snowflake009

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About snowflake009

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    BP Legacy GT
  • Location
    Tauranga
  • Occupation
    I do stuff with wires

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  1. Yea that's the one. By similar do you think the 2l will be better in peak numbers or will it be pretty even? I was leaning toward the 257 for better drivability and torque down low as most of my driving is around town.
  2. How is the torque in low rpm (before boost kicks in) with stroked ej207 vs standard ej207? I'm trying to decide what motor to replace my dying motor with in an auto bp5. Has slightly bigger turbo and the trans shifts too low when cruzing to keep it in its powerband so drives like crap unless I manual shift it. I'm leaning toward the 257 but open to options. Will also be using ej20x/y heads and aiming toward the 230 to 250kw mark. Cheers
  3. oh wow that is low power haha. would definitely recommend wiring up an aftermarket amp to the factory system for a lot more punch and a better sound . this can be done using a line level converter. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/speaker-high-level-to-line-level-converter/p/AA0482. connect the factory sub wires to this unit and rca output to the amp. the amp can be hidden under a seat and keep the sub in factory location for a stealth and clean set up.
  4. That sub is a dual 4ohm voice coil so it can be wired up at either 8 or 2 ohms. I would remove the factory sub and find out exactly how much room you have to play with and check the resistance of it to double check it is 4 ohms. With a low power factory amp you'll want to find a speaker with a high sensitivity or sbl. For example the one you linked is rated at SPL (dB @ 1w/1m):82. Thats 82db (volume out) 1w (power in) 1m (distance) https://www.abtec.co.nz/Polk_MM840 This has a higher sensitivity of 90db1w/1m so it should be louder with less power and it is 4 ohms. the only thing is that its 40mm deeper so unsure it will fit as i dont know how much room there is. There is a few other factors but these are the main ones. Hope it helps :))
  5. I got my hubs from BNT. not sure what brand they are but haven't had any problems. Done the rears about a year ago and the fronts about 2 months ago. +1 for removing abs sensor. also a block of wood will stop the mushrooming of the cv spline if your bashing it with a steel hammer.
  6. the only difference between the auto and manual is the turbo.... and the transmission of course lol Could the smaller turbo on the autos be creating enough back pressure to make them more det prone? They had a guy come in with a modified vf38 on his manual leggy that wasnt making power. lots of det etc. long story short. lots of back pressure. got new turbo. problem solved. apparently the torque converters lock up after a certain rpm so there shouldn't be slip?? As you say tho the internet has been wrong before lol. Im guessing as the gear ratios and final drive are different they will give a lower reading? im unfamiliar with dynos and if they can dial the ratio in to give a relative output. i believe the manual is 4.11 final drive and the auto is 3.58? As for my det problem having the cam timing out of sync will definitely be an issue. especially with the high compression motor relying in it to compensate. I dont know how much ill get after its fixed but it is what it is I guess. at the moment ill be happy to have her running mint. im starting to get tired of driving a sack of potatoes.
  7. air in your fluid will cause it to pour out the top like that. Any leaks?
  8. not much of an update but for those who are interested i run a can of some subaru engine cleaner through a couple of weeks ago. Before And After The camera isn't the best but you get the idea. The carbon build up wasn't too bad but the cleaner has definitely removed some.
  9. Thanks @Andy_Mac good to finally get some logs. Will get my battery replaced and alternator checked out after work. Will be getting new solenoids as well. Just curious if these issues would be causing detonation with the more aggressive tune?
  10. There was oil coming out of the exhaust cam sensors but never checked the intake ones. I removed the mesh that supplies the turbo and drivers side avcs (they tee from same supply) from the block but not on the solenoid itself. Will check it out and report back
  11. Just seen this thread! could very well be a possibility. Tho still haven't checked haha life sometimes gets the better of me. Will also check the filters on the intake cam solenoids. just had a bit of a look on the interwebs and guys have had similar dino plots to mine with that banjo filter stuck in their avcs solenoids. Hope is not lost just yet
  12. Not sure about the ecu. But there is some in the main connector in the engine bay.Will check tomorrow tho. Why you ask?
  13. No good! Still having same problem. Compression good. Timing spot on. Plugs good. Variable cams are working mint. Next step will be checking cams and valve springs. Possibly valves not seating properly or floating? New motor or rebuild? This is doing my head in!
  14. Sweet as give me a buzz tomorrow if your free. Thanks bro! Passengers exhaust
  15. Thanks. Will give them a call Monday If we could bro that would be great! I'm booked in for Wednesday so before then if your free. Got hold of a scope meter so can check your alternator curve if your still having issues with it