. Hi guys, just doing my valve clearances on my BP5 Legacy GT (facelift). I've read that the valve clearances are: Intake - 0.20mm / 0.008" Exhaust - 0.25mm / 0.010" However, what are the tolerances? At the moment I've got 4 of my intake ones at 0.007", the other 4 are at 0.008". 5 of my exhaust are at 0.011", the other 3 are way out (0.014" and 0.013"). This is after a rebuild btw, and that's the best I can do with my existing stock shimless buckets. Just wanted to see how many I need to order. Cheers all. Also, does anyone have buckets I can buy? Otherwise I gotta order from Partsouq?
  6. I'm quite sure if I ask any engine machine shop they'll tell me to just drop it off to them, because they obviously want to do it. I might do a light lap or blue it to see if there are any recessed surfaces. Doesn't make sense to get all 16 valves redone right? Only the ones that are bent (10 of them). Where/who did you get it from? I'd happily pay $440 for a set of heads and valve train so I don't have to tinker with mine.
  7. Idlers all spinning ok. I'm assuming it's the tensioner that's failed. The pin has a bit of play before it starts resisting force. I'm assuming the moment you put new valves in, you'll need new valve seats cut? Everyone on the net seems to think so otherwise? Yes will be purchasing new OEM valves. All pistons have the carbon chipped off where the valves have touched. One piston in particular had the valves sticking out pretty far, so there's just a touch of deformation at the edge of the piston valve recess. I'll clean up the carbon on the piston crowns then snap a pic? Would the bent valve's valve guides need replacement as well? Yeap, super sad I really don't know where I can get just the heads? It has to be EJ20Y specific too right. Most places will only sell the whole engine..? Changing new valves over etc. isn't too costly - just depends if i have to change the valve guides and if i need to get the valve seats cut - which according to boon - I won't need to? The head surface looks plenty clean - don't think I even need to do a skim.
  8. Hi all Engine's out on my wagon. Cambelt snapped at 50km/hr. Car's done 155k, cambelt done 77k - Japanese sticker in engine bay. No idea why 10 bent valves. A few things - Should I just replace all 16 valves? Would the valve guides generally be stuffed as well. New valves means that I'll need to cut new valve seats - do I have to do a light lapping between the new valves and freshly cut seats? Apart from valve seat cutting and light head skim - I can do everything myself. Just the cost of the parts suck. I've looked up the timing belt + associated bits. Bloody hell genuine (from partsouq) is expensive!!! Should I just get OE from Partmaster instead? My turbo inlet hosing has melted where the clamp is, probably explains my random boost surges as I'm sucking in unmetered air. - What should I do? Get an aftermarket one? Does anyone know which one will fit the Legacy GT? I love my subbie so much, so sad for this to happen. Oh well, after all this the engine will be near new with all new gaskets and o-rings etc. Any suggestions and sympathy will be great thanks Cheers Nicholas
  9. Heyo guys Anyone got an engine stand I can borrow for a month or two for a box of beers or something? Don't have space to keep one permanently. Or if you really want to sell yours, I may just buy it anyways? Cheers
  10. Champion. Does this look like a dead OCV, therefore I should pre-purchase a new OCV first considering the effort to get to it? Or just clean the filters in banjo bolts, take OCV out, clean with brakeleen or something and test it out again? Also, since the Exhaust VVT Left is super lazy compared to the Right, I don't actually know how well the VVT Right is doing. Should it be advancing up and down that much more than the Intake VVTs?
  11. Hi all, so I've been having a rough idling issue ever since I've got the car. Finally learnt about all the wonderful things you can monitor and log with a KKL cable and the BtSsm App. I've had countless help from Andy_Mac, as well as the folks over at After logging a number of parameters, my LEFT VVT Exhaust seems to be very "lazy". Always taking its time to get up to the required angle, and taking its time to drop back down. Whereas the RIGHT seems to be much more responsive to Load. We're talking up to 20 degree differences at times! My LEFT & RIGHT VVT Intakes seems to be doing fine. Check out a section of my log below: Anyhow, I've been told that my OCV could be the culprit. Now the folks over at LegacyGT do not get dual AVCS. Their 2.5L engine gets the AVCS on the intake only - so there's no DIY or any photos of where the Exhaust OCV is. Anyone here have had experience in changing/accessing the exhaust ones before? Will also look at the Banjo Bolt filters. Would rather get some knowledge before I start digging in my engine bay (I haven't even taken the engine covers off yet! ) Cheers Nicholas