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    • RAYDEO

      ClubSUB 2018 Calendar is now avilable!   24/09/17

      Click here for more info!
       
      The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.

      12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
      All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.

      A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!

      This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
      Also, if you are a subscribed member of ClubSUB, you will be in for a descent discount, so make sure you're logged in.

      Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.

snowflake009

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About snowflake009

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  • Drives :
    BP Legacy GT
  • Location
    Tauranga
  • Occupation
    I do stuff with wires

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  1. Cool there is too. I just assumed he was getting the one he linked
  2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transgo-5EATHD2-Transmission-Reprogramming-Kit-5EAT-05-07-/112316601195?fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item1a2697536b:g:Q0kAAOSwuxFYstuB&vxp=mtr Found this kit the other day. apparently it works the same or is the same as a hexmods modded valve body. Have you herd anything about them @Andy_Mac? How is the shifting compared to before he played around with it? Any better and are the shift points changed at all?
  3. Did you wire it for 4 or 8 ohms? Also how is the volume and sound?
  4. Is that a refresh of the Tcu? I didn't think the could be flashed. I have had the ecu flashed and I'd didn't change the shifts. I am worried how the trans will hold up hense why I'm not looking for massive power. But hey if it does pack in it will be a rebuild or replace. They are pretty common so no drama
  5. Thanks good info. I think I'll have to get some stuff priced up and see if I can do something with the trans to get it to work better
  6. Its not detonating like it was but they got to a certain point and it started to make the same noise as the one that let go so they dialed it back to make it safe(ish). So very low on power atm. Putting it down to high compression and a tired motor. They were suprised it lasted the weekend at Hampton downs. Correct me if I'm wrong but for example if this turbo is good for 240kw on a 2.0L will it not make that on a 2.5 but sooner and start to run out of puff higher in the rev range?
  7. That's good to know tho putting the turbo aside. If it doesn't do What I want I can always change it later on. I've done the mods so anything with a p25 flange will fit. What I'm after is good responsive street car that I can give an occasional thrash on the track (not competitively just a bit of fun) as far as I'm aware a 207 build will be a lot cheaper. A crate short block for around $2600. And the factory internals should be fine for my power goals. On the other hand I do miss the response and don't mind paying extra to get that or some of that back and I don't think the stock 207 will do it without going smaller turbo which defeats the purpose of the upgrade in the first place. As far as my options go I could do a stroked 207, destroked 257 or a 257. I'm guessing the 257 with a minimum of forged pistons will be the most cost effective considering what I'm after?
  8. Thanks some good info. Any power figures on the rally car for interests sake? The turbo ive got is a machined vf22 with p25 hot side so im hoping it will have a bit more top end than the standard vf. Does the p25 flow more than the p20 that comes factory on the 2.5 or is the difference negligible? Cool will let you know if I need any bits when I figure out what I'm doing 🤙 Yeah will give it a go. Got to load the free ssm onto the laptop and see if it works.
  9. Yea that's the one. By similar do you think the 2l will be better in peak numbers or will it be pretty even? I was leaning toward the 257 for better drivability and torque down low as most of my driving is around town.
  10. How is the torque in low rpm (before boost kicks in) with stroked ej207 vs standard ej207? I'm trying to decide what motor to replace my dying motor with in an auto bp5. Has slightly bigger turbo and the trans shifts too low when cruzing to keep it in its powerband so drives like crap unless I manual shift it. I'm leaning toward the 257 but open to options. Will also be using ej20x/y heads and aiming toward the 230 to 250kw mark. Cheers
  11. oh wow that is low power haha. would definitely recommend wiring up an aftermarket amp to the factory system for a lot more punch and a better sound . this can be done using a line level converter. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/speaker-high-level-to-line-level-converter/p/AA0482. connect the factory sub wires to this unit and rca output to the amp. the amp can be hidden under a seat and keep the sub in factory location for a stealth and clean set up.
  12. That sub is a dual 4ohm voice coil so it can be wired up at either 8 or 2 ohms. I would remove the factory sub and find out exactly how much room you have to play with and check the resistance of it to double check it is 4 ohms. With a low power factory amp you'll want to find a speaker with a high sensitivity or sbl. For example the one you linked is rated at SPL (dB @ 1w/1m):82. Thats 82db (volume out) 1w (power in) 1m (distance) https://www.abtec.co.nz/Polk_MM840 This has a higher sensitivity of 90db1w/1m so it should be louder with less power and it is 4 ohms. the only thing is that its 40mm deeper so unsure it will fit as i dont know how much room there is. There is a few other factors but these are the main ones. Hope it helps :))
  13. I got my hubs from BNT. not sure what brand they are but haven't had any problems. Done the rears about a year ago and the fronts about 2 months ago. +1 for removing abs sensor. also a block of wood will stop the mushrooming of the cv spline if your bashing it with a steel hammer.
  14. the only difference between the auto and manual is the turbo.... and the transmission of course lol Could the smaller turbo on the autos be creating enough back pressure to make them more det prone? They had a guy come in with a modified vf38 on his manual leggy that wasnt making power. lots of det etc. long story short. lots of back pressure. got new turbo. problem solved. apparently the torque converters lock up after a certain rpm so there shouldn't be slip?? As you say tho the internet has been wrong before lol. Im guessing as the gear ratios and final drive are different they will give a lower reading? im unfamiliar with dynos and if they can dial the ratio in to give a relative output. i believe the manual is 4.11 final drive and the auto is 3.58? As for my det problem having the cam timing out of sync will definitely be an issue. especially with the high compression motor relying in it to compensate. I dont know how much ill get after its fixed but it is what it is I guess. at the moment ill be happy to have her running mint. im starting to get tired of driving a sack of potatoes.
  15. air in your fluid will cause it to pour out the top like that. Any leaks?